franklinstower

Contact member General Disorder (he is in Portland or the 'Couv, can't remember) - he has the info you need.

fyi - the factory service and parts manual can be downloaded here: http://http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

yes, buy a set of rings - the come with 3 rings per cyl - something like this: http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-LEGACY-OUTBACK-2-2L-PISTON-RINGS-EJ22E-/140480221571?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b5461183&vxp=mtr make sure you follow the factory service manual for the end gap spacing etc. You can find the service manual on the web in a pdf. The subaru part number for the ring set is: 12033AA210 (i just happen to have the parts manual sitting next to me!)

From the looks of those cylinders, I can bet your oil control rings are gummed up/frozen. Most likely that engine burns through some oil. Since your in this far, I would pull the pistons, (keep them matched to the bore they came from) clean the pistons & cylinders and put in a set of new rings. You can get NPR rings on fleabay for $40. Paul

i disagree on the roller rocker cams. I was at Delta last week with both the roller rocker cams and flat tappet cams. Ken said I was limited to a 200 grind on the roller rocker cam, but I could get the 220 grind on the flat tappet cam. The roller rocker cams are hardened and have a different profile, according to Delta. They have to grind them much slower and cost an extra $40 for the pair to grind. But regardless of the cost, he said using the flat tappet cam gives you a better profile. For your 2.5 block, I would stay away from the '96 block unless you want even higher compression. The '96 2.5 had a different piston shape with higher compression and was the only ph1 2.5 that required premium.

So it is correct that I can install the cam and roller rockers together as a set (from the '97) into the early heads with no problems. just don't mix and match the early to later cams and rockers? Is there any benefit to using the roller rockers & cams over the stock '92 cams and rockers?

One more question regarding my '98 ej25 block with '92 22 heads build: I had a collapsed HLA that wouldn't pump up (in a jar with oil), so I went to the PnP to get some new/used HLA's. There was a '97 wagon at the yard with an EJ22. That wagon had the (Obd2) single port exhaust heads on it with non adjustable roller rocker shafts - it had HLA's and roller rocker shafts? I thought all roller rocker shafts on the EJ22's had adjustable lash adjuster? I would assume those cams are designed to run the roller rockers and are not interchangeable with the cams from the Obd1 dual port heads. So is there any benefit in my Frankenmotor to run those cams with the HLA roller rockers from that '97 wagon in my '92 heads? Are the cam profiles the same between the two heads? Thanks, Paul

I got my cometic hybrid gaskets and now I am ready to put the heads on. The 2.2 headbolts are longer than the 2.5 head bolts. Use the 2.2 bolts? How much oil on the threads of the bolts, just a few drops or coat them good? Will too much oil on the bolts cause hydraulic locking and inaccurate torque specs? Since this will have higher cylinder pressure than a normal 2.2, should I use the torque specs of the EJ22T? Thanks, Paul

FYI - I also found this out: Phase 1 ej25 blocks had two ridges next to the "japan" by the #1 Cylinder, Phase 2 blocks have a single ridge at that location. Phase 2 - Single Ridge: Phase 1 - Double Ridge: These two blocks both are stamped W in the Vin on the side of the block. Good information for anyone else trying to ID whether they have an early Phase 2 or Phase 1 block. I assume since these were both out of 1998 Legacy outback wagons - the Phase 1 block has the early crank and the Phase 2 uses the updated crank. But they both have the the phase 1 pistons and heads. Paul

I would think going one colder on the heat range for a frankenmotor (ej25 ph1 block/EJ22 heads) would be beneficial by possibly reducing knock and therefore keep the ecu from pulling timing. I am basing this simply on the increased compression creates more combustion chamber heat and therefore a greater chance of pre-ignition from the longer Spark Plug insulator. Also more heat from the increased load due to this engine is going into my Westy. I can't find where this has been discussed. Any thoughts or input into that notion? Paul

I just found this on the Forester forum posted by Ferret: "The phase has to do with the crankshaft thrust bearing placement ( moved from center to rear ), changes to the internal oil passages, coolant passage shapes changed and 8 bolts between the transmission and the engine. It has been loosely thrown around that phase II was SOHC only. Not true. I have a Subaru Tech Reference manual that describes this in detail." As you state, it doesn't really matter to me, except for my own knowledge and the fact of it being a Ph1 or Ph2 block. I like the idea of the stronger internals too!

54 ph 2, 48 ph 1?

Pan is off, engine is on my bench, what exactly am I looking for?

Pan is off, engine is on my bench, what exactly am I looking for?

i read another post where Yamabond 4 IS 3bond 1215. As stated by 3m. Comes in 3 oz tubes at the yamaha dealer for under $10. 3M Ultra Pro 08672 is listed by Suby as an alternative along with Ultra Gray 499 (wholly thread revival!)