dennyt

I removed the power steering pump, got a shorter belt, drained the lines but left them in place on my '94 Loyale. 49,000 miles later it's still doing fine, feels great!. The shorter belts for my car, with A/C in place but P/S pump removed, are: Alternator belt 7420, AC belt 7365 One dark and stormy night, I felt the steering get light coming around a corner at a reasonably low speed. The beginnings of black ice. Wouldn't have felt that with P/S.

I bought the Rockauto y-pipe and midpipe and passed WA emissions no problems. The y-pipe didn't match up exactly to the rear hanger, it hangs pretty low and had to be forced up to bolt it in. But, it does seem to make more power (or at least more noise) than the old one I took off!

I installed these spring rubbers in my stock '94 loyale rear suspension, and they really help keep the rear end off the bump stops. They give the car about a 1" lift in the rear. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Coil-Over-Spring-Rubbers,3536.html P/N 917250-075 I also installed KYB GR2 shocks at the same time, they definitely stiffened the ride up.

'94 Loyale just rolled over 250k

Probably. I'm considering it.

Ooh, I like this idea the most. I noticed a raw fuel smell when starting, but thought it was a symptom not the cause of the misfire. Also, my fuel mileage went way down from 30 to 26. I was chalking it up to cold temps, snow tires, and driving fast to the mountains with a full load of people, aka Ski Season. http://www.fuelly.com/driver/dennyt/loyale

I have the KYB 233022 and 233023 GR-2 Struts on the front of my '94 Loyale Wagon, 4WD. They are about 1/2" shorter than the stock struts. I was in a rush and installed one at a time, and noticed the swaybar was a little hard to connect and the car pulled to one side I really like the handling over big bumps. You could also consider some spring rubbers such as: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Coil-Over-Spring-Rubbers,3536.html I have these in the rear and they give about a 1" lift and keep the car off the bump stops with a full load of people & camping gear. You could get the 5" diameter size for the fronts too if you want more ride height and stiffer springs for cheap.

Well, this problem seems to have gone away on its own. Maybe it's the temperatures in the upper 30's rather than upper 20's. Car starts and immediately runs smoothly. Huh.

Just replaced the timing belts and the PCV valve and hoses before this problem started. Cam timing is definitely right as it is making good power and running smoothly, except for the first 30 seconds after startup when it runs on 3 cylinders. Thanks for the tip on intake gaskets, I hadn't thought of that.

'94 Loyale SPFI with 249,000 miles on the original engine, located in Seattle, WA. A month ago I noticed some stumbling when starting the car first thing in the morning. Replaced the spark plugs and wires. Front left plug showed white flakey buildup, the rest are fine. Replacing plugs and wires didn't fix the problem, and now it's getting worse. The car is definitely running on 3 cylinders for about 30 seconds after I start it up after letting it sit for 4-8 hours. Today I finally drove it in the daylight and saw a puff of blue smoke in the rearview mirror when the 4th cylinder finally started firing. Once it starts firing, it runs like a champ. It's not burning enough oil to get me worried yet, but I guess I should start buying parts to fix this soon. So I'm guessing I have an internal head gasket oil leak or a bad valve stem seal, and it leaks oil into the cylinder while it sits parked. Any thoughts from the gurus out there? Thanks!

My '94 Loyale received its 248,000 mile upgrades: Replaced exhaust Y-pipe and mid-pipe with RockAuto parts to get rid of a heat shield rattle, which also gave me more power - stock cats must have been plugged up. Replaced rear wheel bearings Installed rear disk brakes from junkyard Installed polyurethane bushings on rear swingarms (saw thread on this forum) Installed new KYB GR2 shocks and struts all around. Found p/n's on this forum. Oddly enough, the front left was $7 and the front right was $50 on Amazon.com. Installed Spring Rubbers in rear to boost spring rate and keep the car off the bump stops when fully loaded. Resulted in about a 1" lift in the rear. P/N 917250-075 required some trimming and a hammer to fit in the stock coil springs. Replaced front tie rod ends and ball joints Replaced front right axle - the inner CV joint was cooked by the old cat Found the FR lower control arm bolt hole in the subframe was ovalized from hitting a curb. Loose and rattling & full of rusty water. Filled it with JB-weld, we'll see how that holds up Nice new Rain-X winter wiper blades, totally worth it after dealing with crappy blades forever Fixed oil smell in cabin by replacing cracked PCV hoses, PCV valve, and oil filler cap which was loose Replaced valve cover gaskets Fixed heater leak between A/C evaporator and heater core. Whenever the heater fan was on, cold air would blow out of the glove box area. Added a bunch of weatherstrip around the duct and re-fastened the duct clamp which was loose. Also patched up a duct hole a mouse had chewed through. Replaced timing belts (much easier without covers!), spark plugs, and wires Added weatherstripping to body side of all door seals and re-glued some door seals that had been torn off after freezing to the car. Applied a bunch of silicone spray to all of the seals. Lubed all locks and latches. Fixed driver's door rattle - missing rubber ring on door latch. Gorilla tape. New iphone holder for the dash and 2-foot right-angle aux cable, non-retractable. Listening to audiobooks on my commute rocks! LED dome light bulb and installed a hatch-area LED dome light this spring. Installed some awesome General Altimax Arctic snow tires! This is a lot of work for an old car, but I love it, because it's a better car now than when I bought it 115K miles ago. I'm still waiting for the clutch to go so I can install the dual range tranny and reseal the engine. Thanks to all who contribute to this forum - I wouldn't have done half of this work without the inspiration and technical details I find here!

My car used to do this ('94 Loyale SPFI). I fixed the low idle with the "sacred do not touch this" limit screw on the throttle body. I fixed the high idle by putting a restrictor plate in the IACV inlet line. I took a dime, drilled a 3/16" hole in it, and stuffed it in the 1/2" air line going into the valve. Now the IACV can't bump the idle up above 1100 no matter how hard it tries

1994 Loyale Wagon, EA82 5MT 235,000 miles on original engine, no rebuild. Summer Mileage 36-40MPG combined highway (75%) and city (25%) Winter Mileage 30-34MPG combined highway & city. Colder temps & heavier foot, going skiing 2-3 times per week so I'm driving faster to save time. Fuel log: http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-log.php?vehicleid=3436 Modifications: Removed power steering pump, drained & capped lines Removed clutching fan, installed second electric fan Installed kill switch on fuel injector for engine-off coasting Installed vacuum gauge, target 15 in.Hg cruise & 5 in.Hg acceleration Installed potentiometer across coolant temp sensor to trick the computer into closed-loop earlier Installed heated oxygen sensor (Bosch) for earlier closed-loop and proper functioning after engine-off coasting Installed block heater Removed A/C fuse so it doesn't come on when I hit the defrost button. Put the fuse back in the car in June Installed lower grill block, reducing air flow into the radiator Synthetic engine oil, transmission oil, diff oil, & wheel bearing grease Installed restrictor in Idle Air Control Valve inlet line to prevent 2000rpm idle surges. Now it idles at 750 and occasionally bumps up to 1000. Removed mudflaps I still want to make an undertray, I just have to find the time and fix these oil leaks first...

I removed the PS pump, got a shorter belt, drained the fluid from the rack, and capped the lines. Parallel parking requires two hands on the wheel, but otherwise it's awesome.

Right, the better way would be to back-flush it into a catch can, but I ran out of time. The reverse flow appears to have cleared it out for now. I'll do a proper flush when I have time, or when the snow is crap, which it's not now Also I read that the reverse flow is OK for EA82's but not EA81's because of the guts of the heater core.