Ionlyhave3suubs

My 97 Outback has been experiencing drivability issues and I have not been able to pinpoint the source of the problem. The car has about 250k on it now. It now has a 2.2 from a 97 Impreza Outback Sport with comparable mileage and questionable maintenance history. It has been around 20k miles since the swap and I am now experiencing drivability and power problems. For lack of better description, it is just severely down on power, to the point it doesn't seem like it would even make it up a steep hill any more. Recent repairs include fuel pump replacement after total failure and fuel filter replacement. The catalytic converter has been checked with a pressure gauge to check for blockage. It does not seem to have a "dead miss" or any type of miss for that matter. It is currently at my mechanic's shop and he is baffled. Normally I do my own work, but a recent injury has me catching up on so many other things I have not had the time to work on it myself. My son has been driving this car as his college car most recently. I am unaware of any events leading up to the poor performance. The symptoms seem as if either the engine is not getting the proper air/fuel mixture, or possibly the timing is being retarded for some reason when it should not be. I have also tried swapping out the airflow sensor with a known good one with no help in running condition. Anyone have any ideas on what else to check? The car ran ok for 20k after the swap (which I personally did) with no major issues..

Whatnow460-- I suggest you start a new thread for optimal results as your question involves a swapping a gen 2 legacy engine into a gen 3 body.

The DOHC 2.5 heads are significantly bulkier than the 2.2. The 2.2 will also have easier spark plug access in a tight engine compartment.

I have not disconnected the knock sensor or otherwise tampered with it. Are the 2.2 and 2.5 sensors interchangeable? it seems local parts suppliers list a different part number, and seems that the maybe the plug is different? Is it possible to splice the 2.2 connector onto the 2.5 knock sensor? I know at least the 2.5 sensor from my most recent swap is good. Right now I have more time than money to invest. If I can fix it with existing parts I already have, I would prefer to do that due to budget restrictions I currently have.

I have just completed my second 2.2 conversion. Both engines came from 97 model cars. The first swap was to put a 2.2 from a 97 legacy L into a 96 LSi. My most recent was to swap a 97 2.2 impreza outback engine into my 97 legacy outback. After both swaps I have a check engine light indicating "knock sensor". Both were 2.5 to 2.2 conversions. I find it odd that both engines might have came with a bad knock sensor. Is this common? Did I miss something that I needed to do on my swap to prevent the CEL? Both engines seem to run fine. I am sure there was no CEL on in the 97 Legacy outback before the swap.

That is very helpful. Does anyone know if the part # 031524000(1) is a snap-ring or something else? I don't remember removing one, but it has been quite a while since I took everything apart. That looks like what retains the shifter.

Still no answer. bump

Based on your picture, the shifter stick that extends into the cabin of the car is coming out of the socket in the lower rod. It is not the peg on the right of the photo that is the problem, rather its whatever holds the shifter stick into that socket on the lower rod. I need to know what holds the stick into that socket. Apparently all that is holding it in right now is gravity! thanks

I am wrapping up my 02 outback trans swap and the shifter has a slight problem. It doesn't want to stay down. It is like whatever retains the shifter in the linkage is not working right. Does anyone know of a link to an exploded view of the shifter assembly for a 02 outback 5spd? Either that or a description of how/what to do to keep the shifter in place. It wants to pop up when you shift the gears.

I took it for a test drive tonight. I was not disappointed in any way with the power of the 2.2 First time I have driven it in months. Sound like I have a bearing going bad in the rear, I am guessing wheel bearing. It is making a roaring sound, not horrible, but noticeable. Gonna start searching for how to threads on that next. If anyone knows where to find the best thread for that, let me know!

Davebugs, you had it right in post #5 It turns out I was putting all of my attention on the plug in connectors and did not re-check my ground connection. I did verify that they were all connected, however the one that connects on the top of the intake was only finger tight, causing a poor ground. I discovered it when I was disconnecting everything so I could swap the harnesses. Turns out the night I was working on that particular part of the install, I got a phone message that pulled me away from working on the car. I left with it only finger tight, and did not remember to tighten it with a wrench the next evening when I started again. Now I am curious how many people will loosen that ground and see if they get that same wierd symptom. Thanks again for all who helped with the troubleshoot! Next time I check connections and grounds, I will put a wrench to the grounds to verify tightness.

Next step, I have removed the harness from the 2.5 to try it out on the 2.2 The only difference I have noticed betwee them is the plug for the coil packs are different (slightly). The 2.5 plug will plug in to the 2.2 coil pack, and the pins line up, hopefully the wires do the same thing.

Ok, I have definitely ruled out alternator. Since my son is home, so is my 97 outback which has a reman by subaru alternator which was installed (under warranty-my local dealership warranties stuff like that if you have them replace it once, paid for replacement around 2000 or so). I tried the re-man that I know is in excellent condition and still same problem.

My son is home now and I asked him to describe in detail what happened the night the car broke down. He was driving down the interstate (around 55-60mph) with the cruise control on. The car acted like it came out of gear and revved high (he estimated between 5000 to 6000 rpm but wasn't sure) . He turned the cruise control off and the revving stopped. He coasted to the side of the interstate and stopped, at which point the engine had stopped too. He attempted to re-start the car and the starter wouldn't do anything. The only thing he remembers doing after the breakdown other than trying to start it was roll down the (power) windows. He was sitting in the car listening to the radio with the hazzard lights on when I came to pick up the car, which I winched up onto my car trailer and towed home. The 2.5 had been leaking oil like crazy before the break down, I bought the car with a bad head gasket, fixed the headgasket, didn't know about the oil separator plate and replaced the rear main seal (thought that was my oil leak source, live and learn). Needless to say after discovering this forum and doing some reading, I expected there was a high likelihood of a bottom end failure before long. Thus when I found the slightly wrecked 2.2 powered Legacy l, I scooped it up for a spare engine and parts. When I tried to start the car with the damaged 2.5 on the side of the interstate it sounded like a slight clunk, as if trying to engage on a locked up engine. When removing I discovered the engine would only turn about 3/4 of a turn. Possible explanations of what happened: Car came out of gear and revved high on compromised bearings from overheats from previous owner causing engine failure. (no explanation for electrical problems) Car struck by lightining (no storm that night, doesn't explain engine failure) Car zapped by UFO with some sort of anti-subaru ray, ok that would be an explanation, however plauseability leaves something to be desired. At this point I don't care about what happened unless it helps explain why my swap doesn't work

by air intake, I mean the plastic parts that attach to the filter housing beginning at the airflow sensor and ending at the throttle body I am starting to lean toward the idea of a relay problem. When first connecting the battery none of the warning lights in the dash are on. After trying to start, they come on and stay on, even after turning off the key and removng it. The only way to get them to turn off is by disconnecting the battery, which seems to re-set everything. I am somewhat of a novice when it comes to diagnosing electrical problems. I can sort of read a wiring diagram. I am not sure where to look for a relay that could cause my symptoms. I feel i should be testing for power at the coil pack, I am not sure which wire should be 12v+ at the coil pack. I have noticed the coil packs are different between the 2.5 and 2.2 My next step is to try the 2.2 alternator which was working properly when removed.

Sorry, I am having trouble using the "quote" function, so quoted text is in italics. My responses to the quotes are in green The following quotes (the part in italics only) are from davebugs SHould have left the 2.2 harness onthat engine when installed. That is exactly what I did. I was asking if that was wrong because now that there is an apparent electrical problem, I was second guessing because it does not work. You made this swap much harder than it is. I don't know how I made it hard, as far as I know, I did what everyone else does for this swap, but mine does not work. You simply install the complete 2.2 minus AC compressor and PS pump into the 2.5 body. That is exactly what I did. The only thing I think I did different than what everyone else is saying is initially I kept 2.2 air intake with the engine during the swap. That has now been changed, still not working. May have to play with EVAP lines, need to mess with ead breather hoses. I don't know what ead is. Alternator is up to you - I usuallyuse the 2.5. I am using the 2.5 alt. All belt driven accessories are from the 2.5 Some of those weird dash lights often hapen when alt is bad or going, but not all of them. Did anything happen to the electrical system? I thought the 2.5 just failed. As far as I know, the 2.5 failure was all that was happened My son was driving and I was not there, so I can't be for sure what else may have happened. I have not torn down the 2.5 yet to see what broke, but I have pulled the spark plugs from the passenger side of the 2.5 for curiosity sake and it is obvious something hit the electrode of the rear spark plug internally. My focus is trying get the car going again. Once again, if it helps, the body is a 96 LSi originally with a 2.5d AT Engine is 97 2.2 from a legacy l with AT

The fusible link and all fuses both under hood and in passenger compartment are intact. I tried unplugging the alternator plug and that did not make a difference.

Where is the fusible link?

The lights that stay on are battery ,brake, oil (flickers), at oil temp blinks rapidly. I discovered something else when checking on it tonight, the headlights will now turn on without the ignition key being in or turned on. I am assuming the ignitor is the electronic thing that attaches to the firewall just behind the engine if so, no I did not mess with that at all. Can someone answer the question of whether i should be using the 2.2 or 2.5 manifold wiring harness? currently using the 2.2 harness. The fuel lines are correct. I am definitely not getting spark (verified with spark tester) Battery shows to be fully charged when connected to tester. when cranking the engine, starter is spinning at full speed as it should.

I have triple checked those three main connectors by the bellhousing on the passenger side and they are fully engaged. When I did the swap, I left the 2.2 intake and wiring harness on the engine when I installed it. Should I have done something different? I have tried running it with both air intakes and both airflow sensors with the same results. I know there is a ground at the starter and one that bolts to the top of the intake on the passenger side. Is there another one I am missing?

I checked my connections, I could not find anything unplugged. I have diagnosed that I do not have spark. I tried swapping out to the other air intake and airflow sensor, no improvement. While cranking the engine over it did fire very breifly, one time. Still have the odd symptom of the blinking transmission light and the warning lights in the dash staying on after the key is turned off and removed from the ignition lock. I wonder, is there a possibility that the fact that the 2.5 came to a violent end could have effected something electronic causing this problem?

I have finished installing a 97 2.2 in my 96 Legacy LSi to replace the 2.5D that went kaput while my son was driving it. I am not sure why, but the 2.2 will not start. It cranks over fine, but does not seem to be firing. In addition, the trans light blinks rapidy when trying to start it, other dash lights flicker. After trying to start, dash lights stay on kinda flickering, even with the ignition turned off and key out of ignition. I tried disconnecting the battery and re-connecting. That turned off the dash lights until trying to start, then dash lights do the same thing. Summary of what was swapped: 2.5 engine removed complete, 2.2 installled complete. Discovered there was a difference in the flexplates during swap. Removed 2.5 flexplate from bad engine and installed on 2.2 to match 2.5 torque converter, which was re-used with original trans. All accessories from 2.5 stayed with car (a/c compressor, p/s pump, alt). Y-pipe assembly from 2.2 was swapped for original 2.5 y pipe due to the 2.5 being dual port and the 2.2 being single port. The 2.2 airbox was used for the swap, is connected to the 2.5 air filter box. Still has 2.5 airflow sensor (is that a potential problem)? As far as I can tell, everything is plugged in that should be. The 2.2 ran before the swap. It came from a car that was a minor front end collision wreck that only did cosmetic damage to the hood, right fender and bumper skin. The car that the 2.2 came from was an automatic (has egr) recipient vehicle is also automatic (with egr). I know lots of forum members have done this swap, this is my first one. I have never seen the dash light symptoms like this before. Anyone have any idea what is wrong?

My first question is I am about to pull the 2.5 dohc engine from my 96 LSi auto. I have taken everything loose except for 1 torque converter bolt, which I cannot get to because the engine will not turn a full rotation (something is broken inside the engine and will not allow a full rotation, not even with a breaker bar with pipe extention). Is there a problem with pulling the engine with the converter still attached? Is it important to re-use the Lsi converter or will the converter from the 2.2 legacy L swap in ok? I guess that is two questions. Any help would be appreciated. Donor car is a 97 Legacy L 2.2 automatic (wreck, mostly complete)

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If you end up repairing the 2.5, make sure to use genuine subaru headgaskets. I highly recommend having the heads re-surfaced. Do your homework and call several machine shops. the first one I called wanted close to $100 just to resurface the heads, the shop that I went with only charged $30.