Adam N.D.J.

Also, new cars don't do this because they are fuel injection. The computer systems that monitors everything takes into account engine RPM, airflow and vacume, it will notice that the car is in hard decel and adjust for this. Also a lot of cars actually kill the fuel injectors on hard decel so that there is no fuel in the cylinders during ignition, and there for no fuel will enter the exhaust. They do this to save cat-converts more than anything.

If you grab and EA82 D/r 5spd, then it will virtually bolt in with very little mods. The only problem that I see is if you have the 25 spline axles in it now, and the D/r has the 23 splines. Other than that it is pretty much just plug and pray. The case of the FT and D/r tranny are pretty much the same externally.

Here ya go, check out these pics, they are Rallyjusty's, he has an EA82 powerplant and drivetrain, custom front suspension. He hasn't updated his page in a long time, and haven't seen him online for quite a while, so no idea where it's at now, but the older pics are quite impressive. http://home.comcast.net/~rallyjusty/

So what we're saying is that the tranny that I want would indeed be something special to own. I like that idea, cause it does have to be pretty special to be in my car. That and I like to do things different.

You remove the stub shafts, then you remove the sideplates, and walk the carrier out. Not too much to it. You do need the T10 inverted deep 1/4 socket though to get the stubs out.

Hey everyone, was wondering about sumpin. Has anyone ever seen or hear of a D/r FT4WD 3.90:1 5spd?? Jes wonding, cause I've decided that this is what the 84 Turbo should have in it. Nothing else will really do for me.

I wasn't ready for the show this year, had way too much stuff to work on. Next year is looking pretty good, should hopefully have all my projects done by then (cough cough, ya right). Looks like it was a lot of fun, really diggin the site that it was at. The grass last year was pretty, but that mud looked like fun this year. I'll see bout seein everyone next year though. Keep the pics rollin in though.

He doesn't get on the board very much, if at all anymore. I do a lot of work with him though. And if you want to get in touch with him, I can give him your email or phone # or sumpin so that he can get a hold of you. Ya, his car is pretty impressive, a lot of work into that beast!

It's a 2 cylinder 2 cycle (2 stroke). You can get em up to 60ish, although usually down here. 55 is about all they will do.

Judging by the picture I would say you have a Gen II wagon. They didn't have that switch back then Trog. I would first use the test light to make sure that you are getting power to BOTH sides of the fuses. One can look good, but actually be bad. If the fuses are ohkay, then follow it on to the lighting swith, make sure you have power going in and out of there. If that is ohkay, check the lighting relay (If applicable). Some years have these to power up all the exterior lights. But knowing your year will help me out, I can get a better idea of which system we're working with. Lotsa luck.

Are you haveing a water loss issue? Does the exhaust have a sweet smell to it? And is the water alittle darker than normal? You are tossing aside one of the big Subaru overheating root causes.... someone over heated it in the past and popped a headgasket or two. Personally I would use a block tester on it to check for signs of HC's in the coolant. A compression check isn't always going to turn up a problem. I've had a number of rigs that ran just fine, but just plain overheated. Checked for HC's in the coolant and bingo. This is including my ER27 thats in my Brat, had popped HG's when I got it. Overheated like nothing I've seen before, ran perfect though. And the cooling system was all new, to include a jeep 4.0HO radiator. Guess what I'm rambling at, unless you know for dead certain that the HG's are pristine (like you just changed them recently), then I would at least check it out.

I've been down to the stealership, and checked one out. Call me crazy, but I actually like the way that they look. It's different. When I first saw one on the street, from a distance, I immeditally knew exactly what it was. So it's a got a couple things that actually appeal to me. The uglyness (could that be put on the insurence as theft detirrent system?), I've got a soft spot for ugly mugs (anyone that has seen my Brat will know what I mean). And the gadgets!! Wow, c'mon, how many other rigs out there have a rear diff over temp light!!! If I had the cash to buy a new car, I would definatly get one.

Can't tell without looking at the hot side wheel. You can definatly tell the difference between an 81 and 82 turbo when they are side by side, the hot side on the EA82's is bigger. But that is definatly one of the two, cold side is too small to be a Legacy turbo.

Funny, I did a heater core/ac condenser on a 99 ford expedition.. wrote "Laugh, it could be worse" inside the box before I put it back together. It's a mechanic thing, one way of making each others life a little more pleasant. I've run into a good number of stuff like that. Like a 2.8 chevy that had an arrow and "this one knocks" engraved on the crank counterwieght pointing to the #4 rod journal, laughed for a while cause it was #2 that was knocking!

Depends on whether I'm going forward or reverse as to the rotation of the front driveshaft. Off the top of my head, I don't remember, but if you crawl under your soob, and look at the direction that the driveline turns when you go forward, that is the same direction that the front one turns. There is no reversing of the rotation on the outputs of the transfere case on the Nissan, as with any T-case that I know of. Your looking for 81-84. Almost as bad as looking of an EA81T, almost. Those are the optimial years for useage of parts on a Soob. After that they started going with other things, like the Offset diff/equal length axles that have an axle tube on one side of the diff.

I would have say that my all time wheeling theme would have to be Kid Rocks Hillbilly Stomp. Beginning of it goes like this: The rednect originator rollin' in my pickup, Truck jacked up with the fourgold shocks , And where i could from, mud flaps come stock. That and it's a pretty good song, not slow like most of those other ones, and when I'm wheelin, it ain't very slow (unless I'm in .25 gear).

As far as the mounts go, you can take the EA81 mount and bolt it to the rear hole of the ER27's mount bracket and that will work fine.

Is this going to be a lifted rig, or stock height? Thats makes a bit of difference. I've got my motor sitting in the stock height location of a lifted rig, it's definatly a snug fit. You will need to clearence the frame a rails some towards the rear, cause the motor is alot wider than the stock one. As far as the wireing goes, it is best to get the whole harness from a donor car along with the motor and computer. The computer is located under the rear deck, so thats why you want to whole thing. Then just follow the plugs from the computer and cut off anything that isn't connected. Then with a good wireing diagram you can start omitting stuff that isn't need for the computer (like the controls for the electronic power steering.) Connect power and ground the system, run the wires to where you want to computer to be located. Then you will need to new fuel pump, this is FI, so you need high pressure. I reccomend running a new supply line, the old supply line will work for the return. You can get creative on your own for the cooling. I made a new front end for my Brat, so I just pushed it out a few inches, and put the radiator up front, some have put the rad on top of the motor, or you could put it in the bed, but that requires a lot of plumbing. Here's a pic of my setup: Lots of luck to ya, and when ya get it done, it will be tonnes of fun!!

ya, the front output of the Nissan T-case is reversed, all of us with rear diff for from diffs now know this. It's a matter of lubrication what it come to positioning a diff, as long as all the bearings get lubed, it should work fine.

They do have NA auto Brats, got one sitting in my backyard, an 83, full GL package. You can tell from the VIN if it is, or was, a turbo.

Happy B-day Zap. Good to have ya around. I've got my 6th as a registar this month. Gonna celibrate by taking the Brat out and getting it muddy!

If I can manage to get off the base for a time, then I will be there. It's just that this seems to be getting more and more Washington oriented. I mean the big state for the logo is just a tad much. Heck, we've got almost as many people from Oregon, and the name is West Coast, that covers quite a bit of area.

Woo hoo.. I can't wait to go to the Washington, Central Subaru Show.....

I'm not sure if I can make it this year or not. I'll only be about 40 miles away during the show (Ft. Lewis). And if I do show up, it'll prolly be in my HMMWV and only for a little while. Depends on if I can sneak off for a while or not. We'll see. I'll have a better idea of whats going on a little closer to then.

I've used 6 penny framing nails, and cotter pins both on my axles with no problems at all. Works just fine. That pin isn't a load bearing item, only thing it does is keep the cup from sliding off the stub. Now if you have your suspension improperly set up, then it is possible that you could shear off the cotter pin, but more than likely you would hyper-extend the joint first. (Done that a lot). Thats all SOOBME ran on his wagon, as well as a few others round here.