Adam N.D.J.

The sensor for the guage, (if it's a digi), is in the heater hose, you will see a metal connector with wires coming out of it. Thats not gonna be the problem. The one for the computer is in the T-stat housing, thats your ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. The ecu uses that one for warm up idle and whot not. Just curious, do you warm your car up in the morning with the defrost on? Sounds like you are. When the climate control is in defrost mode it will cycle the A/c system to dry out the air. When the ECU see's this signal it bumps up the idle to account for the load of the A/c pump. Now if you don't have the A/c system working, then it won't shut down from this. To see if this might be the problem then just switch the controls to heat, or just turn the blower off completely, if it drops back down to normal idle, thats your prob.

What has happened here is that the rubber has broken away from the mount. With the part that Mick show'd ya you can fix this problem. You haven't driven it like this have you? Can be very scary if you have, cause lotsa vibration and pretty much feel like the whole front it is going to fall out, (basically has already). I kinda find it a little funny though, cause the same thing happened to my Brat a couple weeks ago on it's last weelin trip.

Hey ya, I"m gonne be headin up on the mountain on Saturday more than likely. Not sure how early though. Will prolly be takin the turbo up there to do some rally action. But the camp gear is going up in the 4rnr. Hey mike, you got mikes cell number?

Hi all. Welp, after months of down time, lotsa time in the engine, the procrastination of getting everything put together. I can proudly say that there is another EA81T back on the road again. Mine started back in January when she started puking oil and smoke out the exhaust. Took the motor apart, then started, in my spare time, to rebuild it. Finally got it rebuilt in August, then working a little on the weekend and when I got a spare moment started putting it in. On of the problems with a project spread out over such a long period of time is that you loose stuff. Welp, finally got everything I needed yesterday, and today, I've been driving her all over the place. It's so nice to drive her again. The power!!! Way better than my carb'd auto Brat thats been the daily driver for the past many months. Now all thats left is to pull the motor on the 80 and get it cleaned up and resealed as well as the carb rebuilt and I will have all 5 up and running!!!

Awe, cmon!! What if the only way to get to my tree fort is up a narrow little trail on the side of a mountain that only a Subaru can get to!!! All seriousness aside though, welcome aboard sheppie.

Ya, taking them off will be just fine. I do that alot, specially when they get gunked up real bad with offroad goop. As was previously said though, don't put em back on that way.

Check your air flow meter. Sounds like your running in limp home mode. It will do this. I had the very same problem a few months ago, and it turned out that the signal wire from the MAF was broken at the connector, so the computer didn't get any signal at all from it. Also, check your trouble codes, they will help you out most of the time.

Hey Rick, lemme know what you are looking for. We've got em coming out of the woods down here, me and the rest of the Roo's usually turn up a new rig every couple of weeks for pretty much dirt cheap. And if you've got a couple hundred bucks you could even drive one home. Most of the rigs that we get down here are a couple Benji's and usually don't run, (My 83 Brat $100, just needed a motor), for less than 500 bucks though you can usually get a good runnin rig. Medford isn't too far of a drive from where your at, so jes hit me with what ya want and I'll put me ear to the ground, should stir sumpin up in a week or two.

I agree, someone really needs to learn how to draw up some flames, here are two pics that I got done drawing up, if someone wants to make them up as a stickers that cool with me (maybe send me one?? ) What ya think?

The auto is different than the manuals. It's weaker. Where the manual you can actually drive on dry stuff and just get a lot of binding, the auto will actually shear the rear output pin in the auto. This happened to my Turbo, but it wasn't even pavement, it was a dry dirt road I was on, rally'n on. Didn't even feel it break or notice a difference. Found it out when I was checking out a noise on the 4 poster and had it running in gear in 4wd and there was no output to the rear, I the front tires spinning I could grab the prop shaft and spin it by hand. I have yet to actually get the tranny out, but when I do I be sure to take a bunch of pictures of the problem, and hopefully come up with a fix for it.

Welp, went wheelin today, was going to take the real offroader, but it decided not to play today and tossed a wheel bearing. So rather than ditch the plans to go out with the crew, loaded up the 83 and headed into the mountains. I do have to say that on the mild stuff the auto is pretty nice. Was actually kind of a relaxing ride, specially on the twisty's. But, when we got into some pretty heavy stuff, the infamous slushbox reared it's ugly head, the tranny slipped way too much to actually make it up serious obstacles, and the transfere clutch for the rear output slipped pretty bad too, couple of times I was only spinnin one front tire. Good thing I got a 5spd laying here waiting to go in there. Sure will be nice when I can put all that power to the ground. On a side note, it's been a long time since I've wheeled a stock Roo, and it sure is a completely different character than the monster that is the 82!! So, in short, if you've got an auto in your rig, and want to really wheel it, swap it out for a manual, you'll have a much better time. Nothing sux more than getting stuck on some piddly little obstacle!

Check out this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22918 The "triangle thing" they are talking about there is the adjuster, You have to crawl under the Brat, there isn't an acess hole in them, then right above the diff on the torsion houseing (large round tube running left to right), there is a bolt ON TOP of the triangle, that's the torsion adjuster.

I do have to believe you are talking about the adjuster plate on the torsion housing. As seen here: If everything is working right in your rear end, and aligned properly then the U-joint shouldn't be hitting it, unless you are running non-stock applications. The diff doesn't move, so the driveline shouldn't either (other than rotating movement). And I would have to say no, you can't cut that off, it is integral to the torsion bars, and do believe cutting it out would mess up the locking tab that holds them in place.

One thing that kinda sux bout the auto is that the lockup clutch for the 4wd is real easy to break, it's like a little tiny pin that makes it all work. And if someone was to drive it around on the pavement with it in 4wd it'll shear that pin like hang on!! This happened to my 84's tranny, so no 4wd Haven't sat down long enough to see about a way to fix it. BTW this is also why you can't just put an Auto in 4wd and drive it in RWD when you blow and axle/front diff.

No, power to both sides is good, it means that power is flowing through the coil, as it's suppose to. I would do as stated above, and check to see if you have a pulse when you put the test light on the neg side of the coil. If it doesn't pulse then check the distibutor, thats a pre-87 so it's going to have a standard pickup coil and module in it, and the modules tend to go out after a while..

OHkay, since the cat is gone, that is going to be one of your biggest problems. Your prolly going to need one to get it to pass! You could play around with the injection, and vacume hoses, but by the time you get it down to passing levels it's gong to run so bad it'll fall all over it's self during the test. So the cat is the better way to go, and can only be temporary. Also, is the radiator in there the factory? Or has it been replaced? If it hasn't, then do that, 20 years tends to cause a lot of build up in the rad, and the EA81 rad is very efficient one, I had the stock radiator in my Brat supporting the 2.7L for quite a while with no problems. And when I first got my Turbo, it would over heat bad, till I replaced the rad, you can still get new units for em. Good to see that car made it to someone that will take care of her.

I know the feeling, been there before! It seems like a lot of work, but when done, it's well worth it.

Royal Purple, this stuff is awsome, makes Mobil 1 look like Pennzoil. There are a good number of the race car guys here that run it, and have dyno graphs to show, my buddy got 4hp increase swithing from regular to Mobil 1 then he got 12hp increase switching up Royal Purple, so a total of 16hp from the engine oil. Then there is the tranny and diff fluid, he gained another 20Hp to the wheels by changing out the gear lube in the running gear. I run it in the turbo and in the Brat, and HP increase is way noticable, that, and it's PURPLE!!!

This is definatly one of my favorite pics of my Gen I: And this one of my Gen II is one of my fav's:

Mine are started and sitting in the shed right now, didn't get them done this summer though, had too much other stuff going on, will be done by next summer though. Maybe sooner, who needs sleep any ways.

I may have to break down and start fabricating again. (Been away from doing that for a while now, too many other things going on in life). But in order to get the turbo (oh, the power baby, THE POWER!!), I guess I can do without a little more sleep.

Ya, thats the same setup that I have, pics are close, but off a couple inches, I need the bracket that bolts to the top of the bellhousing and holds then end of the cable right before it goes to the throttle body. I dug up another one just now, but it's way too different, I dunno what happened to mine, and didn't realize Soobs had so many different setups.

Hey guys, need a little help here, I seems to have lost my throttle linkage mounting plate, and I'm not even sure whot exactly I'm looking for, the ones that I've found so far aren't the right ones. If someone can get me a pic of one it would help out so much. I've got the cruise unit that sits above the tranny on mine if that makes a difference, thanks alot.

Yeah, the Crustacean(sp?) is one wicked rig, but there isn't much left of it that is suzuki besides the engine and drivetrain. It's not only got the rear wheel steer, but the full steering is hydrolic, it's got front and rear lockers, full tube chassis, onboard air, and no creature comforts, pure rock crawler. But seeing it in person is definatly kewl (the Trail Tough shop is right down the road from my house). Af far as the dual wheel thing though, ain't that hard to do, just gotta make up a spacer to go between the inside wheel and the outside one, and wah lah. Shouldn't take too long to do. Either way you guys have fun with your stone age madness, some of us with shear technolust are moving forward with our suspensions.

The rear output shaft on the Soob tranny is pretty strong, but the problem is that the rear is actuated by a clutch just like a regular gear, the 4spd tends to be pretty weak, I shredded a rear output syncro with stock 4wd components, 29" tires, and a warmed over 1.8L Then with the 6cylinder I shredded a high range syncro pulling out of my carport for the first test run with the new motor. I switch over to a dual range 5spd and haven't had one problem yet. The tranny is always in 4wd, feeding into the Nissan T-case. I have been into some really nasty situation where's I have completely blown up rear axles and the trans didn't even notice, I've done a 5K clutch drop, pulling the front tires off the ground, and the tranny was happy as a clam. If you want some more pictures for research here are all mine on my rig, it's basically the same setup as Subaru Brat except I have a smaller lift and went a little different direction on some things. http://usmb.net/gallery/albun96