Adam N.D.J.

Oh man, that is some SERIOUSLY goopy SH%*!! I've run into mud like that before, it just builds up on your tire untill the wheels wells are stuffed full, then ALL the suspension gets full, and stuff starts breaking. That is definatly a situation where bald tires are the way to go, if the there is no tread to fill with mud, then you don't get the build up. WOW. Glad to hear everyone made it out ohkay.

Not a whole that that will boost low end power. You could put a smaller turbo on there (EA81T), this will make boost at a lower rpm, thus giving you a better low end. You could also go with a higher compression block, high compression motors have more low end power than low compression/forced induction set-ups. Also look into different cam grinds. One of the things you can do right away is open up the exhaust, I'd go at least a 2" downpipe (I'm running 2.5" on mine). Also open up the air box, take out the whole thing, and cut the whole bottom off of it so that the whole filter element is visable. For the most part, wheeling a turbo'd motor is kinda not the best thing, they can be a bit unweildy, if your in and tight twisty area, and the wheels start slippin, then the turbo starts boostin, next thing you know the wheels are spinnin way too fast and BOOM, there goes a rear diff stub. This is from personal experience, while out wheelin, one of the Rogues (Soobme) in his 85 T-wagon, blew out a rear stub with almost no effort from the wheels slippin, and the engine boostin at almost the most in-opportune time. If it was me, I would get an SPFI block, NA MPFI heads, keep the fuel injection, toss the turbo and run an NA motor with a nice torque ground cam.

SO whot your saying is that the stub in the tranny came out? If so, then you broke the C-clip that holds it in there, and you will have to pull apart the tranny to fix it. Or, but this is a maybe, cause I don't think the 5spd d/r's had circlips on the stubs, but if your lucky, they do, then all you have to do is push it back in untill it "clicks" into place. But pull it out and look at it, if it has a wire like round clip set into the groove in the end of the stub, your in luck if not, either get a new tranny, or learn to rebuild one.

Hey Russ, when are you going to come pick up your sunroof?! Hehehe, seriously though, I have a complete EA82 power sunroof laying in my shed right now, yours for the one time only, low low price of 25 bucks, plus a drive to Medford, no way I'm shipping this pig. PM me if your interested.

I can feel your pain, and know exactly how it is. I had the same problem a few years ago, #3 rod decided that it didn't want to hang out in it's hole anymore, and went for some fresh air!!! Here's the pic that I got of mine,

no dice on the cruise stuff. Guess it's time for this car to go to the crusher, I went over her, NOTHING LEFT!!

Sounds like Holy Hell. In a way I wished I coulda been there, I coulda helped a little, but at the same time, too far of a drive for me, specially if I broke sumpin. Glad to hear everyone is alright though.

I may have the cruise stuff you need, will check the car in a little while.

My fulltime tranny is almost that far apart now. What really kewl is that I know exactly how the center diff works and everything. It's really kewl to know that the difflock is a mechanical connection with the vacume canister drving a cable, do I can just put a cable into the vehicle it's going in to actuate it!

No doubt they work good. I had a chance to really put mine to the test last night. Was on my way home, doin about 35, this car pulls out in front of me, and I just layed into the brake pedal, both feet mashed on it. The rear end locked up so hard that it wore two huge flat spots in the tires. But I stopped in like 10 feet, thats with 29" tires, and over 3000Lbs of truck, and since the rears where doing most the braking she didn't nose dive. Bad part was the flat spots though, seriously bad vibrations the rest of the way home. But I roasted off the rears when I did get home, and rounded the tires back out again. So they run good now.

Nope, nothing. I have a hole in my shifter boot, and can see the front prop shafts rear U-joint from the drivers seat, no rotation coming outa the tranny when in this reverse.

You can do it, you'll just need to plug the hole so that you don't lose a bunch of tranny oil. I found that most spray paint can caps fit perfectly into there, Just make sure to put a little duck tape over and around there to make sure the cap doesn't come out.

Hmm, let me take a shot here, a 91 loyal computer. Seriously though. Have you checked your outputs? Namely injector pulse, as it starts with starting fluid I think your spark is alright. If you aren't getting injector pulse, you might want to check the computer. If it's got a fried transistor inside it, it won't switch the injector. If memory serves me correctly, the injector is powered all the time, so one side of the plug should have 12v when the key is on, the other side should be ground. So useing a high resistance check light, put one end to the + the other to the side of the injector plug without the 12v's (yeah yeah, I know, duh, but this is for other people that don't know how to do this also). then crank the motor and see if the test light pulses, if not, then you've got your problem in the computer. However if you do have a pulse you'll have to dig further, cause technically it has everything it needs, fuel and fire, I'm thinking timing and compression are going to be ohkay. So check your fuel pressure, check it with and without the return line clamped off, with the return clamped, it should hit over 60psi, without it clamped, should be around 25-30 without the engine running. Lemme know what you come up with, and whot not, if'n your still havein probs, we'll get this figured out. As a tech I know how important it is to ship vehicles in order to get paid.

I've never torn apart an XT's doors, so I don't know much about their power windows, but by your saying "cable" I'm going to say they are different. Cause the GL-10's (which I've torn quite a few apart), have gears that run the regulator off the motor. But don't take my word for gospel.

The gear oil is full, and less than a year old (filled it up when I put the tranny in there last June). The shifter boot doesn't bind up or anything. The shifter goes in like it's suppose to, feels like I'm in reverse, just when I let the clutch out it doesn't move. Hmm.

We took the 89 3-door by the scales today, was kinda surprised, only came in at 2400Lbs. Not too shabby! Makes my wonder about the 84 Hardtop, that should be even lighter than the 3dr!

Okay, lotsa tranny topics lately. Here's whot I'm dealing with. Phantom reverse: 86 RX 5spd D/r Tranny: When I start the Brat up in the morning, If I immediatly shift into reverse nothing happens when I let the clutch out, I can shift it in and out, many time, and still nothing, even if I cycle through all gears (which all work), it still won't go reverse. Now if I start it up, go inside and wait for it to warm up (listen for the high idle to drop down). Then go out, hop in and throw it into reverse it immediatly works. Only when it's cold will it not hit reverse. And it seems like it goes where it's suppose to too. But when warm, no problems. I've check the exterior linkage, no probs there. I don't want to break into the tranny (although don't think it's internal as it only does it when it's cold). I think that i've seen this mentioned before, but wanted an actual thread on it, specially if anyone else has/had this problem, and if had, whot did you do to fix it (and don't say sell it). Never experienced this with a 4spd before, or the wifes 5spd 2WD. Also the FT tranny works normal too.

All EA8* series engine and tranny's will swap between each other, same bellhousing on them all. This also includes the ER27, which is just an EA82 with 2 more cylinders. It can be put into an 86 Brat without too much trouble. You can find these tranny's in late 80's EA82's, mostly GL-10's and Turbo cars. The RX got a D/r version of this tranny. To fit it you will need make up trans mounts, or make a new trans x-member. You will also need to either have the stoock driveline made longer, or make the mounts and use an EA82 driveline. If you make the mounts for the EA82 one though, it's the right length. There is some debate on the clutch stuff, and I'm not too up to speed on that, so someone else will need to fill in.

Yeah, I rebuilt my 4spd D/r in my manual trannies class, it was pretty fun. This post was also the motivation that I needed. I now know EXACTLY how a FT4WD tranny works!!!! Yep, I taking apart a FT4WD so that I can swap the stubs so it can be used in an EA81. I don't like the idea of getting custom axles made cause if one breaks, then you run into the problem of haveing to have a new one made to replace it. There are some things that I would just rather have off the shelf.

Wanted to see whot some of the other guys with the "super"-lifts are pushing for weight, specially you Scott. I took the Brat through some scales a little while back, and was kinda shocked at how much she's weighin. I weighed her with a half tank of gas (6ish gallons), me (185Lbs), all my trail tools (75Lbs), and other misc. rump roast. junk filling the passenger side. Came out to an amazing 3300 POUNDS!!! Talk about packing on the pounds. The ER27, 5spd D/r, T-case, extra diff, full frame, roll bar, front and rear bumpers, they've added a whopping 900 pounds from when it was just a EA81, 4spd D/r, 4" lift! Subaru Brat has twice as much lift, and way bigger tires, so I'm rather interested in whot he's pushing, as well as Rooinator, and John's Hatch. Untill I see the others numbers, so far I think I'm the heaviest Gen II so far. Pushing New Gen numbers as far as weight. On a side note, the ER27 is one serious power plant, even at 1 1/2 tons she still gets up and goes better than any other 4cylinder powered soob I've driven from the same era, that counting the suped up EA81 that used to be in there. I'm going to the drag strip sometime in the next couple of weeks so then I'll get some real numbers. As a reference she ran mid 18's stock. I'm guessing mid 16's now. But that will have to wait till my slicks get in.

Ohkay, now lets see you put it back together. Hehehehe. Looks almost exactly the same as a 4spd D/r, with the exception of the two gears at the very back of the shafts (5th gear sets).

For those wondering about block placement and whot not, here is a handy little pic. it shows the main blocks, and how to lay out the supports (HIGHLY reccomended for anything over 4"s). Basically your bolting in a block where ever there is a bolt going into the body between the subframes and the body. *note, in the pic, there are two block missing, the inners on the radius rod plates. Also this is for EA81 vehicles, I haven't drawn up an EA82 yet. Sorry. Heheh, would help if there was a link. http://usmb.net/gallery/assorted/lift

31mm Tube?! is that OD or ID? If it is ID then whot thickness should one use? Where exactly does one get this stuff? How bout something just off the shelf?

So, is that one of those chinese take out wives? Whot are the issues that need to be worked out, shipping? Go for the over night air if thats the case, they tend to get there unharmed that way. Also steer clear of UPS, they do some bad things.

Looks good, I was actually thinking that over today for mine. Do you have manual steering or power? Cause I've got manual, and going down the road at freeway speeds, every little hole and pebble in the road feels monsterous!