Adam N.D.J.

Nice, good to see the front end isn't nekid anymore. I also like the rear diff hanger, the one piece ones are a lot better than the multi-piece one that I had made.

Forget the woman standing next to it, did you guys actually READ the ad??!! It's at least XX, if not XXX!! Some people call me crazy for comparing my Soobs to women, HA, little do they know that Subaru actually started it!!

Welp, jes wanna get everyone together, have't seen all the rigs in one place in a while, and definatly want to see whot the CP boys have gotten done to their beast. Also want to talk a bit on the upcoming events, and whot not, some other stuff. Lemme know where we want to meet at, and if'n there are any objections.

Check it out, one of the biggest reasons HF is so cool. HF Stuff Yeah, when I have kids, they are gonna be driving Subaru Go-Karts.

You suck =P (they need a smilie sticking out his tounge). Those are some sweet rims. Germany you say, Hmm, I might have to take another trip back there and see whot I can find. I should be able to stuff 4 or 5 rims in a duffle back, right?!

uh, that page looks a lot like it did like 2 years ago. Me thinking it hasn't been updated lately.

I've got a midly built 2.7L H6 running into a 5spd D/r outa an 86 RX, have had no problems with it, shifts smooth through all gears, regardless of throttle or rpm. And this is turning a 30" tire.

This says it all.

Round here we say TEH-IN, but there are so many ways to say it, as long as you flash them green (gold or platinum?!) I don't think they really care how you pronounce it.

remove all the bolts and screws from the rear of the case, this will help it to pull off. You are most likely hung up on the brushes, they tend to wear grooves into their runs. So if you pull all the stuff off the back, the whole VR assembly and stuff should come out still attached, and if you replaceing it anyways, why not.

You'd be surprised, jes ask Bugaru, and the General. Hehe. I do realize a little one day event isn't going to attract too much attention. SO keep watching this page, big 4 day even in a month and a half!

Look at your two main power wires, follow them back, the one that bolts to the back of the starter is the pos, the one that bolts to the mounting ear of the starter at the bellhousing is Neg. And unless things have been messed with, A should be the Neg. Connector B goes to the alternator, the round piece goes to the main power post, and the plug into the back. Connector C is for the A/c compressor. Off hand I can't think of whot A is for, may not even be used on your vehicle. You should make sure the Alternator is hooked up before the battery, and definatly before you turn on the power in the car, as that main wire going to it will arc, and fry your battery. Lotsa luck.

Prolly the vacume canister for the cruise control. If you follow one of the lines it should go to the intake, with an inline check valve, and the other one should go up to the cruise control unit on the passenger side up by the strut tower. This holds vacume so that the cruise unit can accelerate the car (like going up a hill), even when under boost. Without it, when the cruise unit goes to accelerate, the boost actually pushed the diaphram the other way, making the car decel, mine came up missing when I pulled the engine last time, and now have this problem.

SO, whot all need to be done with the axle issue here?? The FT's have the bigger axles, and they won't fit into the vehicle. So I would either have to have new axles made, or ??? One thing that I have been thinking of, is the diameter of the front stubs the same between the FT and the D/r 4wd tranny's?? If so I could swap the stubs from one to the other. Of course that means that there would be a Turbo only d/r 5spd floating around. So when I get done with this, would anyone be interested in the 5spd?

No doubt one of the holy Mecca trips for the Subaru Enthusiast. I had the luxury of going there back in 99, great tour to go on, specially if you have someone read the Japanese for ya. Lotsa good info too. And they have my RX, I fell in love with that car on first sight. Unfortunatly I couldn't figure out how to sneak it out of a crowded building. Hmph, someday, someday I'll get that car!

RIGHT LEFT It is pretty snuggly in there, but the big silicone filled moster mounts keep it in line, that may also have to do a bit with the fact that I have about an inch of preload on each mount from putting the bottom holes for em further in on the engine crossmember. I've revved the engine hard and it doesn't hit the frame, the body rolls to the side a little, but doesn't hit the frame. You can actually do the ER-27 swap, and Tcase mod WITHOUT ANY lift AT ALL in the front.

Hey Brat, one of the greatest offerings of the T-case mod is the run of gears that you have. Then next is the fact that you can do some serious crawling. But back to number 1. You can get a set of 4.444 diffs to put in there, that would effectivly lower the final gear ratio, would be good with 33's.

You have to have like and engineer stamp (or sumpin like that) on stuff like that over on the other side of the lake.

I have Autozone LL warranty axles in the Brat. I've tossed 3 since I got the two new ones, and they've honor'd them with no problems. Then again, I used to work at the two zones down here, and know all the managers real well and whot not. But one of the axles I took in didn't even have the outer "cup" one it, as it was still holding the wheel on, and they still didn't have a problem with it. But only breaking 3 axles in two years, with whot the axles in the Brat go through isn't that bad if you look at it, plus heck, they're liftime warranty. Of course I think mine are reman'd, and not the "new" ones, so I can't say much about those.

You don't have to worry about the master cylinder. Do take out the hill holder though. Then go to the parts store and find a T that fits the threads on the brakeline connections, as well as a couple lenths of brake line (about 6" will do). You jes need to pull out the HH, then use the new brakelines and T to move the front line (coming out of the master), out of the way, as that is the only one that really has clearence issues. You will also need to use an "adjustment tool" on the frame rails to slightly "adjust" them for a good fit. I beat mine down about 3/4's of an inch on each side, and can barely slide a butter knife between the camcover and rails. As far as the wireing, wotch out for that ignitor on the coilbracket, they are kinda testy, and hard to find a replacement for, (I live in a very Soobie rich area, and they are hard to find for me). Lotsa luck, keep us posted, and if you have questions, feel free to PM me anytime.

Mmmm, pretty. I need to get off my butt and get my body work done so I can start paintin!

Stickers are going kinda slow, the first try didn't look good at all, I have to get a program that can "vector" lines, so that it'll look alright.

Dang, should be the Trogdor Board, whew, if anyone was workin on boostin their post count, he sure is!

I did move, about 30 miles further south, and whoa boy whot a difference it makes. Already got 7 people in the Rogue's, with more showing interest. If'n your going to be at the WCSS, then you'll get to see her in action. But anyways, back on topic... Here are some pictures from the 2001 (the first) Easter run. This is actually when I first tried to get the Rogue Roo's up and going, you can see the Jolly Roger on the back of the white 85 Sedan. Anyways, here's the pics