Adam N.D.J.

You didn't get stuck. Just delayed. Stuck is when you have to walk 15 miles into town in the dark just to find a phone to call a buddy to come out and save you. And you know your really stuck when the wheeling trip started out with 5 rigs, and they're all stuck now after trying to get you out.

Welp, I went out wheelin on Sunday at the local ORV park, had a blast. Spent most time in RWD though, stuff there is just too easy. But the mud was plentiful and gooey. Anyways, I'm on my way home, and I'm hearing this click-click-click, sounds just like a front axle getting ready to go by-by. Didn't surprise me, cause I was doing some 4wd doughnuts, and had most of the suspension submerged in the ponds for some time. So I'm thinking I put too much stress on one of the axles, and there was water in it. And I'm RWD on the pavement, so there's no real way for me to see if the axle is really dead or not, so I just drive it home. Well today was nice and sunny so I decide to go pull the axle so I can go exchange it (lifetime warranty, gotta love it). As I'm under there the nice new axles still look new, no holes or tears, nothing. And they are both solid. So hmm, I look around, all over the front end, then I check my front driveline. The bolts holding the flange to the diff, there were only 3, and they were barely holding on to a thread. So I take em off, put on new lock washers, some lock tight, replace the missing one, and take it for a drive, the "axle" noise was gone. So the moral of the story is, drivline noise can sound like an axle noise, if it sounds like you've got an axle going, check your DL bolts.

Should have no problem. Soobme has an NA d/r 5speed bolted to a turbo motor, and I have the same tranny bolted to my 2.7L 6 with no problems there either. The 5spd's are pretty stout units, and I have had nothing but problems with all my auto vehicles of the EA Gen's.

If your going to make a new fuel rail, would be best to just go a step further, and allow the mounting of new injectors, mainly like a standard bosch top feed injector. That way you can go out and pick what ever size you want, there would no longer be the limitation of stock ones. And it really wouldn't take much more fabrication. I have thought long and hard on this for the EA81T (same fuel rail problem). Mine was mainly because of the integrated FPR, if that thing goes out (20 yo car, bound to happen soon) I would be SOL. As for the RRFPR that I mounted on mine, I just plumbed it into the return line, the stock FPR works, but as the boost goes up, the RRFPR increases the fuel pressure in the upper regions. Your RRFPR has 3 lines? Mine only has 2 fuel lines, and the one vacume attachment, it goes into the return line, as the boost goes up, the FPR closes off the return more and more, increasing the pressure. But I hear ya on the mess of lines everywhere.

Definate good score. Didn't John Muir write the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive book? That would be why they mention Soob's alot.

Yup, pretty sure they'll fit. I've got my front axles hooked into a rear diff, so don't see why the rear axles wouldn't hook into a tranny.

So are you looking for sumpin like this? This is kind of an over the top one, it's got all the color and stuff so it looks good in like a sig'n stuff. But for like decals, it can actually be B&W and still look good. Lemme know what ya think.

Sounds good to me, I'm in! Mmmm, new tires! Oh yeah, hey Tony, doin anything next weekend, (like workin on brushguards and stuff??), cause I got some Toooob bendin to do, hehehe

I know the sounds your talking about. I've heard it on 3 different vehicles. It's kinda like a constant honking noise, but not the horn. I've had it happen on all Auto cars, never in manuals. And if I turn the engine off (key off), then back on again, it goes away for a considerable amount of time. I was thinking it was the AT's pump going out.

Motel!! No way, I couldn't let ya spend the money on some place to stay. The couch is all yours, and trust me, it's nice, I've logged a few hours on it, and it's plenty confy.

Depends a lot on the area your in. Me personally, I know where 3 motors are at in one wrecking yard, 2 more in another yard, and yet another one in another yard. Plus there are at least 5 full cars from 600-1400 in the area. I paid 500 for a complete engine, wireing harness, and computer for mine. So it depends a lot on the area.

Ohkay, I'll be gone the same weekend as Sean, but the rest of the month looks good. I should have some new tires on the front end by next month too (ooh, traction!). C'mon up, we'll go play in the snow, and you can check out the new house (even rack out on my couch if'n ya want).

Sounds like piston slap. Specially since it goes away after 15 minutes. Both my EA82 and ER27 both "knock" for the first 10-15 minutes too. What happens is the aluminum piston in the steel sleeve of the cylinder, will be smaller than when it is warm. So when it's cold the piston is basically banging around in the cylinder, as the engine warms up, the pistons expand, and it goes away. It'll be fine as long as you let the engine just idle untill warm. I wouldn't rev it at all till the noise stops.

Ya know, sometimes pistons are SO overrated. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2979863195&category=1467 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26437&item=2454593923 And for 200 bucks, I could really put this one to use: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2981132496&category=2983

So let me get this straigh, you have an EJ motor bolted to an EA tranny??? Cause that what it looks like from the pictures, but I want to make absolute sure here before I go out an spend the money on an SVX motor and computer! Hehehehehe 3.3L Brat anyone!!!!

Actually as far as headgaskets go, OHC motors are more likely to blow one out cause of the force of the belt(s) pulling down on one side of the motor, there is a large amount of moving mass sitting on the head, plus most OHC motors use head bolts, which are suppose to be replaced everytime you do a hg. The OHV motors have less forces being exerted on the head, there is a very minimal amount of moving parts located on the head, and there are head studs. If you want to counter the head bolt/stud debate, go out, and remove your exhaust studs from one side and replace them with bolts, drive around for a week. I am neither for nor against either OHV or OHC, each is a little better in some aspects than others. I have two of each, and have built many of both. As for the revving debate, I have an EA81 sitting in storage right now that revved out to 10K with no problem, thats as high as I knew it would go because thats all the higher my tach went up to. I never floated the valves in it. My old 427 would float the valves at 7.5 on the other hand. But thats another story. If I put the same amount of work into an EA82 that I put into that EA81, I'm pretty sure it could exceed speeds of 15K. The only problem with that is, if I did that to an EA82, the cruise rpm would prolly be about 6-10K, good stuff if your running Indy, but not the best thing for the freeway. Also you would prolly not be able to drop it under 3K without it stalling. Where as my EA81, I could drop it well below 1K and not have it die, I had it so low in rpms at one time that my tack sat on 0 and you could hear each cylinder fireing, with 4 other people witnessing it. As for this overly huge OHV/C debate, it's rather worthless. Automakers go with engine designs that are currently common. I've built a 400 SBC that didn't have valves or a camshaft, rather it had special heads that contained a camshaft like device with round "lobes" in it with notches in it. As the engine turned, it turned this cam, and for the intake stroke the notches in the "lobes" lined up with either the intake port, and so on for the exhaust. If you've ever heard a SBC turn over 8K it's definatly a sound you will never forget. These are the way to go, rotary valves:

There was strippage, and the strippage was good!!

I think that you would prolly be a lot happier doing the ralley thing. If you go to the show car route, you'll be so broke it's won't be funny. The bad thing about any Subaru before like 98 is that there is virtually no aftermarket support. You would have to make 99% of everything from scratch (which is why I like Soobs so much), or have a specialty shop make the part you need for you. All I can really say is that if you don't have a tonne of money to blow, and some way wicked fabrication skills, you'd be much happier going to ralley. In the ralley scene some good tires is about all you really need to get down with it.

I'm pretty sure that the Bosch filters I use on all my EA/R vehicles have an ADV in them. I could be wrong, and don't have one off a vehicle right now. But I can tell you that I don't have any ticking coming for the OHC engines, and only a minor bit from the OHV's lifters, but I don't think it's related to the filter. The ER had ticking issues before the bosch, but at the time time I changed the filter, I flushed out the lube system, so it could have been one or the other or both.

No way, we're going to go 14"s!!! yeah! with like 36x12.50-16.5's!! yeah! And like stuff one of those chopper motors in there, with like 4 transfer cases, and all HMMWV drivetrain!! Oh yeah, and another ladder! and lights, lotsa lights like 15 airplane landing lights!!!! Oh yeah!!!

A BUCK AND YOU DROVE IT HOME!!?? YOU SUCK!! Hehe, jes kidding, good score. Seems like all the free cars are coming out of the woodwork here, but they don't run. Guess my next one I need to pull out a dollar, that will be the diving line between running and not! Now remember, don't have too much fun in that 10hp beast!

So does it have to be able to ROLL when we get done with it?? Cause I just realized that there is a A LOT more there that I could put to a good use.

When I first start the Brat in the morning it runs at over 2K for about 5-10 minutes (depending on the temp outside). Then drops down to about 1K-1.2K for another 10-15 minutes, or untill I drive it for a couple blocks, when it drops down to 800. Does your drop down to normal at anytime? or does it stay around 1200 all the time? If it's all the time, check the computer for a code, best place to start.

Robs right, they are about 4 inches square, I don't have a tape measure right now though, so I couldn't be exact. For those that have never seen em before, you can see em in this picture: There is one on the far left, you can see a little of it, the one just to the left of the diff, and the one on the far right (the T on the tire is pointing at it.) They attach to the torsion tube on the EA81's, but I have seen em on 4WD EA82's too.

Wanted to find out if you were going to be home on Friday for a good old fashin wagon strippin. I think I've come up with a pretty good list of stuff that I would like to get off it. Also wanted to put this on the board so that if any of the other guys wanted/can come over and help they can. Bek's got Fri off so she'll prolly be over there too. Oh yeah, got a Soob dropped into my lap too. Freebie, zip, zilch, nada!! An EA82 Wagon, 5spd d/r, some good body parts. Not too sure when I'm going to be getting it though.