Adam N.D.J.

I've got a few submissions for the calendar. Here we go. My 80 Brat Puddle Jumpin Offroad Overlook And if Tony is alright witht he submission, as it is his rig, but the picture is from my collection, good "tire hang picture" Soobme's Wagon

Most people when they go for a ride with me expect the Brat to drive like any other big 4WD, but it doesn't. It's very stable, very manuvuerable, and handles like a dream. It's a little stiff in the rear with the coil overs, but not bad. I hear ya on the take off. Mine is a little more so cause it's RWD on the street, I think that if I actually had tires with some real on road grip I could prolly pull the front tires off the ground. But for now, it's just breaking both the rear tires loose. Breaking isn't a problem even with 30's if you have rear disc's. Also the big 6 helps a lot with the high compression, good for engine breaking (not to be confused with engine breaking). Good to see it's up and running good enough for some good distance trips. You got all the computer issues worked out??

Not really too much too it. You just remove your intake side housing and impellar from the EA82 turbo unit. Then you take the same matching pars from the Legacy unit and bolt it into your turbo. You get the larger compressor of the Legacy, but don't have to worry about making a new up-pipe or chaning flanges or anything. Plus you can push a little more boost than before, without changing the spool rate too much. Mind you it will change some, but not drastically. I've heard that you need to keep an eye out about some sorta offset, but I'm not sure of that, I'll talk to the guys that do it alot next week and get the details.

Actually it is an inbred, cause it's a combination of the same family members. A hybrid uses parts from different family's.

This is true, the center section is the same from the EA82's and the Legacy. This is whot makes the inbred so easy to make. You just swap the cold side from a Leg turbo unit to your turbo unit and you'll have a larger compressor without having to change the size of the exhaust turbine. But Before I start to get off topic. Yes this is the right one for you.

Hey Caleb, how much you willing to pay for info on the location of the UltimateRX???? I'm sure someone here can cough it up for the right price, a car like that doesn't just disappear into thin air, it's out there somewhere.

Mine normally runs between 110 and 120. I wouldn't think that you would be running hot with that monster radiator you've got, unless you suspect a problem.

I don't think that he is going to have to worry about the turbo x-member if he's doing whot I think he's doing. :-\

When you turn on the defrost, the A/c system comes on cause the A/c system collects the moisture on the evaporator, (this is why you see water coming from cars during the summer time). If your idle up solenoid isn't working right (vacume controlled diaghram near the carby) then it will drop down a bit. Check your other post, I think I got this one covered.

It should go to a solenoid that is then plumbed into the intake somewhere. Look for a solenoid with only one line running to it from the intake, and an open port on it. This is prolly why you are dropping R's when you turn on the defroster (or A/c, i.e. your other post). The solenoid valves are usually green for this purpose, and have a two wire connector going to them, and two vacume lines (or suppose to have two vacume lines). There is a possiblity that someone may have removed the solenoid, so if you can't find one, look for a two wire connector that isn't connected to anything on or near the motor. Lotsa luck. edit: Ohkay, I've been looking through some of my books, and I think I have the solenoid narrowed down, I think, I'm used to workin on EA81's, the EA82 may be different. But check your passenger side strut tower, between it and the firewall there should be the solenoids, two of them, along with some vacume hoses going to them, one of them will control the idle up for the A/c system. If no one has it by tomarrow I'll dig through my EA82 and see if I can find the exact one that does it (I have an 85 4wd with with A/c so it should be near the same place as yours, when I find it.)

Whots wrong with the 4spd TO bearing? Before I got my 5spd I had a D/r 4spd bolted up to the ER27, and the TO worked ohkay with it. The fork would move back a lot further from the pressure plate than needed, prolly about an inch between the bottom of it's throw to where it contacted the PP fingers. The ER27 flywheel is a light weight replacement for the EA82's, so that may be a better route, if thats whot kinda thing you want, you may need to modify the bellhousing though, not really sure on that. I would reccomend getting a new clutch cable along with the install, as the first time I stepped on my clutch with the bigger one in there, it snapped. Lotsa luck, let us know how it turns out.

I've only had SPFI up to about 95, wouldn't go much higher than that on a straight flat. Coming off a pretty good size hill on the freeway I got it up a little over a hundred. I think a good EA82T with 3.70's should prolly hit 120 pretty easily, anything after that though I dunno. .

Ohkay, I know it's way early, but this is a really big weekend, it marks the beginning of the warm season in Oregon, and there are going to be a lot of people out there. Every year me and my crew make a trip out to the coast for the whole weekend, we leave either early on Friday, or mid-Day on Thursday, my preference being Thurs. I'm putting out this invite now because I'm going to be making the reservations for the campsite(s) in January, and I want to get a pretty good idea of how many people are going to be going. This especially goes for the Rogue Roo's, but I'll be talking to all of you this weekend, and anytime from there, but this is more or less aimed at the Hatch Patrol and Oregon Off-Road Subaru's. We currently have about 6 rigs in the RR's, and most group sites have a minimum of 10 rigs. But I'm thinking that if we can get enough rigs coming, I will go ahead and get a 20 or 25 rig site, that would allow for about 7 rigs per group. It would be awsome to thave the major Subaru groups of the West coast meeting together for one run, granted we down here are still infants as a group (my Southern Oregon Off-road Subaru's died in the late 90's and was too long of a name anyways). But I still consider us a major group as we've only been active for less than a month now and already have almost 10 rigs. Anyways, I'm testing the waters here. John's group should definatly be in, as it's only like an hour's drive for them to the coast, the RR's are looking at about 2-2 1/2 hours drive, you guys up in Washington would have the long haul, but I still think it would be worth it. I'm going to be paying for this with my re-enlistment bonus that I should be getting in January sometime, I'm not asking anyone to put in any cash for the site, but donations will be gladly accepted. Lemme know what ya'll think.

Ohkay Dokey, who's got a free seat for the trip, I'm gonna be a ride along, camcorder in hand! The Brats gonna be down till the first of the year, I've got the studs on the clutch plate diggin into the flywheel, and don't want to mess up the flywheel too much more than it already is. Either way, I'm gonna be in a Soob, with other Subahoics, so it don't matter too much if I'm in my own rig or not, AAAHHH, I can't believe it's only Tuesday!!!

I've used a wire coat hanger that I put a hook on one end and fished it in there and got ahold of the latch and opened it that way. Took a few tries to get it, thats why they call it fishin in there. Once you get it open you can attach the wire to the hook and leave it there until you get the latch or cable replaced.

Alrighty, wake you up on friday morning, works for me. I'll prolly stay over in Medford on Thurs night, and get over to your place when I wake up in the morning (prolly round 8 or 9ish). See ya all there.

Really kewl. Thanks for showin us the good find. I only wish they had the manuals or an appendix on the ER27. Oh well.

I'm ready. I've come to the conclusion that I will at least make it to your place Tony, I can go as a ride-a-long with someone if all else fails. I'll make sure to bring the camcorder along. Four more days, I don't know if I can take it!!!

This could be really bad for you. I was running my auto in 4wd without a front axle. It did that just before it stopped driving at all. I hear that there is a little pin that locks in the rear end, and that that can cause some problems. I would get some front axles in it, and soon, before the rear output breaks like mine did. You can prolly find my post not too far back, it was like Sat or Sun of last week.

Hey Tom, you think that's fast, wait till you get it in a rig thats way lighter, like the Brat! You got yourself a sweet score, I was out 500 bucks with all my gettin stuffs (motor, ecu, harness, little nickel and dime stuff). Just like Scott said, pull the entire harness out of the car first, don't cut a single thing, then when you have the whole thing out, start pulling the computer harness from the rest of the body wireing. There will be lotsa wires from the computer harness that are integrated into the body harness, your goal here is to make sure you have all the wires from the motor to the computer intact. There should be about 70 wires, although some of them are non-essential, (like the P/s control wire, A/c controls, cruise), but keep them anyways, makes things easy to trouble shoot. Also keep that coil bracket in a very very very safe place, the ignition amplifier on it is very important, this caused me some problems, and Scott too if I remember correctly. You've got the parts there for a 5 lug swap, or is that part of the deal with Miles? either way, some good stuff. Kinda hate to see a good running XT-6 go like that, but it is definatly a good cause. 3 GL-6 Brats will make it a kewl world.

Now you know what I'm working with on the Brat, 4 lows and 4 highs, I've been wanting to do the conversion on mine, but wasn't sure that had the kit for the duel rounds, I'm gonna need to get a JC catalog and 4 Silverstars!!!!

Welp, I'm still in a bit of a pickle. I'm hopeing that I can come up with some cash before next weekend. As it is right now, I had to drain the gas in the Brat so that I could keep the coupe going. Although I will be out there, I dunno whot I'm bringing yet. Oh yeah, for the permit, make sure that you have the VIN of the vehicle your getting it for with you. I know most of you have your rigs as daily drivers so it prolly ain't much of a problem. Jes makin sure though.

Cotter pins work just fine, specially in the rear. They make it easier to swap an axle in or out. Just whot we down here. Soobme's been runnin his like that for a while now without any problems.

Whot's the outside temps like? You have to factor in the fresh air intake from the blower houseing. If the outside air is like 20, and the heater is at 120, then the air coming out of the vent's is going to be a lot lower. I pulled the vacume controls that hold open the fresh air openeing to the blower housing on my car, and welded it shut on the Brat (it's another place for water to come in). Without the colder air feedin the heater, then the air will get warmer and warmer untill it's good an hot in the car. I'm used to workin on EA81 cars, and not sure how the blower is set up on the EA82's, but I imagine it's not that different.

Who do I know that might be crazy enough to do this? Hmm, I dunno anyone round here. And they don't have Baja's down in the southern Hemisphere. Least I've never heard tell of them. Last I heard they were a US marketed vehicle, like the XT-6. And a Turbo Baja?? I didn't think they hit the market till later next year, or did someone do some sort of conversion. Can I talk to this person, they must have deep pockets, and I could use some change for (cough cough), coffee.