Adam N.D.J.

The stock fuel pump is good for about 80psi, (least the one in the Brat is, it's off an EA82T). So thats good there. As for putting in an adjustable FPR, that isn't a problem either. Just grab a JEGG's, J.C. Whitney, Summit or racing supply mag of your choice and look for an FI adjustable FPR, they can be had for as little as 10 buck. Then your take your shiney new FPR and plumb it into your existing lines on the RETURN hose. Remove the vacume line from the stock unit (which is built into the fuel rail anyways, not much you can do with it without any work), and plug in the new FPR. The other one will over ride the stock one. Since the restriction is downstream of the old FPR the new one will work the way you want it. I've done this for many years on many different rigs, this is how I'm pushing 12psi into an EA81T without any problems. And if you spend the cash and get a Rising Rate one, you won't have to worry about the rich idle syndrome that I've got right now. The stock injectors will handle 80psi without any problems, least on mine none of the hoses burst or anything. If your going to go much higher than that though, I would build a new fuel rail and use injectors that don't have the rubber hose connection. Also make sure you don't have one of those el' cheapo plastic fuel filters (like from autozone), get a good quality all metal one (I got mine from napa). I had a plastic one, and at 45psi the entire end of it burst, really really bad thing.

Ohkay, I read through the Parks Dept. web page, and permits ARE REQUIRED to run in the John's Peak OHV complex. I think that we all prolly fall well under the max 99Db sound level for our vehicles, as even without a muffler Soobs are still quieter than that. (The dunes requires vehicles to be less than 93Db). On a side note, a lot of the area's require permits to run. As for our trouble last weekend, I'm going to get a key to the ponds later this month, or early next month, as they will be good and sloppy by Jan, and they are trying to set it up so that you need a permit on the vehicle in the ponds, ain't nothing really though. Also the McGrew Trail System that I want to run next summer also requires a permit. So shell out that 10 bucks and get one on the back of your rig. Rogue Roo's requirement is that the permit be places near the model designation badge on the right rear of the vehicle, This is so that we all have em in the same place that way there are no mistakes when the Ranger comes around, last thing we want is to be hassled by the Fuzz when we'd rather be wheeling. I'm also going to be getting some decals made up before the Dunes trip so that everyone knows who we are. And for a heads up, way in the advance, (I'm going to write an official post closer to the date) Memorial weekend is the 28th-31st, I am going to be putting in the reservations for the campsite in Feb cause they fill up pretty fast after that. Prolly going to be set up for 10-15 rigs, so that if the HP or OORSA want to come down they'll have places with us. Ohkay, gonna go now, been long winded enough already. (Who's idea was it to put the military guy in charge anyways?)

So what kinda trip are we gonna go on? Some tight technical rutty stuff? Or bombing through the woods rallye stuffs? Depending on whot we're gonna get into will decide which rig I'm going to be bringing out there. Cause John's Peak has an OHV park, If'n we're going to go there you'll prolly need a permit, Class II permits usually run about 10-11 bucks depending on where you go. I've already got one, as they are required on the dune (have I said that already?), If'n you need one, you can go to Backbird or G.I. Joe's, they sell em there. I would get one now so that you don't have to track one down on Memorial Day weekend for the annual dunes trip (most places in Oregon are sold out of permits that weekend).

The exhaust going INTO and OUT of the the turbo can limit the amount boost your getting. Check your crossover pipe, when I first got my car the center of the pipe was free of the outer sections, so I could grab the center and move it by hand, but it was held in there enough that it wouldn't fall out. Then go for the cat, which I'm going to say is the problem here because it's been slowely going down, and cats slowely plug up. I took the cat off mine, the difference was night and day. Now I've got a 2.5" downpipe into a 2" turbo II muffler, sounds great, awsome throttle response, and I don't have any more noticable spool time with the larger turbo. Lotsa luck to ya, hope everything ya get it all figured out.

Ohkay so the four wires is not counting the dizzy wires. Hmm. I must be getting old or sumpin cause I can't remember which is the nippo unit and which is the hitachi. The ones that I worked with had the magnetic pickups in it, not the ones with the little black boxes and the "do not remove" plastic cover, I hated working with them, half the time the controle module in them was bad anyways. It's been a while now, but I think I might be able to track down one or two of the cars I converted, and see how exactly I did it. It's funny, you get into computer controled distributors, and it's like the older information is moved out to make room for the new stuff. But anyways, I'll get it figured out on what I've done and get back to ya with it. As for the resistor, the electronic doesn't need it, no need to drop the voltage, which is all it does, so the points don't burn up.

Yes, if you disconnect the O2 or have a faulty one for tha matter, the computer will run in a default mode (won't go into closed loop), and you will run really rich. I'm having this problem with my Brat right now cause I haven't put a place in the exhaust to even put an O2 so I don't have one in there. When I accelerate, huge clouds of thick black smoke are produced, and I have crap for gas mileage (less than 10 mpg)

Yeah they do have there own page, here ya go http://www.stratus2000.homestead.com/

Kewl, Friday works for me, I found out I don't have to be in untill Sat. morning, so I got all day on Friday. Now whot kinda run are we gonna be doin? Cause we've got a lot of stockers runnin with us, (not that thats a problem). Still don't know if I can have the Brat operational by then or not, we'll see what I can pull outa my @$$.

Yeah, how many honda owners would go home and pull and axle out of a car and bring it to you if you didn't have one in your car and couldn't go anywhere??!! (Thanks Tony!). And everyone I've met are great. I mean, on a will and whim me n the wife drove like 500 miles one way to go stay at a house of a person that we had only met for fleeting moments in the past. I figure that as long as I've known you all here on the board, I could trust my hands in driving clear to Connecticut to stay with Paul for a night or two without any problems. We aren't just a bunch of people on the internet, we are a world wide community, but we treat each other as if we all live in the same town on the same side of the street. It's great, you don't see that very often nowadays, specially on the internet.

Most of my cars when I put the motor back in, from the 70's up to 90's auto's and manuals, the motor mounts usually require a little persuasion to pop into the holes in the belly pan. Doesn't seem outa place to me. If'n you have to do a lot of serious work to get the studs in place, then I would say something is wrong. But for the most part, the rubber isn't exactly perfect with the holes, so there will be a little "popping them into place".

I have found that if you tighten the pivot bolt first, (that has a nut on the other end of it), you are less likely to strip out the threads in the aluminum of the alternator housing. Most people that tighten the adjusting nut first tend to wrench the crap out of it, and strip it. I've had to drill out whot was left of the threads and put a nut on the backside of the bolt many a times on my rigs cause of this.

I've already got one on the Brat. as they are required on the Oregon Dunes. But I have some bad news. I'm locked in for drill on the 22nd and 23rd. Gotta be there. I'm starting to think I shoulda waited another 2 weeks to re-up, but I wanted to get that nice bonus. I can however come over to your place in the evening when I get done at the armory. I should be done around 6ish with any luck.

You can run a wire from your hot wire at the fuel pump to an LED in the dash, then the other lead on the LED to ground, when power is being supplied to the wire on the pump, then the LED will be lit. Just remember that the long wire on the LED is positive, and if wired backwards won't work. As far as the dimmer goes, LED production of light varies with the amount of voltage supplied to them, so a 12v LED will produce less light at 6volts then at 12volts. Since the dimmer works by varying the amount of voltage to the dash lights, they should still work just fine.

I've got a loaner front axle in there now, so it's drivable. I'm not too worried about 4wd, and will prolly just wait till I have a manual in there before I have it again. If you still have that T-clutch in a year or so when I put this tranny to use in a different application, then I'll get it from you then. But as for the auto in the 84, It's gonna go by-by when I get my re-enlistment bonus in the next month or so.

I have no money to do any swaps, this is my daily driver! :banghead: :madder: I prolly should have specified what vehicle was, most the of the guys round here know what I'm talking about. Anyways, the problem is in an 84 EA81T Hardtop (2door), with a 4wd 3 speed auto. Pretty standard EA81 tranny, there's gotta be someone out there that has a problem like this!! This is just a long line of problems I've had with this car in the last month, long long line of problems!!!! I'm bout ready to ask someone to take it off my hands. What are the odds of trading it for a good running XT-6??

Ohkay, here's the thing, I blew a front axle on my car, so I was thinking I can just drive it off the rear till I can get a new on in there, like I have done many time in the Brat. Well, here's where things get tricky. I put it in 4wd right, it drove just fine for about 40 miles, now it won't move. I put it in drive and hit the gas and the rpm's race, as well as the speedo goes up, but the car doesn't move. Has anyone tried driving an AT like this before? I was thinking that when you put it in 4wd it locked in the rear like on a push button 5spd, solid connection front to rear. But what I'm feeling is more like a FT5spd, without the difflock on. Am I wrong in thinking that the AT's have a center diff like an AWD car?? Some help soon would really be good. I'm about 30 miles from home right now, and the only spare axles I have are in the Brat, at home!!!

It's one of those things that you just need to keep working at. I had the same problem on the Brat earlier this week, had to take off one of the rear axles to put in the other car, and the rears were stuck. I sprayed with lotsa PB, let sit a day, sprayed again, let sit another day, then heated em up, took a total of about 4 days to get one of them off. On another note, when you put an axle in, it's is a really good idea to put a lot of anti-sieze on the splines before you put the cups on the stub. This will make it easier if you need to take it off again, also makes it easier to put it on. I did this on the car and both the rear's slip off like butter.

When I was building hot rods back in high school, we used LED's on several different cars for all kindsa lighting, to include dash lights. If you use a low voltage LED then you will need a resistor, but the ones that we used were 16 LED's, so they could be used in the automotive application without any resistors to bring down the voltage. If you used say a 6 volt LED on 12 volts, it will produce about twice as much light, but the life of it will be reduced by to 1/4 of normal. I've worked with LED's in all kindsa other applications, and have taken some college classes in electrical engineering, so I've gotten down what it takes to put em in. Guess I'll just go with the idea, then let everyone know how it turns out.

I've never had a crank have any problems with it. The rods on the other hand are another story, I've had rods break, and in big ways too. They've broken up at the wrist pin, then they decide they don't want to be couped up in the cylinder any more, very bad, specially at like 50, around 4K rpms. When I built my last motor, I took a set of rods, shot peened them, and balanced them, that motor saw RPMS in excess of 9K all the time without any problems. I also had the stock pistons balanced as well as the crank it's self. The crank was pretty much balanced, the shop didn't have to do a whole lot, just grind and drill a tiny bit off it. Forged pistons would definatly be a good thing, if you have a source to get a forged pistons for the EA motors, then there will be alot of people that will love you long time. As far as the rest of the motor, they are actually reall sound blocks. The only time I've broked a block is when a rod came free at 4K, and I knew that there was a problem to begin with, I could here it in there, it was just my own misjudgment to drive on the motor the way it sounded. Keep up the work, we'll help you out when you get stuck.

Ohkay, I've got a few dash lights out in all my vehicles. I was thinking, what about putting some LED's in there in place of a standard bulb. LED's use less power for the amount of light they put out, and they aren't that much in bulk. I was thinking that I could replace all the dash lights in all my rigs with them. And whot's the life of an LED?, the life of the car? I've never had one go out in any other the applications that I have them in. And I have an LED flashlight that I've had for years now. I was also thinking of putting them in place of other things like the map and dome lights and stuff. Whot do ya'll think? Has anyone else done this before? Or am I going to be the guinea pig?

I had the same problem with a water pump from Autozone. Would be ohkay at idle, but once off idle, it would heat up pretty bad. I took off the water pump, and the stamped metal impellar was loose on the shaft, I could hold the pulley, and still turn the impellar, I turned it a couple time, and it pulled right off the shaft. I took it into AZ and threw it at the manager (as is my custom when parts are bad from there). I got a pump from carquest that didn't have the flimsy stamped metal impellar, but the nice cast one like the OEM part does, but cheaper.

I'd say the same, essentially the internals would be the same. Between the EA81 and EA82's in that aspect. The only real difference between the two motors is the placement of the cam, other than that, not much different. The EA81 doesn't have bearing for the cam, so it would prolly have the same bearings. I'd almost go as far as saying that it uses the same crank. And why not. It's expensive to buy/build new machines to make new parts, so why not use the same machine to make the old cranks to make the new cranks. A friend of mine that used to work at Subaru used to tell me that the only real reason that Subaru stopped making EA cars in the early 90's was because the die's for making them were so worn out they couldn't be used any longer, and heck, I believe it, you use the same machine to make the same part for 10-15 some odd years, then yeah, it's going to wear out. (remember, Brats made it to Aus all the way up to the 90's). Anyways, I'm getting off on a tangent here. Check the new stuff to the old stuff and see if it's the same, thats all I can really say.

Lets see if I can remember here, it's been a while since I've done one of these conversions. You should have a power wire going into the coil, you can find this with a test light, that will go on the positive side of the coil. Then you should have two wires from the dizzy, one of them goes to the positive, the other to the negative. Of all the cars I worked with, the wire to the negative side from the dizzy was marked in yellow, the other to the positive side. Does one of the cars have a tach in it while the other doesn't? (one a GL and the other a DL?)My 1980 Brat GL has 4 wires going to the coil, but the 82 DL only had 3 wires going to the coil, (least untill I added in a tach to it) Here is how I've always hooked up my coils on my cars.

I had to get one from a wrecking yard as I couldn't find anywhere to get one new, except the dealership. The dealership had it, but you had to buy a whole coil assembly to the tune of like a couple hundred clams. Way outa my price range. However I got one from the wrecking yard by buying a "coil bracket" for 5 bucks, they didn't even ask about the little electrical connection on it.

Ohkay, kewl. I'll hafta head over there next week end get em. Then I jes gotta get my BFG's mounted on em. I put a lot of work into them before I went to Egypt, took off the old clearcoat, polished em up, repainted the black part of em, they look really good, I even have all the center caps for em.