Adam N.D.J.

The spider intake is a vast improvement over the straight intake because the straight intake necks down at the 90 into the head, were as the spider doesn't as much. Also what the main thing about the spider is that it points the throttle body in a direction where it is easier to plumb in an intercooler to it, without haveing to make a restrictive 90 from the intercooler to the throttle body as you would have to do with a straight intake. I'm not sure about the EA82 spider, but my ER27's spider has the water passage separate from the intake runners, so you don't get the heating of the intake charge.

Was wondering if anyone out there has run the LX 4 spokes on a car with rear discs. I had a problem when I was useing one of these wheels as a spare on my EA82, it was rubbing on the front caliper, but was wondering if it would cause a problem with the rears on my 84. I just asking before hand because I like these rims, but they are not in my presents at the moment, and don't want to go through the trouble of getting them if they are going to be a problem. And I definatly don't want to be grinding on a mag wheel. Here is a picture of the wheel in question:

Hey, I just experienced this the other day in my EA81. It's the inboard joint (the DOJ, on the tranny). Mine doesn't have a boot, or grease for the matter. Does it feel like you have a wheel thats about to come off the car? If so, then yeah, thats it.

Turboing the NA EA81 is something that I've been looking into for a long time now, since I had my first EA81 car (1997). Here's whot you do. Your going to need quite a few parts from an EA82 (85 n newer) car, you need the pistons from a turbo car, that will drop your compression, making it easier to run boost to it. once the pistons are in it, get the crossover pipe from the EA82T, it will bolt right up to the motor, you may need to move the exhaust studs around though. Modify the crossmember to put the pipe in. Then bolt on the turbo from the EA82T. You will notice the inlet pipe to the turbo bolts to the turbo. So just make a new inlet pipe that has a mounting flange for the carbs on it. Now get an intake manifold from an SPFI EA82, remove the throttle plate from the shaft. Use the intake tube from the EA82T to run straight from the turbo, or, you can add in an intercooler easily at this point. For the turbo oiling, just add in a supply feed from one of the plugs in the oil pump, you can take off the supply from a T in the sender, or there is a plug in the side of the block, right behind the pump that you can use to supply oil. For the return, drill a hole in the head where there is a flat spot on the back side, and press in a piece of 1/2" pipe, then run a hose with a 90 in it to this, this is exactly how the EA81T has it. As for the water lines, you can run a line from the heater core to it, the best way to do this is to run the line from the heater supply line to the turbo, then to the heater core, then back to the engine. That way you can cool the coolant from the turbo off faster with the heater core before it gets to the engine. I would highly recommend putting in an A/F meter so that you can tune in the carbs correctly for it. A boost guage is also a good thing to have. A lot of this I got from helping some friends that owned Caprice turbo's, this was a 2.3 turbo with a carb, the carb is a draw through, so the carb sits before the turbo, it can be done, it's just a matter of how time do you want to put into it. I really don't have a good candidate any more, cause 3 outa my 4 vehicles are already fuel injected, and the 4th is a restoration project, it's going to be all stock. P.S: I would really like to see some of my idea's put to work, I know that I can't do everything that I come up with, so I'm presenting my designs for others to use. If someone can test em out for me, that makes me more confident in all my work. P.S.S: Tony, the pistons in the EA81T are NOT forged. I have one that you have to check out, it's pretty bad, it has one of the ring lands between the top and bottom compression rings snapped off. They are definatly cast.

Yeah, those are two options that I've been considering. Problem with plan B is that Bek won't drive my car, it scares her. She's used to learned to drive in an EA71 Brat, now she drives the SPFI 3 door, so when she gets into the boost, it scares her. Plan A is to intentionally sabotage the axle, I've been thinking of packing rocks into the cup, then taping it up and taking it around the block, with my luck though, I'd get home and just have a cup full of finely powdered rocks. Maybe I'll just yank it out of there and stick a stub in the front untill I get enough cash to buy an axle myself.

Ohkay, I've got my EA81T with a 4wd Auto. Well, when I bought it about 2 years ago I noticed that the passenger side inboard boot was gone, and that the joint was dry, not a sign of grease to be had in there. Well, I left it like that. I've been driveing it on like that for 2 years now. On the free way last night the joint was shaking so bad I thought the wheel or hub was coming off. It was like this for the nearly 30 mile trip home. I let it sit over night, and the next day, it drives like normal. So today I'm trying to kill the axle, stomping the gas at every light, shifting at like 5-5.5K, nothing will kill this friggin axle!!!! If this was one of my manual cars, the axle woulda blown as soon as it got a tear in the boot (which has happened to me a couple times). And my tranny doesn't have the normal slushy shifts that are the norm, it has hard positive shifts that you can really feel in the seat of the pants. ARG!!! It wouldn't be so bad, except that that axle is knocking and clicking so loud it can be heard over the stereo, or 2 blocks away if your outside the car, and I can't replace it because I told the wife that in a 4wd car you don't need to replace an axle untill it's been confirmed dead!

Is it an automatic? If it is, they are inherintly slow to begin with, there are a couple of active threads right now that go into that. What body style is it? Not that it really matters, just wondering. Is it a 4wd? The exhaust gaskets is a pretty good place to start, specially if it sounds like it's leaking from near the motor. Those aren't hard to do, there are just 4 nuts holding on the Ypipe, take those off, drop down the pipe, pull off the old gaskets, put the new ones on, then bolt it back up. I would spray some PB blaster on the nuts about an hour before working on it. PB can be had from most auto parts stores. Welcome to the community, you've come to the right place for all your Subaru needs.

Uh, you do mean EA81 right?? My 82 Also ran without the ECU plugged in. I don't have my 83 any more, so I can't do that test. Someone else??

Mine says Subaru H6 in big letters, then under that in small print is "6-cylinder 2.7 Liter" It jes tells people whot you have under the hood.

Ya know, I'm thinking that that would be a blast to go too. I would be down for it, if I can get a clutch before then. Mine is seriously lacking now, It would be tough for me to even get over sexton pass right now with the way it is.

Holy wow. I didn't think that it was that close to me!!! WOW. I AM SO DOWN FOR THAT!!!! I think that I can prolly hang with most of those rigs on most of the stuff. I really need to dig up some cash for a clutch though. A snorkle would prolly be pretty good too, although not all that neccesary.

Approximatly where is this at? Cause I need to know if I need to get my hands on a trailer or now. Would be pretty killer to make it on a run like that. If it's in the same place as those pictures from last year. I'm liking that big pit area!!!

Yeah, people today get a much bigger shock than I did. When I was searching the net for other Subaru Junkie's (no pun intended), I only found like two or three others. Todd (subaru3), BillyC, and Geoffrey. Then over the course of the last 6 years the whole cult experience has exploded onto the scene. It's pretty good too, cause now I don't have to make as many parts as I used to!! Oh yeah, I got approched by this guy last night, asked if I wanted to buy a Brat. I don't have the cash for it right now, but he's going to get back to me with all the details later this week, it's like his father-in-law thats selling it, but if anyone is interested, I'll pass on the info.

at least once in their life! This I have done. I thought I had messed up my car, and instead, I learned somthing new. Did ya'll know that a VAM car will run without the VAM hooked up, it just runs like it's on it's last leg?? I didn't know this, I didn't think the motor would run if it didn't know how much air was getting to it. I my putting the motor back in my 84, the one thing that I forgot to do was hook up the air meter. It ran, but ran like a pile of crap. I was going through everything today, to see if there was something, just something that I might have messed up, or missed. Low and behold, laying there, under the aircleaner housing, is this black cable, with a wide plug on it, huh, wonder what that goes to, wait a tick, Holy Crap. Plugged it in, and wahlah, it runs like a freakin scalded dog! Still smokes like my grandmother on bingo night, but at least She's running like her old self again. Now if I can figure out this dern smoking problem. I'm beginning to wonder if it is still the turbo. Cause I killed each cylinder for a few minutes, and it was still blowing mad amounts of smoke, also the plugs are all clean and pretty, no signs of oil in the cylinders. Could be the exhaust side seal. Hmmm.

Hmm, 84 FSM, I have an 84, Hmm, too bad I don't have any money. :-\

The old autos really do suck up a lot of power. Somewhere in the region of 75%, and when you make 80 horses, thats only 20 horses making it to the wheels. I had an NA auto wagon, it was seriously gutless. My Gen 1 Brat with a 1600 and a stick was faster, and the motor in it was on it's way out. There is only one auto that I've liked, and thats in my Turbo, it's out of an NA car, and I played around with the modulator n stuff, but don't know what I did to it, when it shifts from 1st to 2nd it chirps the tires, and takes off like a bat outa hell, and it's real consistant on the shifts too. But for the most part, the best real performance mod for an auto car, is to put a stick in it.

I love this car way too much to just get rid of it. It's just that so much has been going wrong. I've been trying and trying and trying to get it to run right. And nothing I do is working. It can be very racking on ones confidence. It's my daily driver, and without it, I don't know what I'm going to do. I don't have a job, and I spent my last dime on this last load of work I put into it. I know about putting a car into time out till it can get worked on. The only problem with that is that my Brat (the Gen I) has been in long term storage for over a year now cause the motor is blown in it. The car is drivable, in the sense that I can move it around on the street so that it doesn't get tagged as a derilect vehicle. But as far actually getting anywhere in it, not going to happen, I took it about half a mile up the street and back, and blew through almost 2 quarts of oil. Plus it's getting progressivly worse, not wanting to idle, if I touch the gas it will die, unless I punch it, then it studders and starts to move, but it doesn't really accelerate untill it starts boosting, then it takes off like an NA car at part throttle, not like a Turbo car at full throttle. I don't know what I'm going to do, I'm really am at my wits end.

Alas, I have done as much as I can think of. Poor Leena, my 84 Turbo Hardtop, has had many problems this last 10 months. First she was overheating, and popped both head gaskets, then the radiator went out on her. Then the heads, and all this time, the smoking that I could never find the problem of. Well I tore apart the motor, and found that the number 3 piston was broken, so I rebuilt the motor, replaced the pistons, new rings, new heads, new gaskets and seals all the way around. Mind you this wasn't a full rebuild, as I left the bottom end alone, didn't think that it needed new bearings. Well I finally got it all together, after a week of working on the engine. It's still smoking, I think worse now than before. But now it's not running right, she's stuttering and coughing. There is no real power untill it gets into boost, and if you try and cruise, it surges and pulses. I can't find anything wrong with it. I've gone through all the electrical and vacume lines, checked over everything. It seems that it's just this motor's time to pass. I've done everything I can, it's time for the last rights. :boohoo: :boohoo:

I use BPR6ES-11's in all my rigs, haven't had a problem yet. I gap at .045, which is .001 larger than the stock gap, but I also have stock coils too. As for the rough idle, could it be something else? Vacume leak or whot not? You can see if it is one particular cylinder thats causeing the problem. Leave the engine idle, and pull off the plug wires from the dizzy one by one. If you pull one off and the engine smooths out, you've found the problem cylinder, if none of them make a difference, then you've got a problem somewhere else. Also make sure you check the gap. I've pulled some out of the box that had very little gap, and others have had huge gaps in them, so you should always check the gap first.

I've hit 22psi on my EA81 and it didn't even ping. This was accidentially though, had a waste gate line blow off, and it wasn't for more than the few seconds. I've got a buddy running 25psi on a stock ford 2.3 block and pistons. He has some minor upgrades to the intake and fuel system. I don't see why we can't hit 20 on ours. Up the fuel pressure, put in bigger injectors, and intercool it, if we can hit 15, then 20 shouldn't be a far reach. I think that i now have a quest!!!!

*Comments withheld due to low moral standings....

Depends. How much time do you have to spend on this project. I wasn't working at the time I did mine, so all my time was devoted entirely to the project. Took me an entire week straight to get it up and working. Then another month after that to work out all the bugs. And those weren't short days either. I worked from sun up to sun down, dureing the summer. I also had 4 sets of different schematics I was working from. But now that I've done it once already, I think that I could get it done in half the time without any of the other problems that I had after I got it up and running. Once you get the engine/computer harness separated from the rest of the cars harness (the two are intertwined into each other pretty good), things aren't too bad from there. The easiest way to do it is to take the entire cars harness, hook up the engine and computer, then follow the wires too and from, pulling off everything that isn't associated. There will be several power wires (6 If I remember correctly) and too many ground wires to count. Just take your time, and go through it all slowly. An FSM of the donor car helps out a lot. Also dig up any and every other schematic you can find, they will all come in handy. One of the hardest things that I had to deal with was the fuel tank, if you can dig one up from a Turbo Brat or wagon this will make the world a whole lot better. Unless your going with a fuel cell, then I guess it really isn't a problems at all. I wanted to use my stock fill port and fuel guage, so it was important to me. The biggest thing though is to take your time, this is definatly something that can't be rushed. Lotsa luck to ya.

They prolly do have a filter for actual driving. Most people with setups like that like to take them off to show off the size of the turbo.

Oh man, that Gen One!!!! I filled the cup!! Someone gimme a wet nap!!!!!!! It's bad engough the wife saw the one with the 1.8 in it, but if she see's that one, I won't be done till hers is like that!!!

Kewl, Lemme know how it goes, I want to get four brighter n' hell lights on the front of my rig!