Adam N.D.J.

That is a pretty good idea, although would take alittle more work to fab up, cause you would have to have variable height pieces due to the variations of the subframe connectors. For those that are embarking on their own lifts, I have taken a pic of my autocad drawing for everyone to see, makes things a little clearer as to what you need to do. It doesn't have the front to rear runners in there, I left those out due to the differences between the hatches and others. Here is the pic, it's pretty big, so I'm linking it. Lift

Oh yeah, you can run 10 on a stocker no prob. I don't start leaning out unless I push it over 14psi. The very first thing I did to mine, before I even got it running, was pull off the the mech fan. You could go to manual steering, that would put a few more horses to the ground. But if you really want to get those ponies pushin ya, get rid of that autobox. A manual tranny has less horsepower loss than an auto. Lotsa luck to you, if you put the work into it, you'll be revvvin the engine next to a two five without a care.

I'm running 11 psi on an EA81T, no real mods to it, just exhaust at the moment, and de-emissioned it. No problems. The EA81's and 82's use the same injectors, one of the injectors I'm running is off an 85 turbo.

Lemme guess, automatics?! Pretty much every auto I've owned has had this problem. And it doesn't fall in the starter, or the solenoid. It's actually in the ignition switch it's self, it gets a lot of carbon build up in there, and then you don't get enough voltage to the solenoid for it to engage. I haven't taken a switch apart, or even tried to take one apart so I'm not sure if there is a way to fix it other than replaceing the switch.

My kit would be two pieces, front and rear. This would require some assembly, if you wanted. The front will be two pieces, left and right, and the rear will be two pieces also, the main lift and diff hanger. There may or may-not be the parts for the shift linkage, depends on whether the person wants one pre-made, and also has a lot to do with the tranny in the vehicle. There will be options that the person ordering can specify. At the moment this is something that is kinda up in the air at the moment because I'm starting a new job, and looking for a new house.

I got my rear rack for my car yesterday. It's great! I can't wait to actually get it mounted, but I won't have time for it till this weekend. I think FedEx mighta messed up or something cause it took a little longer to get here than expected, but thats not his fault. Thanks Todd, good stuff. Here's a pic of how it's gonna look when it's fully mounted:

I use a 17 footer but only have about a foot to spare. A fullsize Brat would prolly need a 24 footer. Uhauls are best cause they have lower decks, and wider doors than Ryder. The doors are a little over 7 feet, so you won't even have to take the mirrors off.

One word. U-Haul!!! A Brat fits nicely into the back of one, and they aren't that much, specially when your only going a few hundred miles. You can get a ride down there, take the bus, have a friend take you, fly whatever, then rent the uhaul, get some ramps, drive the Brat into the uhaul, then drive home. Good luck to ya!

Only true at the moment. Early next year I'm going to be pulling my body off my frame, then strip all the suspension off it for painting (real automotive paint), while I have it I'm going to be making a jig from it. So sometime next summer I'm going to have the jig all made up and can make up the 6" lift to order for anyone that wants one, and doesn't have the time or knowhow to make up one them selves.

300!! For a ByB/Ozy lift, but if your doing a home built 6" (like mine) It'll run you about a 150$. I got all my steel for everythine, thats the 6x2's, the 4x2's and 2x2's for about 75 bucks, then about 25 bucks in wire and gas, then the bolts are about another 25 bucks and 25 for other things you want to add on (paint, grinding discs, ect). You can look in my gallery on the usmb site and see how I've got most of mine set up, if you need any help, drop me a line.

Lookin good Ken. Although I'm going to have to find a way to hide those pictures from Bekah. Hers does look a lot better with the spoiler on the back of it though. I'll get some pictures up when she gets home. It's funny, she has pretty much the same car, but without the A/c.

Hey Boz, if'n yer gittin it, and don't want the turbo, let me know. I gotta get rid of my 007mobile soon. If'n yer payin a hunny for the car, I'll give ya 20 plus shipping for the turbo unit.

I've heard differently. There is a guy down here with a Nissan 4wd truck, and has one in his front R160, says it works great, and first hand experience is one thing that I definatly go on. And if it works in the front of a Nissan with 33's, should work fine on a Subaru with less than 30" tires.

This can happen if the valves aren't adjusted properly, or if there is someother problem with the valvetrain, stuck or bent valve, if you have the head off, you should be able to check the head for problems.

The Brat is comeing along nicely. In the last 8 months I've put a lot of work into it. I was in Egypt on another deployment just before that, so I had a little cash to do stuff. Among all the mods, a 6" lift kit that adds a frame between the unibody and suspension, ER27 out of an XT-6, bobtailed it 17 inches, put in a 5spd dual range, which feeds into a nissan transfercase, and two rear diffs (on is in the front). So now it's an H-6 powered rear wheel drive with 20 forward gears. I also took out all the stock sheet metal on the front end, it was all cruched and pretty much worthless, so I made a new slide off front end, so I can slide off the front to work on the motor, which is crammed into the engine bay. I've got a bunch of pictures in my gallery, I keep it pretty updated as I do stuff. My Gallery Here's a pic of what it looks like now, as you can see, it needs a new brushguard,

Yeah, I had the same problems the first time I went out puddle jumpin in the wifes Brat, but after a little silicone, and a surgical glove, we had results like this:

Couldn't remember if you ever got to see your Brushguard mounted on my Brat, so here is a pic of when it was mounted on the Brat: And here it is on on it's new home, my 84 Turbo Hardtop: http://usmb.net/albums/album11/brushguard.jpg Jes though I'd let you know that I still got it, and get some good use out of it, (it's saved the Brat from 3 deer, and the coupe from 2, maybe it should be a deer guard instead of a brush guard!)

Last I looked, the Legacy 2.2 used an RHB52 IHI, could be wrong though. I'd say about 150 to the wheels. The conservative side of "an EA82 could hit the 180 window" is just that to me, conservative. I think that the EA81T can hit about 210-220, and the EA82 could hit 240-260, if everything is done right. And hopefully next summer I will be able to prove this! All I have to say, (after riding in a 13 second rabbit), is that anything can be made to go really really fast, it's all in how much time money and imagination you have. Keep up the good work though, and send out some pics, I have a T-bird IC sitting in my garage waiting to go into my car, (it's been there for almost 2 years now), but haven't come up with anything that looks right to me, wanna see how you have yours set up. (although I'm thinking that the spider intake makes things easier).

80's Puegeot(sp?) 505's have the same 4 on 140mm pattern. You can get them in 14 and 15 inches, in either steel or alloys. Lotsa people on here are running them, and haven't heard anything bad so far. I do remember somthing a while back about special lug nuts, but I think that thats only for the alloys, or the 504 Pugs, someone with experience with them will be able to fill in the details.

Whot the general states is true. I started out with a home built 2" lift, and had no problem for 2 years, then moved up to a 4" BYB lift, still no problems for over 2 years, then I recently moved up to 6"s of lift. It still handles very much like a car on the road. Drivability doesn't suffer any. The only thing that you will notice is that with the bigger tires, it will take a little more to get up and going, although depending on how big you go, this may not be noticed. Each case is different. But for the most part, by lifting your rig, you will be tempted to take it into places you would normally not think of going.

Hey Mick! Whot are those rims from (specific chevy). The ones that I have, 15x8 from a K-5 Blazer, the center hole was too small and I had to grind down the tangs on the hub to get them to fit. Whot size are they? Might be the size of mine, but I had a problem with snapping off lugs on the front with only 4 holding it on. Actually snapped all four one time, and watched the tire go bouncing off past me on a corner (luckily it was a slow speed test run). SO I ended up drilling out the hubs on the front for 6 lugs, I used 1/2" by 2 1/2 or 3 inch drag studs, strong. Like I said, it might be the rim and tire size that was doing it.

They are a body lift. All you need is the kit, basic hand tools, jack, jack stands and some time. A couple friends helps, but not needed. Also you'll need to furnish your own bigger rims and tires. You get the lift blocks and all the bolts n' stuff you need to put it in there.

how are the sealing surfaces? Have you check to make sure they are straight? Also the bolt holes tend to get pushed in, good thing to do is to take a ball peen hammer and put the round end on the hole, and smack the other side with a hammer to get the pushed through the other way.

HuH?! It usually pops up with a little box when I get a message, didn't do it this time, had to go in and check my messages manually. Thought I'd share on here, so everyone else could know. As most people know I've got an 84 Hardtop Turbo, EA81T. Well, I managed to uh (cough, cough) pick up a motor by pure luck, whole motor (sans turbo unit, what I need). Well, it didn't dawn on me untill almost 3 months after I got it, when I was cleaning the find on the OC on my car, the EA81T's had an oil cooler that sat between the filter and the pump. It's a real simply set up, and if I sat down and looked at it long enough, I could prolly machine some up. What it is is a round piece of metal, it has a bolt that is threaded on both end and is hollow, the bolt goes though the OC unit, and threads into the part of the pump where the filter would screw in, then the filter screws into the bolt. Oil flows into the filter like normal, but after it comes out the filter it gets diverted through a pipe to the cooler, then returns from the cooler and goes into the pump where it would go if it came from the filter. (anyone understand that? Should I draw a picture?) But anyways, if I get some time and little cash to play around with, I'm going to try and reproduce these, as they are really simple, I think that the hardest part would be the bolt it's self, as the rest is just machine work. Hope this helps. Ohyeah, if you ever see an EA81T, check the oil pump, if there are two lines coming off it, pointing towards the drivers side, this is the cooling unit, grab it, just take off the filter, then use either a 19 or 7/8th wrench on the larger bolt in the middle of it, and it comes right off, and getting a new gasket is easy, uses the same one as the oil filter..

I've doubled up gaskets before, but not gasket to gasket. I've always cut out a thin sheet of either aluminum, or steel, depending on whats laying around, and stacked that in between the gaskets. Of course this was on (cough cough), V8's. You can do anything if you put some time into it. Did you just use the EA82 intake, or both the intake and carby? The hitachi carbs that were on the EA82's were feedback, and relied quite heavily on the computer (you can get em to run without the computer, but it takes some fiddling.) When you take of the intake, no matter how much you try not too, you always get some coolant that goes into the heads. depending on how much got in there, you can end up blowing white for up to a week. SO the best advice was already given, watch your coolant level, and drive the &*#! out of it, see if it clears up, if not, then I would check gaskets.