Adam N.D.J.

Oh yeah, for that green Brat, I think that I would be willing to give up the 3-dr, the Gen 1 Brat, both wives, and a pair of ER27's. hehe. Hey Tony, if'n you need to measure up a Gen I tailgate to do work with, I still have my Gen I Brat that you can work with.

As for the drivers side, you can take off the cover, and ther is a hole in there for a step. So if you find another one of the spring out step covers from a passenger side, it will go into the drivers, then you'll have two steps.

I've definatly got a problem with mine. It's blowing huge clouds of smoke, and I burn through about 8q of oil a week. I've gone trough the motor, new heads, checked the rings, removed the pcv system, but it still smokes. There is no oil in the intake, or evidence on the plugs. I've pulled off the crossover pipe, and there is no smoke coming out of the heads. So I'm suspecting the seal on the exhaust side has gone out. So I'm either looking for an EA82 turbo unit, or a rebuild kit, or reseal kit. I don't have much of a budget to work on here, and need to get my car more reliable, it's my daily driver! Thanks.

I got the honor of attending the Subaru pre-party in 2002 for the Pikes Peak run. Got to see the Prodrive cars, and meet the Drivers, including Lovell (have a poster signed by him). There were a bunch of "monster" cars, including this one green Imp. I'm thinking it had a 2.5 turbo in it, sequential semi-automatic tranny, stripped with rollcage and everything. This was a private party car. This is the same year that Jamie ran in the Pleo (it was a Pleo right? The toaster on wheels?) That was a kewl little car. I'm prolly going to be attending the run next year (as a spectator). It's great to see. A must at least once in your life. The tractor runs are the best, nothing like seeing a huge Mack truck hauling up a mountain with two huge black plumes of smoke pouring out of the stacks. Mmu wa hahahaha.

Oh yeah, dunes rock!! I love taking the Brat out to the Oregon dunes in Coos Bay. Whot exactly happened to your strut? Cause I had some problems with one of mine last weekend, it kept sliding out of the knuckle.

A 100-175 horse kit for a V-8 will be different than for an H-4. NO2 has some interesting properties, and has to be tuned right, or can will have something I like to call "spontanious migration of parts". To get the right ratio you need to calculate your engine air flow throught the rpm band, fuel consumption, volumetric efficiency, as well as some other things that I know I'm forgetting. You would have better luck if you jes got a kit that was designed for your engine. You can get a generic 1.8L kit, they have em for 1.8 VW motors, would prolly be the best bet. NOS (the company), can work with you if you talk to them, let them know what size the motor is, what the fuel system is, and everything.

They still actally produce the Sambar, Subaru Sambar Jes that I'm pretty sure they are sold only in Japan. They sell them in 2wd and 4wd, auto and manual. Plus you can get dump beds, refrigerator boxes, all kindsa different models, not jes passenger vehicles. Not sure what size motor they have though, can't read too much japanese. We don't get everything here in the states, never have, prolly never will. As for the add in the paper, it "could" be correct, military personell buys cars overseas and ship em home all the time, coulda happened.

Oh no, not a straight swap. Although you can mix and match the parts. I've got a friend that built a turbo rabbit, and he's useing a turbo that consist of a Ford t-bird center senction, a GL-10 hot side, and a Legacy cold side. Another friend, on his Legacy has the Legacy hot side with the T-bird cold side. So you can build a turbo that is bigger and better without haveing to fab up different mounting flanges on the crossover. The IHI hybrid has been in the works for over a year now, and both the hybrids here work great. Although if you get just one bigger turbo, you will have to get different flanges put on, as the flange on the EJ22 crossover is quite a bit bigger than the EA82 one. You get the idea. Plus with just a plain bigger turbo, your prolly not going to make full boost untill a higher rpm, thats where the hybrids are better, they don't drastically increase the rpm which you make full boost. Hope this helps.

Hey Babe, make sure that you push the post reply button, instead of the new thread button. Since this is your first post, we won't really hold ya to it. :-) I'll be home tomarrow afternoonish. Love ya.

most O2's only run from 0 to 1 volt, so you neet a pretty fine voltmeter to do any good. Also a large display one would be needed to that you could keep an eye on it while you were driving. I want the lights for mine, it's going to go in where the stock radio would be, and the lights make it so that you can see it out the corner of your eye without haveing to look directly at it.

Yes this will boost the power in your car, but I wouldn't recommend doing it if it will get you in trouble with the smog nazi's in your area. Punching out the cat is kinda hard on these with the 90's in the pipe and all. It would be easier to cut out the pipe and weld in a straight piece.

I've been trying to find the link to the area where there was a schematic and parts list to build your own A/f meter. Been wanting to put one on my turbo as I'm going be getting my hybrid finished up soon, and want to keep an eye on things. So if anyone remembers where the link is, (although I think that it was on Brians site at one time, not there now though.) Thanks everyone. I'm heading to Radio Shack this weekend, so the sooner the better. Thanks.

I've got a half and half system on mine. The fronts are 6 lug hubs, and the rears are 4 lug rims. The rim is much easier to do, plus all you have to do is drill 2 holes in the much easier to drill rim. I haven't had any problems with it on the rear end. Although the fronts are a different story. I had the rims drilled out, but I ran into the problem of snapping off lugs on the front with only 4. So I decided to drill the hubs. The hubs are harder to drill, so take your time. Plus you'll have to build up a weld on the back side, and then machine it down so that the lugs will sit in there straight. I haven't done this yet, so 4 of my lugs sit at a slight angle. Not really a problem, but can be annoying when trying to take off the tire. It's up to how much work you personally want to do, or have done for you.

The low boost can be one of several things. Like said already, a faulty waste gate actuator can do this. If you have a guage installed, then you can pull off the actuator rod, and see if you can get more boost, if not, on to the next problem. The crossover pipe, between the heads. (this is the problem that I had on mine when I suffered from low boost) What can happen is the welds on the crossover (which is made up of 3 pieced) can come loose from time, and allow exhaust to leak out, you can check this by grabbing the middle of the pipe and seeing if it moves, or if when running you can hear a leak. If thats not it, then it's time for a cat-ectomy. The catalytic converter can become plugged up, slowing the exhaust flow, and hindering the turbo massively. This would be the 3 best places to check out. Lotsa luck.

If it's what I think your talking about, then it's actually a fuel damper. What it does is smooth out any pulses from the pump. It may sound like a crucial part, but not really. When I plumbed my truck for F.I. I didn't have one, so I went without. If I intently watch my FP guage, I'll notice a very slight movement in the needle, but it doesn't effect drivability, and has been like this for many months now. You can do without it.

Oh yeah, been to the ponds a few times. It's an ohkay place to jes go and get a nice coating of mud, but it's not really all that fun. The Gold Ray ponds are much funner Personally I like the technical stuff. Pickin lines, and goin slow is my game, always has been. And I think I've got the final evolution of the Brat down. Cause most stuff is still fun, without being "TOO" easy. A challenge is what makes it fun, and in a Subaru, most things are a challenge. Onion Mountain has some killer stuff, as well as Selmac, and out in Merlin. All places I can't wait for the wet season, when the Brat goes from black to brown!! I'm prolly going to go on a Chrismas tree hunt in December, SNOW!!! Yeah, it's funny how 225's on a ford are tiny, yet 235's on a Brat are huge! I like it though. 235/75's are one of the most common tires around, makes em pretty cheap. Oh yeah, that pic that Junkie put up, is the Pleasant Creek Mud Bog, in the wet season, it's jes a big sticky hole, no fun this time of year though, it's jes a bunch of dried up ruts, but once the water starts flowing! Woo Hoo, I'm getting stoaked!! Bring on winter!

You can put them in the USMB photo gallery. If you don't have an account there yet, email Junkie and he'll set you up.

Ohkay. Yeah, I know that trail. It is actually the one that I was origonally planning on running this last weekend, but I changed it out as I hadn't tested the Brat yet, and wanted to make sure all my mods would hold up at a closer location before I took it out there. Last time I ran it was in a yoda, it's loads of fun. We'll have to wait untill next summer though, cause we're going to be going into the wet season here pretty soon. And the wet season runs untill about May. Another fun area is the Prospect trail system, but that too has a closed season from October till June. But even will the closed seasons in most places, there are still tonnes of places to go in the winter.

I beg to differ. I've used EA81 solid front rotors on my 80 (EA71) Brat, and visa versa. If this is your 79 that your talking about, then yeah, the early EA81 rotors, and hubs will work. My 82 Brat actually has hubs and rotors from a parts 79 wagon that I had.

The one on the Brat is really loud, but works just fine. I have a fuel pressure guage, and regardless of how loud or quiet the pump happens to be, the pressure remains the same. I wouldn't worry too much about, jes means the pump is getting a little old.

You'll want that little jiggler valve on the top when you put the thermo back in. It lets a little water bypass the thermo, but more importantly, air in the system, so it needs to be at the top.

I may have run that trail. The rock looks familiar, but there are a few area's round here with rocks like that. I've been through a lot of trails from the Cali boarder up to Wolf Creek and from Cave Junction to K-falls. Half the time i really don't know where I am specifically, jes a general idea of the area. Gonna have another run sometime in the future (within 3 months), might be a good place to go. You can come along and show us the way.

It was a good weekend. I'll let ya know when we got some good goop to go muddin around in. And I'll dubb my video onto a cassette and send it down to your place soon. Need to get an email with your address. Hehe. Can't wait to do it again. Need to get some new front tires, a clutch and O2 sensor and I'll be rarein to go again!

what your going to want to do is put less gap in the plug. The higher pressure in the cylinder, the harder it for a spark to form, this will cause problems. If your running twice or more boost you'll prolly want to drop about 3 thousandths off the gap, so instead like .043 your gonna want to run .040 That should helps things out a bit.

I'm pretty sure it's 54mm's. I've got a 160 in my turbo right now, and I'm pretty sure it's suppose to be for a SBC (small block chevy, 305-350-400). Jes what ever you get, make sure it's a 54mm one. And, whot turbo? I musta missed the thread with you getting a new rig? Comeon girlfriend, DETAILS!!!!