Adam N.D.J.

Have you checked the transmission fluid? (The little loop dipstick on the passenger side of the tranny, about halfway down, just behing the bellhousing) If the tranny is low or out, then the front diff can be trashed, which will cause a clunking in gear, especially if the gears are actually toasted. But first check the fluid, also take note of what it looks like (nice amber clear, dark brown, black with metal specs, AWOL)

Letting a power steering system sit overnight will usually help most of the air out. Also turning the wheels back and forth several times in a row, holding it at each lock for a couple of seconds will do a lot. If the pump is making kind of a whrrring noise that is definatly audible, then there is still air in the pump. Also take note of the fluid, if it is kind of pink, and frothy, then there is still A LOT of air in the system, at that point, the best bet is to let it sit. Then go at it again in the morning.

Is that just a 2WD thing? Cause the highest final drive that I'm used to seeing on a Soob is 3.70's.

Mmmm, MUD!!! C'mon, someone saying that is like walking into a room full of fasting people and yelling STEAK!! That is one of the only reasons that I don't like summer, it's the one season that we don't get any rain down here, and thus, not really any mud to find. I was on a trail last weekend that had about 16"s of fine powder from where the Cat's where going up and down with logs, all I could think about was what it would be like with a couple inches of rain. Mmmm, Mud!

If you manage to get he whole harness from the XT-6, then it's not too hard to do. You will need the entire harness though, as the computer is mounted in the trunk. Then once you get it home, hook up the computer, and the engine to the donor harness. Then just start removing the wires that don't connect to either of those two (lights, radio, hvac, ect...) Take note of what wires go to ground, and what wires go to power. This is important. Also when you pull the wire out of the fuse block, remember what size fuse to use (I think it's a 10 and 15). If you can get a local shop to print you out an "Engine performance, 2.7L MPFI" schematic then this will help you out a lot, as you can use it to trace what wires you need. Then once you get all the wireing pulled out, then you can clean it all up, and put it inside a conduit. Mount the computer where you want it first. Then hook up the harness to engine, and snake it into where the computer is. Then just loop up the excess and store it somewhere. (In a Brat, with the computer in the cab, there will be excess). Then once everything is routed, hook up your grounds, add power, and figure out how your going to do the fuel system. The fuel system uses high pressure (30-45lbs), and will require a different pump. There are many ways to do this, you can install a "lift" pump in the stock location, and then the high pressure one in the engine compartment, or you can just put the high pressure pump in the stock location. There is a feed and return line. I've heard of many useing the stock lines, but in my eye they are way too small for their purpose. What I did was run a new 2/3's steel lines from the tank to the engine compartment for the feed line, and used the stock feed line as the new return line. If ya have any other questions let us know, we'll try to answer best we can. Lotsa luck with that shoehorn!

If the only problem is that the tubes are broke where the hoses connect, then what you can do is get some brass pipe that is the same size as the hold connection, then drill out the valve to put the pipe into the valve a little ways, then epoxy them in real good. It's a good idea to leave like and inch or so sticking out for the hose, that way you can grab onto the pipe if you need to take off the hoses.

Dpends a lot on the ability of the person doing the swap. I think that with a little time and some measureing, it could prolly be done pretty easily.

Not sure on the "torque bind", this is something that I have never experienced, could be that mine is limited to manual trannies. The transaxle can have problems with the front diff, although they aren't common. I can't remember if the newer automatics have an separate fill for the front diff, as the old ones did, they take gear oil in the diff. Getting to the front diff is a simple as removing the trans assembly, the removing the bellhousing, the transmission part is then behind all that.

Welcome aboard. IATN is a good place, out shop uses a lot of info we get off there, very helpful place. Did you replace the left knuckle with a used unit (wrecking yard?) complete with bearings. It is possible that the bearings may be an issue. Not too likely, but possible. Also a lot of us have run into a quite a few instances where a rebuilt axle wasn't properly rebuilt, especially with NAPA. You could try swapping the front axles and seeing if the problem moves. Also check the TSB's out there, I do believe that there is one that involves the sway bar that is described as a left CV problem. (Might actually be the first thing to do.)

Sometimes one problem will actually spawn another problem, that coupled with a lot of mechanics will pull a code, then just change out the part mentioned in the code, without any other diagnostic. I actually had a car that came in with a knock sensor code, checked the sensor it's self, and it was working just fine, within specs and everything. Although when it was running I noticed that it was all over the place. Turned out that it had a bad rod bearing, that wasn't loud enough for me to pick up by ear, but the KS was picking it, and pulling timing. If I had just changed out the sensor, then it would have just thrown the code again. Another time I found an air/fuel mix code, instead of it being a problem with the motor or any of the sensors, it was actually the fuel in the car. It had sat out in a field for a couple years and was bad. Pulled all the fuel out, replaced the filters and filled it with new, and now it runs tops, without any codes. So in short, sometimes the onboard diagnostics are good, sometimes not so. Depending on your mechanic, it can actually be a double edged sword. Might worth while to take it somewhere where you can get the codes pulled for free, then if it is the same problem, then go talk to the mech.

Also, along with the noticable differences of the EA and EJ, the EJ18 is also a true 1.8L as it is somewhere in the area of like 1815cc's, and the EA82 is like 1780cc's or 1.78L

Px1xx series code can be the fault of an O2 sensor. The front (or pre-cat) O2 controls the mixture, and one that is lazy, or not working properly, but withing "specs" will usually set one of these. On the gas cap off problem, that will set a P04xx code, or EVAP system malfunction/leak Having someone pull a code for your at an autoparts store (i.e. Autozone) is perfectly fine, especially if it is an OBDII system (96 and newer), as the OBDII system regulations state that all the diagnostic codes have to be within a certain area they are layed out like this. Codes are set up with a 5 digit identifier, the first digit is a letter. B-body, P-powertrain, C-Chassis, U-Network The second digit will be a 0 or 1, 0 is an SAE or universal, and a 1 is a manufacturer specific. The next (3rd) digit will be a 1-8 and this breaks down the problem to a specific area. x1xx codes are fuel/air, x2xx codes are injections controls, x3xx codes are ignition system/misfire x4xx codes are aux emissions controls, x5xx codes are vehicle speed and idle control, x6xx codes are computer output circuits, x7xx and x8xx are transmission systems And finally the last 2 digits will be the actual code it's self, and can be 00-99 depending on the codes it's self.

Might want to have that looked at. If you drove 100 miles and then it set the light, then there is prolly something wrong with the system. In my experience teh computer will notice a missing fuel cap within a few minutes/miles of start up. The computer should have run an EVAP monitor several times over that milieage, and set the light a lot sooner, either that or it's not the EVAP code that got set. Unless of course you happent to drive a specific routine every day, that stays outside the conditions that the computer will run the EVAP monitor, and then suddenly at the end of that hundred miles you did something different (went in the hills, long trip ect). Either way, should prolly go down to Schucks/Checker/Kragen or Autozone, and have them pull the codes out for you, just to make sure that it's not something a little more important (O2, knock sensor, cranks sensor, ect...)

With welders, they run off the amount of voltage and amperage run through the metal. If you are running on your lowest setting, and still burning holes in the metal, then drop the voltage even more. To do this, the easiest way is to go out and get some good size lengths of heavy duty extension cords. I have 3 25 footers that I use. As you use more footage, this adds more resistance to the line into the welders, and thus, produces a lower output. So that if you are using a 110volt unit, and you have a 50 foot extension leading to it, then you will be running off approximatly 90 volts. At least with my power at my house this is how it is. I drop about 10 volts every 25 feet. Your results may vary. In the end though, it allows you to put down nice long beads that will hold better and go faster than tacking, grinding, tacking grinding, tacking....you know the drill.

On the A/c problem, did the origonal VW A/c have the compressor mounted on the motor?? (Don't work on veedubs much, sorry) If it does, and still has the hoses, you can retrofit them to the Subie pump. Just get the Soob hose ends that connect to the pump. Then taking a cut off wheel (dremel works good), cut the crimped bands off the A/c hose end, then with a razor cut away the last inch or so of hose, you will be left with a barbed hose end. You can then push this into the existing hose (after you cut off the veedub ends) and then use TWO hose clamps and secure the ends to the hoses. Have done this on several occasions. Then if all the other stuff is good (condenser, evaporator, reciever/dryer, pressure switches, wireing) you should be able to hook up the stock A/c wires to the pump, charge the system, and chill baby! :cool:

The window interlock switch is in the master. If you remove the master switch, it's the same as pushing the lock button the master switch, and disables all the other switches. What you could do is just look at the two wires (or is it 4, can't remember at the moment), that go into the lock switch, and then just connect the two of them together, and ditch the swtich.

Actually EGR doesn't have anything to do with fuel/air mix. That is why they only open during cruise over a certain RPM when engine loads are at their most and steadiest, your carb still pulls in the same amount of air and fuel (or fuel injection maintains 14.7 stoich). The only purpose of the EGR (Exhaust gas recirculator) is to lower the combustion temperatures, and there for lower the NOx. Oxides of nitrogen, cause smog, low altitude ozone layers (bad for humans to breath), and nitric acid (acid rain). As far as the EGR "bleeding" off exhaust pressure, this is also a myth, the maount of EGR flow that is directed into the intake is minimal to the amount that flowing through a stock exhaust. Every race and high performance car that I have built has had the EGR system either disabled, removed, or not even installed. In cap, the EGR is an emissions device, disabling it will have the same effects as removing the ASV valve. As far as the curing of the code, I've had some things, as simple as changing a spark plug wire, to as hard as basically rewireing half the car cure codes before. And mechanics, they can soak you for a lot, I know, many a day I run into people that if I was that way, could soak the heck out of em for almost anything. (Why yet sir, your 99 ford has a bad set of points in it. But your in luck, we happen to have a set in stock, and can sell em to ya for a mere $95.99)

The EA81's do have a tendancy to do this, cause of the short negative cable going to the battery from the front of the block. Things actually get corroded, and gummed up, taking the starter on and off, separating the tranny and engine, then the starter doesn't ground right, and it starts searching for new grounds, (i.e. the sensor ground on the spare tire carrier, the throttle cable, ect.). And if you paint your engine, or tranny, specially the bellhousings!! Wooh, your in for some trouble then. Subaru actually discovered this problem, and corrected it with the EA82's (looks where the neg cable on them is).

Yup, dem the rims that I've been running with 235/75-15's for the last 5 years, no real problems. Here's a pic w/ a 4" lift and the 235/75 mud terrains; Oh yeah, btw, I got my rims for free, with some 45% life tires on them. Just ask around, specially people that own K5 Blazers, they came stock on em, and when people upgrade, they usually get stuck in the backyard, in shed somewhere cause no one really wants em.

You really want a good clutch, check out http://www.clutchnet.com/make/subaru.html Get the 6 puck sprung hub, that will give you some real power transfer, plus they handle heat better. I do believe that it's #10701 for the EA81 w/ 4spd D/r and 10700 w/ 5spd D/r.

If you did the work on one head, and not the other one, and it ran all right on before the repair, then it would run on the side that you didn't remove the head. That would lead me to believe that there was a problem with the repaired side. But since it won't run at all, then it leads me to believe that it is a problem with the over all motor, i.e. fuel or spark. Since it is backfireing that would lead me to believe that it is getting fuel. And since it IS backfireing, I would go with a timing issue. Either the cam timing is off, and it's fireing when the valves are open or slightly open, or the spark timing is off. Thos would be my first checks, the spark and valve timing.

You guys on the other side of the lake do have a lot of stuff we don't have in the states, but then again, most of your regulations offset that. Here in the states we can get away with a lot of stuff. You start by showing this pic http://usmb.net/albums/assorted/lift.jpg to your engineer and see what they say about it. It is a 6 inch lift that I used on my rig. I'm thinking that the bracing should prolly be acceptable, and if not, shouldn't take too much more. As far as power to tires go, I had a mild built EA81 and ran 29.6" tires without any problems. This was with the stock 4spd, and still had full use of 4th gear. Lotsa luck to ya. Hope this all works out for ya.

The Legacy of course. It's got A/c (which counts out 4 rigs), and a back seat (which counts out the 5th). So out of the 6, it was the only one I could bring a little baby home in 105 degree weather.

Thanks everyone. We are home now, 3 days in a hospital is not my idea of fun. Passed by a pawn shop on the way home with a bunch of shotguns in the window, yep, gonna have to get a couple more.. Me and the wife agree's when we got married to have kids when we were 25, welp, almost she was born just 14 days shy of my 25th. Not too shabby planning if ask me. Life has already started changing. The drive home from the hospital I was doing exactly the speed limit on the freeway, and I was able to spot 10 times more people doing stupid stuff than normal. That and we all my nieces and nephews I could only stand to hold them for a little while, then it was back to mommy or daddy. Now, my wife can't turn her head without me taking my little baby girl to my chair and just sittin there looking at her. She's so beautiful!!! And I"m thinking that if she's anything like her dad, she'll be cruising around in an 07 Baja, all jacked up on 32's with lotsa lights and "character" dents!!

At 12 noon yesterday, we welcomed into the world Sylvia Katriana, at 9Lbs 14oz, and 21" long. Beautiful baby girl!!! Dark hair, light eyes, and the funniest nose I've ever seen (she must have mine). Now that she's here, I can actually signify having the Leg wagon!!!