Adam N.D.J.

Just grab a driveline out of an "AWD" volvo. The AWD systems on them work just like the idea that you have. They have a fulltime 4wd gear box thats always feeding power to the rear output, then they have a viscouse couple just off the rear differential that takes up the slack, er, or lack of it anyways. What year did they start with the X720?(I tink), might be able to find one in a wrecking yard, it's been a little while.

The origonal sensors on the engine are screwed directly into the aluminum, I don't see it couldn't be drilled and tapped to accept the fitting for the aftermarket guage. Just be careful where you drill the hole at. Also it is better to drill it off the car, where you can clean it up real good after. But you could also just coat the drill bit (and the tap after that) with a real good blob of grease, and that will pretty much hold all the shavings. Lotsa luck.

one way that I was thinking of doing this is to tap into the module signal from the computer, run this to another module that would pulse the injector at the same speed that the engine is running. Have this set up to run off a pressure sensor, so that when you hit say 10psi, the fifth injector starts recieving signal. And if your at 10psi at 3K rpms, that would work out to about 40% duty cycle on the injector, then as you go up in rpm, (and boost) the injectors duty cycle increases so that when you hit 6K rpms, the injector is full open (100% duty cycle). Just some thoughts that I have been playing around with.

Definatly an interesting idea. I was looking into this myself. Seems to be the the early 90's ford probes (my test subject was a 93) have similar rear calipers. What you would have to do is remove your caliper, then remove the bracket, then bolt on the ford bracket, then put the caliper on that. Never got around to go really in depth with it, just checking basic bolt spacing and whot not. But if someone wants to give it a try. Also for the quad brake system, all you have to do is change your levers from horizontal to vertical, this will allow you room for four where there was for one, plus it will be easier to get a hold of one single lever, or two at a time, and the layout would be easy to use, because the location in the cab would be the same as the wheel they go to.

The green connectors are your memory connectors, they are for checking the codes in the computer. The D-check connectors, or test connectors as they are sometimes called, are the other set. I do believe they are black, but can't specifically remember, I know they are on the Brat. Also you have to make sure that your TPS is adjusted correctly. If the idle switch in the TPS isn't closed, then the computer won't go into test mode, and you can't check the timing. I agree with the run the engine without the accessory belts, that will narrow things down a bit. Your cams and cranks should not squeak, if they do, then you have a pretty bad problem (i.e. no lubrications). I would go after the T-belt tensioners though, they do have a pretty rough life, and those bearings only last about as long as the belts do. A typical belt job for me includes replacing the idlers and tensioners. Don't worry too much about the breaker bar. The worst thing about that is that you broke the sending unit. In fact, this is how many of us loosen up the bolt on our rigs (least I do when I don't have my air tools). This is a pretty tough problem, lots of things that got changed at one time, a whole lot of variables. But we should really start with the timing. With these optically controlled trigger fuel injection systems, a lot of problems can be had by the dizzy being off by even the slightest. We will get it fixed for ya though.

Thats what D-check mode is for, when you plug in the connectors under the dash (or is it in the engine compartment by the fire wall for the Gen III) either way, you all know the ones I'm talking about. When you plug them in, it shuts up the computer, so that it does not control the timing or fuel mixture anymore, basically the computer goes into UA, or uncalculated algorithm, or as most now it, limp in mode. This is when you set the timing, while the computer doesn't control it, then you disconnect the plugs, and if your still watching, the computer will then move the timing to where it wants it. Hey Marck, that is actually a pretty good idea. You should plug in the connectors, set the timing to base, then while still watching with the timing light, disconnect them, and watch what happens to the timing. If it goes to way retarded, then you know that there is definatly something wrong with the knock sensor.

Is your cap and rotor new? And if they aren't are they actually in good shape, and is the bolt in the rotor tight? I know that a loose rotor bolt can cause a lot of problems. Also did the you set the timing with the D-check connectors connected?? This can also cause some problems if it isn't. Hmm, definatly sounds like you have a pretty good problem going on, and it sure is hard to work on a car when your not with it. But we'll all try to help you out. As for the knock sensor, it may not be the problem. If you are having a problem thats making the engine shake it's self to death then it can actually make the knock sensor over active, then the computer will retard the timing as far as it can and still make it run, then it will set a code when that doesn't stop it. I've never heard of a resisitance check on a knock sensor, I don't see how it would work at all. Most knock sensors that I know of (including subie's) are piezo electric generators, so here is how you should test it, hook up your multimeter to both leads on the knock sensor, put it on AC voltage, the lowest voltage setting if it's adjustable, then tap lightly on the block near the sensor with a hammer handle, every time you do this, you should see a voltage spike, if you do not, then there is a problem with the knock sensor. Hope this helps you out, let us know if you come up with anything else.

Having any air in the system will severely diminish the ability of the A/c system to work. If you open the system to atmosphere, then close it back up and then just put the refrigerent in there, you will have A LOT of air in there too. A/c systems don't like to have air in them. To get a good working system you will need to put the system into a deep vacume for at least 2 hours. Then add your refrigerent. The best way to do it is to turn on the A/c, with the engine running, then start putting it in the low side, once the pressure gets up high enough, the compressor will kick in, and it will suck the rest of the can out. If memory serves me correctly, a Soob uses about 18oz of R134a. Remember, 135a is more dense than R12, so you need less of it to fill the system up. I don't really condone untrained people to work on A/c systems (as most of the time I'm the one that has to fix their mess ups.) But this should help you out with getting your system working. And remember, you must use a can of R12 to 134a retrofit kit. If not, the mixing of 12 and 134 without the proper chemicals to make them compatable, then it can have way more distasterous effects than just rotted seals.

Hmm, an earthquake huh. Start with the simple stuff, if you had the engine out, make sure that the motor mounts are good and tight, been a couple times that I've put the nuts on, but got sidetracked and forgot to tighten them. Then work your way up from there. Make sure the timing is on, both cam and ignition. Make sure all the plugs are fireing right, no crosssparking, check fuel pressure and injector operation. Sounds like you did quite a bit to the engine, so just double check that everything on it is right, the answer most of the time is the most simplest though. Lotsa luck.

The computers in the Brat's were very very very simple. The average wrist watch has more processing power. They can't be "flashed" there is nothing in there to flash. Basically they are just a big on/off switch. If your going for power, then you should look into either an aftermarket carb, or a fuel injection system.

Hmm, good question, I'll find out this October for ya'll (will be in Tokyo for a while!!!!)

Too bad your going to Sand Lake. Now if you were going to the Oregon Dunes National Park (Coos Bay, OR), I would meet up with you, as I will be there that weekend. Not sure what I'm going in as of yet, (Hmm, the Turbo or the Legacy, decisions, decisions). Either way, I like the Dunes Park a little better, bigger, better dunes, more beach!!

On my offroad and race built rigs, I run the fuel pump directly from the power junction box, then to a toggle switch that connects it to ground all the time. (i.e. basically run straight to the battery) So if you wire it directly to the battery, it will work, if it is good. I would definatly say that either you have the polarity crossed, or you have a bad pump.

If I'm thinking right, then it is in the distributor. Basically it's job is to tell the fuel pump relay that the engine is running, and ohkay to pump fuel. And in the even that you get into a collision, and the engine stops, then the fuel pump will stop pumping fuel, through a possibly broken fuel line, onto a hot exhaust, causeing a fire. . . . . It's a safety issue. Usually it's one of those works or don't work, not a sometimes kinda thing. Could be wrong though, have seen wierder things happen.

Here's the down and dirty version Gen I - 1979 and older body styles, most commonly came with EA71's (1.6L) divided into Stage I and Stage II (77.5-79) Gen1 Brats are 1978-1981 Gen II - 1980-1984 for wagons, sedans and coupes, 1982-1987 for Brats and 1980-1989 for Hatch's. Most commonly refered to as EA81 (1.8L OHV) body style, but did came with EA71's in certain models. Had 4spd 4WD tranny's in S/r and D/r Gen III- 1985-1992 Ran the EA82 (1.8L OHC) and ER27 (2.7L OHC H6) Came with 5spd 4WD D/r and S/r transmissions, later models had the FT4wd trans New Gen's - 1990-present, this includes the EJ engines 16, 18, 20, 22, 25, EG33 and EZ30 These are all the current 4 valve motors (4 valves per cylinder). Come in SOHC and DOHC variations. Inhabit the Legacy, Impreza, Forester, Baja and Tribeca's (there are designations to identify the different years and body styles of the New Gen stuff, but you'll have to go to the other side of the board to get that info, I don't really dive into them that much. Hope that this helps ya out.

Right now I'm just looking at how much of a demand there is. I haven't had a Legacy tranny in my hands as of yet, so I don't know what it would take to put in 4.11 gears. I know that 3.90 isn't that hard to do. Also I'm still working on a source for conversion parts. I will only use new stuff, don't want to use junkyard stuff just to have it go bad, that wouldn't help reputation any. I'll take a look into the 4.11's in the next week or so, if I can get a Leg tranny. Looks like people do want this, so it's prolly worth the time to research it.

Just take a look through the pickups at the P&P, I don't think that I've ever seen a Nissan pickup with 5 lugs. You have the opposite problem as me. When I was looking for my wheels, I could only find 14's, thats why I went with the chevy rims. oops, seems I missed that part. Never mind...

That too would not be a problem. Could actually work out a package deal.

A 3.90 ratio RX transmission? We're talking the exact same RX tranny, with the exception that the final drive is 3.90 instead of 3.70 Just wondering if there is really a demand for it, if it's worth it to actually start sourcing transmissions and working on them.

Hey Brian, check out the Marketplace. 84 4wd wagon, I can sell it to you, bone stock for, say 600. Excellent condition, Power steering!, power windows, straight body, good interior, no leaks, has all the emissions stuff on it to please even the most green of californian!!

The models that they got in the Middle East are quite different than what we got here. Where we envy a lot of the stuff that they get down under, those back East would more than likely envy most of what we've got here. Most of the Gen II's were more like our DL's and even less in some aspects. They had 2WD Brats with EA71's in em up till the 90's. Most had S/r 4wd's, some had EA81's. So finding parts for add on stuff like P/s is pretty hard to find over there. (although pug rims are a dime a dozen!). Ezra, welcome to the board. Ohkay, it might be easier to work out a deal with someone from the States for a steering rack and pump. Might be a little easier. If not then you could prolly have a system from the newer generation grafted in. This would require modifying the steering rack to fit into the vehicle as they are wider than the older ones and mounted differently. Then you would have to make up the bracket and mount the pump to the block, then get the right size belt to run it all. Theoritically it can be pretty easy, but it depends on your experience with working with such things as to how hard it can be. Let us know what you come up with, and we can help you through it, one way or another. Lotsa luck.

Soaking in gas isn't such a good idea, as this will harden up and crack your valve seals, which will make your engine suck oil and smoke pretty good. If you pick up a gasket scraper, they work good. If your "ahem" thrifty "ahem", like most of us are, you can get a wide putty knife (about 2-3") and put a beveled edge on it with some fine grit sand paper or a sharpening stone. Use that to scrape off the excess buildup of gasket, then take a long wide strip of 800 grit sand paper, soak it with some WD40, and use a good flat surface (I have a big piece of glass) and run the head over that, it will polish up the surface real good. But don't take off too much material (this would take a long time anyways). You can get steel sanding blocks that are a good sure flat surface for use on the engine block. Then when you get everything all cleaned up good, go out and get yourself a can of Copper Coat, you can pick it up at NAPA. This stuff rocks, we use it at work on all headgaskets that we get in. Put a good even coat on both sides of the gasket, the block, and the head. Don't worry about over spraying into the cylinders and combustion chamber, it will just burn off. Then put everything together while the Copper Coat is still a little tacky to the touch. Make sure you get everything torqued to the right spec and in the right order and you shouldn't have any problems.

Depends on your idea of a block. On "block" (from one side street to the next) are: 82 Brat, 83 Brat, 84 Hardtop, 84 Wagon, 89 3-door, 92 Legacy not in my driveway: 93 Legacy, 2 Loyale wagons In the rest of the neighborhood there are: 94 SVX, 3 OB wagons, 2 Imprezas, 1 Impreza wagon, 5 Legacy wagons, 2 Legacy sedans, 1 WRX, 2 WRX STIs

This is true. The body shouldn't be tweaking to the point that you are relying on the doors to keep it intact. That would mean that you are an East coaster. I drove my Brat around for an entire summer without the doors on it, and suffered no ill effects.

THe throttle body is the same size between the two, but the intakes aren't the same (dual port intake opposed to single port intake). Looks pretty good. Whot chya doing for the hood, to get air to it?