Subyaddict

Amen

that would be my car that Jack is refering to, and I agree with the sludge theory. I spent the first 2k miles changing oil every 500. I also started with Marvel mystery oil as recomended on this board. P.s. this reply is not to boost my car, but to offer my opinion. I was told by CCR,inc. in colorado that the auto has the highest hp to make up for the drivetrain losses associated with automatic transmissions, and accoring to one of my manuals it also has the strongest valve return springs to help it rev higher without valve float. This is my fourth (not on this car) EA81 that I have had the pleasure of driving, and it has definitely proven to be more powerful in the high end with only a mild loss in torque. Also I have never been able to run 87 octane fuel at 10 deg until this motor. Definitely a different cam profile as suggested. Also I bought it from a company that guaranteed it for a year because they do a leakdown and compression test, as well as a rotating assembly test, at least that's what they said.:-)

Yeah just take out the motor, but do the clutch too for sure. And if you can afford it get a clutch that is a little better than OEM. And get the flywheel resurfaced too. This will make the entire setup last much longer next time. As for removing the tranny is concerned, that's easy. But I guess that depends on how much space you have to work with under the car. I always put the car as high up as I can when swapping transmissions. You hit your head less that way too. Nathan

I heard that the 2.5 dohc (like 97+98) have the headgasket trouble usually. If I bought one of those years I would just take off the heads and put copper gaskets in it. They said it was because the cylinders where a little closer together. I am also a firm believer in constant maintenance. If you neglect any car, even a subaru, it will die, guaranteed. Nathan

It seems like with more travel up front (I think that's the point), you would need axles that can take the greater angles for when it is fully compressed. Someone mentioned porche cv axles, or maybe cryogenic treatment like on that other post would solve the problem. The greater angles produce more heat right, so if the axles are tempered, or just stronger to begin with, (like the porche cv) then you could take off the sway bar and put nice and squishy struts on without going through axles . Seems like a great idea for the guys with the rigs that went to Rubicon and such. More articulation would be very cool to see on those old subys. Nathan:headbang:

I put a d/r 5spd out of a loyale or something into my car, it actually turned out to be a 3.7 final so not ALL 5sp transaxles are the same. Easy fix though, I just put in the very common 3.7 lsd rear diff (which Rocks!). EA82 flywheel EA82 clutch disc EA82 Pressure plate EA82 throw-out bearing and fork You will have to check timing by using the #3 spark plug wire instead of the #1 from now on, because the timing marks on the EA82 flywheel are 180 deg opposite the EA81. You may have to make room in the transmission tunnel because the 5speed is a little wider and taller at then tail end. On the two conversionns that I have seen, there is a little bit of the housing that has been removed from the passenger side. Just a little unused bolt hole that sticks out. I just cut it of with a sawz-all because it is aluminium so it's very easy. I also used the two-piece EA82 driveline but I have a wagon so it's the right length. If I remeber correctly the 5sp is about 11" shorter than the 4sp Also make a little room where the dual-range lever linkage goes up into the interior. Probably the hardest part was drilling holes in the original tranny cross-member because it's very hard steel. I think this part would also be a good thing to have made for you by Jerry If you need any more help you can call me. 503-860-2554 Good luck Nathan 1983 gl wagon 4wd d/r 5sp LSD R-discs Japanese Auto motor(higher cam) 180 deg t-stat, 10deg advanced on 87 octane and no detonation 170k on the body, 2-3k so far on the tranny and it's never meen faster. Top speed approx. 95 mph

NGK V-Power gets my vote. New ignition coil, cap, rotor and wires should give you every bit of spark that's possible. Of course you could convert the whole system to MSD, but that gets really spendy. It's supposed to be excellent on low-end torque though. Nathan