BEDFORDSUBARU

Just wanted to give feedback regarding caulking the hole. I had a small piece of the original caulk, including the nipple part that protruded into the hole (nipple probably only protrudes around 1-2mm). I applied a little bit of new household caulk to the old caulk,circling the nipple and stuck it back in/on and then but a little more caulk around it to help secure it. Installed the manifold over the weekend and so far the car seems to run and idle perfectly. If anything changes with the idle then I will update here.

Ok regarding the two sub topics within this post: 1) The small hole on underbelly of the IACV: I am hoping to put the manifold on tonight and if caulking is involved I want to do that very soon so it has some time to dry before I install the manifold. Does anyone know the answers to any of the 3 questions I posed in the original entry? If not, I guess I will go with putting a little white household caulk into and around that small hole and hope for the best. 2) Reattaching that small pain in the rump roast (pita) coolant hose to the IACV: On my 1997 2.5 that hose starts the minor coolant circuit at what I think Fairtax4me is referring to as the crossover tube. The coolant then exits the IACV from a small additional rubber hose which runs up to the throttle body. A third small rubber hose then exits the throttle body and goes to a round metal coolant line that I believe then rejoins the main coolant system right above the thermostat housing. When I did this same head gasket job on this car 8 years ago, even Subaru did not have the part numbers right on the pita hose and that third hose that exists the throttle body. If I recall I actually swapped the the two new hoses and shortened one of them and they matched the original hoses shapes and bends perfectly. I believe I still have the two original subaru plastic envelopes with parts sticker numbers on them if anyone ever need the numbers. Also kept the original hoses I believe. I have found that if the pita hose is oriented correctly as it comes off the crossover tube, and if using the original Subaru shaped hose, that you should be able to slip it onto the IACV nipple without too much problem. Patience is key. Maybe lubing the nipple with a little dielectric grease or equivalent would make it easier. Thanks on any help with 1) and good luck with 2) ! Greg

Any knowledge you can share on this is greatly appreciated. Putting intake manifold back on my 1997 2.5 after completing head job. When I took the manifold off there was a little piece of white hard caulk on bottom side of what I think is called the idle air control valve (IACV). The caulk was barely still affixed and was falling off. Part of that caulk had been pressed into the small hole on the underside of the valve. I am including 3 picutures of my valve as it is attached to the manifold and you can see that hole. I am also including a picuture of a subaru IACV valve that I just borrowed from an ebay listing. In that ebay picture you can see some type of epoxy around the perimeter of the underside and you can see within that yellow epoxy a spot of the white caulk that must go into that same small hole as it was in mine. So my questions are before I put the intake manifold back on the car: ----do i need to plug that little hole up with some type of caulk or material and any idea what i should use? ---- what is the purpose of that little hole, especially if it is supposed to be plugged with caulk ----if i am supposed to plug up that hole but don't, what effects, if any, will happen? Thanks as always! Greg

Thanks for suggestions just got it off but damaged it a bit during process and will replace it but learned as went along i had tried the rubber mallet but that did not work for me,,, engine is in car so tough to get two big screw drivers in but can get behind sprocket on its right side as face it and pull screw driver handle towards you and give a gentle pry out and then turn sprocket the other way as far as it will easily go and then a gently pry out on that side and keep going back and forth repeating the process i learned at end if screw bolt on till it almost touches the sprocket and then look from side as turn the sprocket, that if distance between the sprocket and the bolt head varies as turn the sprocket then that shows one side of the sprocket has come off more than other side so then work the side that has not come off as far little at a time and back and forth and sprocket eventually came off if ever have to do it again i think will be able to get it off without damaging the sprocke,,,, will put anti sieze on all 4 when put it back together,,, thanks again for suggestions - is greatly appreciated!

Any suggestkions greatly appreciated. 1997 2.5 dohc engine. Replacing head gaskets. Removed bolts to all 4 cam sprockets and 3 sprockets came off easily, but the right intake will not come off, even after flooding bolt hole with penetrant several times and letting sit all night. Suggestions please. Am hoping to get camshafts and heads off today. Thanks!

Correction to my last post: I meant to say: As far as using the slide hammer while the hub is in the car, I tried to envision what parts may get stressed each time the slide takes place. It seems it would be at the points that secure the KNUCKLE (not the hub) to the car, especially the control arm ball joint and the steering arm ball joint. If true, I wonder if there any chance of damaging the joints when using the slide hammer this way. This ever been discussed? Thanks again, Greg

Thanks for the replies and information and links. All greatly appreciated. Today I bought seeming good used assembled knuckle/hub/bearing units, one for each front side. Tomorrow I will try to swap the driver unit one with the one in my car. That seems like a fairly simple job (I know, don't ever say that) which should minimize down time for the car. With the car then back on the road I will then take my time dismantling the removed unit and putting in new bearings, etc. From what I could tell from your replies and links, its seems like the answer to one of my questions is NO, the Harbor Freight Bearing kit (66829?) can not be used to separate the hub from the knuckle, with the hub/knuckle still in the car. Sounds like you need the slide hammer tool to do that. Please let me know either way if my understanding is correct. As far as using the slide hammer while the hub is in the car, I tried to envision what parts may get stressed each time the slide takes place. It seems it would be at the points that secure the hub to the car, especially the control arm ball joint and the steering arm ball joint. If true, I wonder if there any chance of damaging the joints when using the slide hammer this way. This ever been discussed? Thanks again for your 2 feedbacks. It will make my job much easier and is greatly appreciated! Greg.

Hi, I need to do front wheel bearings on my 97 Outback Station Wagon with ABS. I've read the threads here, some of which reference Hub Tamer, as well as a reasonably priced alternative front end tool kit from Harbor Freight. My Questions: 1) Will either or both equip me to press the hub out of the knuckle. If yes, will does the knuckle first need to be removed from the car? 2) If these tools will not press the hub out of the knuckle, anyone have a suggestion for a tool that would? 3) While several threads here have referenced the Harbor Freight tool kit, I have not seen any that provide the product number or specific name. Can someone let me know the number? -------Thanks for all and any help. If anyone has any hints/suggestions/warnings on various aspects of the job (or links to videos that show the job being done) that is also very greatly appreciated. Enjoy your Thanksgiving! Greg

Hi John, Thanks for the welcome and the feedback. Any idea what a reasonable amount of time is for a Subaru dealer to install a new bearing? Also, is it OK to replace the bearings on just one side of the car? Also, no way a loosened axle nut could cause similar symptoms? I had read somewhere on the site (but maybe was for different model/year) that the nut sometimes loosens and causes some symptoms. Thanks again. Greg

Hi, I have a 97 legacy outback limited wagon with 2.5 liter engine. 250k on the car. When start driving and get to around 15mph, a rythmic noise starts, the best I can explain it would be like a WHA - WHA - WHA sound and would guess frequency at approximately 1 RPM tire rotation and frequency speeds up as go faster. It seems like coming from front and more towards driver side. Pretty much goes away when get to 65-70 mph. Is fairly loud and does create some noise vibrations in front but not bad. Car tracks straight and steering is responsive and tight and not seem to have uneven tire wear. I guessed might be tires or wheels but put on two different sets of tires/wheels and does the same thing. When those other tires/wheels put on my second 97 legacy there is no such noise so it is not a tire or wheel problem. ---If anyone has any best guesses on this or things I can check, then please let me know. Any help/thoughts are greatly appreciated. I'm thinking is from front end but don't let me prejudice your thoughts. Could also be drive shaft from trans to rear differential or something else also???? Thanks for all!!! Greg