03aksuby

So when I sent power to them could I have fried them? Thanks Aaron

Its a 93 EJ22 N/A motor. I don't think it is the ECU because Im still getting power from it. I think it could be that I fried either the cam or crank angle sensors trying to wire hot wires to the signal [+]. Do the signal [+] pins on the ECU even need power? Thanks for you help bheinen74 I will let you know if I need any help.

I have taken a step backwards! It now won't start at all! I tried running power wires to the cam and crank angle sensors and shorted them out. Is it possible that I fried something? Is there a way to check? Is there a way to test the ECU?

I had another legacy right next to it and swapped out the parts. Both cars were running before the swap. I will keep in contact with you as I could possibly need your help.

Bumppp trying to get this running right!

This may be a basic questions, but I thought I would check it out since everything that has been mentioned has checked out A-OK. Should the Cam and Crank angle sensors be getting power at their plugs in the engine bay?. I checked the signal [+] for both of these and they both had power; however, neither one has power at their plug in the engine bay? Also another question just to clear up confusion. The plug to the coil pack has 3 wires going to it from the ecu side of the engine bay plug (yellow, red/green (or blue), and one more. However the point is that on the coil side of the plug there is a yellow, a blue, and red wire. The two yellows don't fall into the same location on the plug. Should I be jumping the yellow wire from the ecu to the plug or the yellow wire on the coil side of the plug?

Can anyone at least tell me what the white/red wire is off of this relay? Thanks Aaron

Anyone have any ideas?

Okay I checked all of the wires from the coil pack and from the ignitor for continuity and I found something I have a question about. There is a yellow wire (the middle of the three wires) that runs from the center of the plug that connects to the coil pack's wires to a small brown relay. The relay has a few other wires going to it (white/red and lime green red/blue). -What does the yellow wire do at this relay? -During the thinning down of the harness I cut the white/red wire from the relay, Is this bad? Here are some pics of the relay:

I have tried two coil packs, two ignitors and two ECU's. I traced the wires from the ignitor to the ECU and everything is still intact?

Well I put the exhaust on and it was then made apparent that I am only running on two cylinders (3 & 4). I can pull the coil wires for 1 & 2 completely off of the coil pack and it does not affect how it runs. What could the problem be that is causing this?

The jumper worked and it fired right up!!!!!! :banana: Just a few questions: -Where did you guys permanently run the jumper from? -What colors are the wires for the gauges (I have the two plugs that plug into the Legacy cluster do I need all of those wires?) Thanks Aaron

Okay I will add some grounds and give the jumper a shot.

I have the c10 wire covered, however, i didn't run anything to the starter solenoid (EA starter solenoid I assume)… Is this needed? The red, blue, and yellow wires show power while cranking as well in the on position. If they are getting power while cranking would jumping it with a hot wire be any different? Thanks Aaron

I am sorry to start yet another "my ej wont fire up after swap" thread but I am on the verge of lighting the project on fire I have the ECU Pinouts wired as Numbchux diagram suggests and yes I have read through the thousands of threads on this topic and tried all of the suggestions without any luck. I am getting fuel and I am also getting power (while cranking as well) to the coil pack, injectors, ignitor etc. yet no spark. I have switched coil packs and ignitors off of another EJ22 and still no luck. Where does the coil pack get grounded? Where it bolts to the intake manifold? Could this be the problem? Thanks Aaron

Thanks for the responses guys. I figured running an entire harness would allow me to revert to it for things such as radio, entire legacy gauge swap etc. because the Brat's harness was hacked up beyond all reason by the previous owners. The harness actually fits very nicely into the Brat on the passenger side. I will keep you posted. Thanks Aaron

Okay I am currently in the middle of an EJ22 into Brat swap and I have ran into a problem. I pulled the entire wiring harness from a 93 Legacy and planted the entire wiring harness (fuseboxes and all) into the brat. I am now needing assistance on how to get switched power to the EJ wiring harness. Currently the only power to the EJ wiring harness is the power wire from the engine bay fuse box to the battery. I obviously need switched power in order to power the fuel pump. I would love some advise. Things to note: -I have not touched any part of the EA harness -The only connection between the EA and EJ harness is at the Positive terminal of the battery. -I cut the fuel pump assembly out of the legacy tank and welded it into the brat tank (plugs straight in from the EJ harness) Thanks in advance.

Did you find the pics here on USMB?

I am in the process of completing a EA81-EJ22 swap. I have stripped the entire wiring harness out of the Legacy and am just planning on running two wiring harnesses in the Brat. There are a few questions I have. First off I am planning to modify the Brat's dash to accomidate the Legacy gauge cluster to eliminate the hassel of oil pressure, temp etc. Do you believe this is possible? Or would it be easier to modify the Legacy dash to fit into the brat? I think the first option would be easier due to the duct work differences in the two vehicles. Lets hear your opinions.

Bringing this one back from the dead.... Do you have any more pics of the rear subframe/strut tower process? Also how is it holding up so far?