magnus freeman

Some more info... Only seems to idle rough when it's cold, and putting the transmission in Drive, stalls. But once it warms up a bit, it idles and drives pretty good. Before the timing belt change, it did not do this. It would drive cold.

How much it LOTS? I could use some winnings. New to the board doesn't mean non-subaru person. I'd like to think I'm not a complete noob...this is my second Sube, I've rebuilt a dozen Japanese engines, and built 3 rally cars.

So I looked into the airbox, handled every vacuum line I could identify, wiggled all the electrical connectors, started it up, and it ran a little rough at first, then ran fairly cleanly. Drove it around the block, and it runs 90% smooth. Hmm. :-\

We didn't mess with any fuel lines whatsoever. I thought maybe a fuel filter clogged, but that would have manifested before the timing belt replacement. VACUUM...actually you might be on to something there; the way the engine runs, a vacuum leak or lock sounds like it could be a good possibility...it's that type of idle. However, I don't see any vacuum lines disconnected, . . . but . . . . . . does the transmission fluid use vacuum to pump fluid up into the tranny fluid filter and radiator? Because if it does, we may have caused a vacuum lock when we started it briefly with that disconnected, and it spewed tranny fluid out the lines. I didn't know what those lines were for until that happened.

The belt had slipped initially, as I said, when we were turning the crank/cams by hand (probably because we hadn't pulled the pin yet), so we took off the belt, turned all three sprockets around clockwise by hand until they lined back up, then put the belt back on. I'm wondering if this step caused a 33.3, 90, or 180 out condition, if that's even possible. That's the only thing I can think of. The first time we turned it over, before we put the covers and other belts back on, it started for a second. We stopped it and noticed that the belt seemed to have jumped a full tooth on *all three* sprockets, which shouldn't matter one iota, so we left it because the tick marks were all still aligned with each other. The crank pulley coming loose only messed up the keyway on the pulley itself, which we replaced. The keyway on the crank and on the sprocket were still perfectly good, no slop, and the new key we bought was directly from a Subaru parts counter. Yes, the new key was dead on at 6 o'clock when we put the timing belt on because that's where it lands when the tick marks are aligned correctly.

Correct, did not use the arrow on the main cam, used the tick mark on the back flange and lined it up with the tick mark above. The key was at the bottom. In fact, the arrow was worn off the main cam because the bolt came loose and the back of the pulley ground off the front of the cam. Also used the front lines on the cam sprockets.

Nope, we used the right tick marks, I checked multiple sources before we pulled the pin. We did have the timing belt slip when we were turning it by hand to make sure there was no interference...we then took the belt back off, turned all three sprockets clockwise back to the marks and reinstalled the belt. Could one of the pulleys have been turned one too many or one too few times, or can this engine even be 180 out?

EJ22, 1991 Legacy, automatic, no turbo. Changed out timing belt, water pump, main pulley, woodruff key. Now when we start it, the engine idles rough for a few seconds, then revs cleanly to about 2000 RPM, then returns to crappy idle and/or dies. Throttling causes bogging and/or the engine to die. Nothing else changed that we know of . . . Did we put something back together wrong? Please help. :confused: