Stephen J

I tried to cram most of the details in the title. When this quite working, we pulled the cluster and pulled the cable from the tranny. Twisting one end turned the other end. definitely stiff but it did turn. So, we moved the car while looking down into the hole in the top of the tranny. It doesn't appear to be turning. We only moved a few feet but I would assume that would be enough to see it turn. Has anyone ever heard of an internal mechanical failure in the tranny that would cause this? The car drives and shifts normally. Thanks, Stephen

I tested the throttle closed switch part of the TPS and it checked out. Heard from a long time used Subaru dealer/mechanic/shop owner that the Cam Angle Sensor is most likely my problem. Getting a used one this weekend. BTW if anyone needs used Subi parts in the NW, lookup Mountain Tech Subaru in Oregon City, OR. They have a warehouse of parts as they part out DOAs before sending them to the crusher. My dad's '99 Outback is getting a new hood painted to match from them after a furry four legged creature decided to act like a Deer in the headlights. Oh, yeah, it was a deer. Typical. Stephen

I disconnected the battery for a minutes as the Haynes manual says that will clear the codes. Not sure. When I turned the key back on, the codes were still there so either it didn't clear or they are the kind of codes that it senses immediately on power up. Stephen

Okay, I got the codes and they are listed in the order that it displayed them: 31 Throttle Sensor 32 Oxygen Sensor 13 Cam Angle Sensor "A faulty TPS can cause driveability problems such as hesitation, stalling, an erratic idle, pinging (spark knock), no torque converter lockup, hard starting, an intermittent check engine light while driving, poor fuel economy, and generally poor engine performance." (Wells Counterpoint Volume 2, Issue 1) The TPS sounds like a likely candidate. Might fix my hard starting problem too as well as explaining why the Torque Converter unlocks even if it didn't really loose any speed. So, with it being the first code given does that make it the oldest or most recent code? Thanks Stephen

About a week ago my car started doing something funny. I was driving down the road and it was like the engine cut out briefly. It has begun doing it more frequently. To me it feels like ignition is going away briefly on all cylinders. It generally does it when I am cruising. It hasn't done it under heavy power. The worst time it did it the check engine light came on momentarily. There are two other things that I am experiencing that I will relay in case they are related. Has real trouble starting below 32 deg. Have replaced the Coil Pack and the engine temp sensor but it didn't help. Generally warming up the engine compartment allows it to start. It acts mostly like it has no spark. Just cranks with no signs of life. Modulating the pedal a lot gets it to pop a little. (I know it is Injected) I haven't been able to identify any specific part that needs warmed in order to get it to start. My tranny has also been acting up a little. Long gaps between shifts causing revs when I am pushing it before the torque converter grabs it. I checked the fluid and it looked okay and didn't smell burned. Thanks, Stephen

Thanks all for your ideas. My Subi now has a new engine temp sensor. Still won't start. It seems like if I tap the gas, just a light tap but a bunch of times, it kind of sputters then goes back to cranking with no pops. Any other ideas? Thanks, Stephen

Found it and the problem. Both wires were totally corroded out of the connector to the Circuit Breaker. In fact, one of the spades in the connector broke out and is still buried in the female and I can't see it through the blue corrosion. I have a hunch that might be the problem. Thanks for the help. Stephen p.s. kind of a stupid place to put it IMHO

Trying to help my brother in law out. His 92 Legacy's power windows don't work. None of them. I have been trying to figure out where the fuse or breaker and relay are that the manual suggests should be there and I can't find them. Are they in the door or under the dash? Does anyone have a link to a picture or diagram of where they are? Thanks, Stephen

So I got it started. Left the a heater blowing onto the top of the engine with a piece of cardboard and a blanket over it. The intake manifold was warm to the touch. Cranked it and it didn't just fire right up but tapped the gas a couple times and it sputtered to life. The exhaust smelled very rich. Ran rough but slowly brought it up to 1500rpm and it smoothed out. Thought I would add that to see if it gave anyone any ideas. Thanks, Stephen

Thank you for the welcome. The overhaul was done just before I got it. I don't know about before unfortunately. When it is running, the check engine light is not on. It alternates on and off when cranking. Is this expected behavior? It does seem to crank as I would expect it to. Thanks for the reply. Stephen

Okay, I promise I searched in the forum and read the whole "Common questions" thread. Sorry if I missed a thread about this, my apologies. Car: 92 Legacy Automatic - 135K miles - Engine just overhauled with all the usual. So obvious answer is water in the fuel I know but, there is fuel on the engine side of the filter under pressure, I have used up most of a tank of gas, put some more in from a different station, used half, put a whole bottle of Heet in it and drove it another 40 miles. Whenever it gets cold(below 32) it won't start. Just sits there and cranks. Every time I have warmed up the engine compartment and it will then start after a lot of cranking. It kinda barely eventually gets away from the starter to finally start. I just had the heater blowing directly on the filter box and MAF Sensor long enough that it was warm to the touch. Still wouldn't start. The heater is now heating the whole engine compartment. Any ideas? Thanks in advance, Stephen