l75eya

Well like I said take the covers off. If you're not comfotable doing that, then wait. You need to see if the belts are broken and, if not, that the two cam sprocket timing marks are 180* opposite. 12 and 6.

And then again even if they are both turning, they might have jumped and the only reason it's not running is the timing is off.

Well if you let it sink, take the motor off first. Did you check the timing belts or not? I mean considering it's not in a car, all you have to do is remove the bolts and take off the plastic covers and look! And if they're not visibly broken, crank it while you look at the belts and make sure they're both turning.

Pretty sure the bolts are steel, so you most likely did no damage to the threads on the bolt. It's the threads on the aluminum block that are most likely damaged. Not that that matters. Find out the thread size pitch that it is stock, Google the very next bigger size, buy that size tap kit, drill it out with the correct size bit for that tap, tap it, install new bolts.

Timing belts.

Did you find this out in a bad way? Just curious.

looks like it came out pretty good! Glad I was able to influence you to keep it going! You did an awesome job.

Leave it up on jackstands. Also.. Getting the spare out looks to be a pain? I hope you never have to lower one from under a van! Removing the spare from under the hood is like the easiest thing ever lol.

Jes zek thanks for the tidbit on the return spring. I removed my cable but just left the fork lay there. I will add a spring. This thread was a great idea OP.

+1 you're going to have to get to the timing belts.

My cousin had one of these and so did my brother. Could drive 200 miles and the needle would barely move! Will it have to cheat emissions? :-P

Thoughts: Your section of repair hose, how's it look? It hasn't failed right? She had added generic power steering when it called for dex. Power steering fluid is thicker than dex, it would have made her steering stiffer than factory and would have been more labor on the pump and more psi in the hoses. I just went through bleeding a rack when I had the PS drained in the Loyale. What a pain. Having the tires in the air helped big time. First I turned the wheels lock to lock like 3-4 times with the car off, then I did it with the car running but like 50 times. With the cap on the reservoir. No power steering at all is odd. I'd add more fluid and turn lock to lock tires in air car off a couple times then check to see if level went down at all. Very bizarre, sucks when you try to help a friend and something dumb like this happens.

4 flat!? Wow! Subscribed! :-) best of luck with her!

I see you beat the **** out of the dent/crease that was in the drivers front fender as well. Win/win! I love this car!

Ooh the intermittent wipers on my GL took the word intermittent very seriously. When the wiper stalk was on the intermittent setting, when the wipers went to activate, they would only move about 2 inches, then stop........ Move another 4 inches, stop..... Move an inch, stop, move 2 inches, stop... Proceed through the rest of the swipe and return. Then they'd pause the standard time, and repeat. Wonder if that was in anyway related to the pressure sensitive horn...

The horn on my GL was pressure sensitive. If you just slightly pushed on the steering wheel, it would let out a quiet, polite little squeak. As you pushed harder it would get increasingly loud until it hit full volume. Sometimes when honking at something it would sound like a pubescent teens squeaky voice.

Bahummp.

That's a good one!

Yah but they typically light a match afterwards and then contact their insurance representative. We can't talk about stuff like that on here though. :-P

Finding vacuum leaks you just need a can of starter fluid. While the engine is idling, spray the starter fluid around any vac hoses and their connections and listen to the idle. If the idle changes when you spray somewhere, you have a leak.

Tar. Massive oil leaks.

Still have to drill the holes in the GL hood I used to reinstall the Loyale windshield washer sprayers though.

I would like to remind you all that nothing is impossible: Frame rail: front of car to left. Couple weekends of hammering and bending things: The frame rail is still bent, but it's bent ahead of the suspension so it doesn't affect the geometry of the front track. To attach the bumper I made an extension out of steel plate. Seen below in green: Is it perfect? No, but it looks damn better than it did. BTW before I started, the pass headlight bucket was pushed back about *half a foot* from its proper position as you can see in this dry fit before anything was straightened: Once again this was all done with hammers, wood, jacks and pliers. Nothing is impossible.

Note: I noticed when replacing the tps that there is adjustment in its position as you lock down the two screws. I tried to match it's position based on the marks on the old (original) one.

Auto trans. Ngk wires and plugs, 3-4 years old. Cap and rotor, same age, as is the fuel filter. Timing dead on last time I checked (within the past 2-3 months) No CEL New denso o2 sensor, factory replacement. Just swapped in a different TPS thinking that was the cause. Issue is still present. Around practically 90 percent throttle, you can hear and feel the motor bog down.. Lift a little and it surges. More throttle past 90 percent and it usually downshifts(depending on speed) and pulls hard. Idles beautifully and putts around town great, this is only evident when trying to accelerate hard. When free revving the motor in park or neutral of you kick the pedal WOT out of nowhere it'll miss real quick, and then rev. Kinda like a hiccup. Any ideas on where to troubleshoot without starting to replace components? It's had this issue for awhile now. Thanks for any suggestions in advance.