l75eya

You want the earlier model. Pictured is the rockauto catalogue photo for an 89 with the 3.0. Notice the location of the connectors (black port bottom right view, left hand side) That port on the earlier models is located at the TOP of the alternator when installed in your subaru. The later model alternators you have linked to have the connection at the BOTTOM of the alternator, which will mean you will have to extend your stock wiring to reach it. If that's not a big deal then go for it. With the earlier model alternator, all you have to do is pull the lines out of the harness from your stock set up and plug them on to the spade terminals on the Nissan alt.

Look up the maxima alternator thread, it tells you exactly what alternator to get. Pretty sure mine came from an 89. Make sure you get the pulley lined up as well as you can, I've killed two sets of bearings having the pulley too far forward.

I learned a trick that works so well I wish I'd learned it years ago. I can get a window crank handle off in seconds now. All you need of a rag.. Take one edge of the rag and hold it tight so it's pretty stretched and thin. Insert it, while holding it taught, between the handle and the door card and then move it back and forth in a sawing motion. If nothing happens, try in different spots, round the handle. Some handles have a little circular dust cover between the handle and the door card. You have to try both sides of the dust cover (in front and behind) to see which side the clip is on. It sounds kinda rinky dink, I know, but once you get the method down, you'll have handles off in a matter of seconds. The way it works is the fibers on the cloth will snag on the metal clip that holds the handle on and dislodge it. Sometimes the clip goes flying though, so keep aware.

Hope your able to get it all sorted out!

Horrid smelling you say? Gosh, I love that smell. Not good for the brain though..

Does it fire up with some starting fluid persuasion? Pull the fuel line right off the filter under the hood. Be careful as it's pressurized and will spray a little bit at first. Fuel pump shouldn't make any noise until the key is turned to the on position, at which point it primes the lines for about 1 second then goes quiet until it gets signal the motor is running.

You don't have anything to worry about. You used half a quart over how many miles of driving?

Definitely think you should stick with that theme. No matter the look of any new body parts you buy/add, just leave them the way they are. It's making a very interesting car lol

If you go all MPFI you should upgrade at the very least all the soft (rubber) bits of the fuel lines to high pressure lines. You'll need the XT pump as well.

Dude, awesome work. Congrats on the trophy. Where are you from? Car looks awesome BTW,I was going to say prefacelift that the fender arches would look better painted but with everything out of whack post facelift I think it looks great!

Note in this picture there are no rear axles in place, however if there were they would be passing through the ends of components numbered 2.

Here is a picture of the rear suspension set-up courtesy of our pal Nico's thread on here I numbered the rear end components. Hopefully one of them is the piece you are talking about Which number is your component?

Does this look like the piece? (The part that is behind the wheel and extends off to the right towards the door) http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c108/Numbchux/Miata%20shocks/PICT4673.jpg

Retroroo is the name of the shop. He is recommended because he deals specifically with older Subarus.

LOL these responses though. To the OP, My friend, I admire your dreams, but they are going to have to remain just that, unless you have a bunch of money to burn for the hell of it. Though the idea of the super powerful and super light ecoboost motor mounted under the hood of a Loyale would be a hoot to drive, and I admire the thought that would have otherwise never, ever have crossed my mind; it's not just the FWD configuration that makes the swap do-able. There are other things to factor in, A subaru motor is facing you when you open the hood. The crankshaft is facing the front of the car, the flywheel is facing the back of the car, the cylinders are running along each side of the car. A modern FWD engine is actually sitting in the car sideways. The crank faces either the pass or drivers side and the cylinders are towards the hood or firewall. Subaru boxer engine has the transmission mounted towards the back of the car Modern engines have their transmissions (FWD cars anyway) mounted facing one of the front wheels... It's just all really very complicated and not nearly as straightforward as you are imagining it to be. If you were willing to spend money to make that happen, now that you know it's not possible, take that money and put it towards mounting a more modern subaru EJ series motor in your loyale. Plenty of power, the swap is pretty much straight-forward, and you'll love rallying it like that. Fiesta ST motor though, damn. That would be fun.

If the brat is anything like my old GL, there is no computer. That EGR light is there as a service reminder. It doesn't mean anything is wrong it comes on every 30k miles to remind you to service (inspect, clean) the valve. There should be two same color unhooked connectors one male one female under the dash, you connect them to clear it. This doesn't apply to the fuel injected cars like the OP has.

Patty, try and post a picture of the part that is bent on your car. What it sounds like you are describing is a rear *trailing arm*, not a crossmember.

If I were you I would switch axles side to side, put driver's side on pass and pass on driver's side, see if anything changes. Just a thought. That would help eliminate any chance of it being a bad axle.

I had a similar problem and my driver's side hub was out of round. Do the ea81 cars have the conical washer and the convex washer on the hubs, make sure they are installed properly. You said you tightened the axle nut, Does your axle nut back off on its own at all?

Jeszek thanks for the suggestion. I'll consider doing that when the dealerships run out of stock but for now I ordered 4 of them through Subaru and should have them Thursday. :-) naru thanks again for the part numbers!

Thank you much naru. Is the lock washer the one that is keyed into the spindle and you bend it's edges around the spindle nut?

Reviving this old thread because it's the only one I've found talking about those rear lock washers for the rear bearings on a FWD ea82 car.. Does anybody have a dealer part number for those? Or does anybody know if there's a way to get them aftermarket? The one on my loyale has the keyed portion torn off, so it no longer really locks into the spindle when you slip it on, only the indentation in the bearing.. I would like to replace them on both of my FWD loyales so I need 4 of them.

I think what matters is how high you can get the car. It was a pretty straightforward affair to drop the trans out the bottom with the car up on four ramps.

Looks like a cap nut. Like this: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/55/Domed_cap_nut.jpg

Ooh wipers? If there going to far that means they slipped. Open the hood, look at the arm, where it connects you'll see a nut there. Loosen the nut, move the wipers back down, re-tighten. If that's not what you're talking about then idk.