l75eya

Did you guys see his video? His voltmeter shows 0 and the tach isn't jumping around at all... Clues. Did you try shooting some starter fluid in there and seeing if it jumps to life for a moment? That'll tell you if it's a fuel issue or a spark issue. If it doesn't jump to life, then maybe your distributor has gone and fubar-ed itself. Check that the rotor is still positioned properly. The later model spfi engines have a screw in the rotor that holds it in place but can back out, idk if the 87s have that (mine is carbed) but check it out. The two fast turns while it's turning over also make me suspect timing might be off....idk, keep us posted on what you troubleshoot and what happens. Try the starter fluid, just make sure you clamp the air box shut again after spraying it in there because it could backfire, and if the airbox isn't closed you'll get a nice brief fireball and/or fire if that happens.

I don't know about you guys out west where these cars are still plentiful (compared to here at least) but I've always run in to a lot of trouble getting my tires balanced because nobody has the proper wedge to cup the (gigantic) center hole that the 4x140 rims have, so the rim never sits on the balance machine properly. Maybe when your rims were balanced, it wasn't seated properly and they put the weights on in the wrong spots that could make a slight vibration really bad. However you say it only happens as you're accelerating? So if you accelerate to 65 it shakes on the way there but as soon as you hold the gas pedal steady to maintain speed the vibration goes away? That makes me think bad axle or wheel bearing or hub....

This! The chance of a massive fire is the risk some people are willing to take to have convenient corrosion protection on the undercarriage. As an added bonus if the leak is bad enough, you never have to change your oil as you'll have gone through a fresh five quarts in no time!

Just close your eyes and use your 'magination.

I believe in the three speed!

The Tin Can has received a replacement purge solenoid from the GL that has cured it's code 35 and oxygen sensor codes. It has also received a temporary EGR solenoid from the other Loyale (as it's not being driven much right now). These two things, and a few lines of replacement vac hose has cleared the Check Engine light and the motor is running nice and smooth. Have installed rear speakers from the GL (The incredible, undying factory speakers that have been juiced with way more than their rated 8 watts RMS), took the amp and subs out of the Oldsmobile and they are now taking up plenty of valuable trunk space in the Can. Have noticed damp carpet in the trunk on pass side after the heavy rains we've had. Not sure if it's splashed up through a bit of rust in the wheel arch, or if the GL trunk lid is not sealing well. Oil change from 5/30 to 10/40 later this week as I'm going to be making a 500 mile trip for the fourth of July weekend and, flipping through the owner's manual, found it explicitly stating 5/30 is not recommended for sustained high speed driving. Nothing much else to report other than the exhaust leak is on high priority to fix after somebody yelled at me to slow down, when I was only doing about 15 - 20 mph in 2nd gear. =P TId-bit of history on the Tin Can; The original scheduled maintenance booklet notes that the car was off the road from 11/94 to 2/95 (this Loyale is a 93) due to an accident. That's a damn long time off the road lol, I'm wondering what happened. I did notice frame-rail damage up front. Would never know it though, car tracks nice and straight. Tires wear even.

This happened to my gl recently. I took the drive shaft out and the front u joint was very stiff. I used a ton of pb blaster and worked out all the dirt, the whole time rotating the joint through its movements. A bunch of mud and dry dirt came out of the joint. It steadily got more and more loose and eventually it felt fine. Put it back in the car, shaking gone.

Looks great!

Well, yeah, everybody has their opinion. That's well established in the internet world. On the other hand, the reasoning that it draws the wrong kind of attention is subjective. For example, if the OP lives in a nice suburban neighborhood where everybody drives Ford Tauruses and there is a 9:30 curfew and everybody knows everybody's name, then a window banner is going to probably grab the wrong kind of attention just like a loud exhaust would. If the OP lives in an extremely densely populated urban city, such as I do, then your window banner isn't going to make one bit of difference in the amount of attention your car receives, bad or otherwise. In fact here are a few things that would ordinarily draw the wrong kind of attention but don't; A blown headlight An expired inspection sticker A complete lack of inspection sticker Extremely loud exhaust No exhaust No working brake lights Front tinted windows Neon lights Only having 3 out of 4 wheels freely spinning while you're driving There are a few on that list that I have personal experience with, but my favorite is the last one, which is not a lie. I drove through an intersection, past a police officer sitting at the light on the pass side of my vehicle, with the pass rear tire on my GL completely locked due to broken brake drum hardware. Tire screeching, smoke coming from it, right through the intersection past him and he didn't even bat an eye. AND it had a loud exhaust and only one working headlight. I digress.... Look up some fonts on google, visualize them on your windshield, if you find something you like, then go for it. My ONLY criticism is that early generation subarus are anything but rally bred in my opinion. It's the later gen cars like the Legacy and the Impreza that were bred from the rallying that the earlier gen subarus cut their teeth on, but you do what makes you happy lol!

And YES! Delorean! It's been parked outside my place here for about 2 weeks now. Just moves from side to side as the street sweeper day comes. Oddest thing! Looks so awesome though..

I have! I'm not sure about undertaking a project like that right now though, and, though this Loyale is in really good shape, there are spots of rust that are bordering on bad. Not many, but a couple. Time will tell! Depends on how intense it is to do lol

IT'S ME!!! WHOOOOOOO!!! TIN CAN! TIN CAN! TIN CAN! TIN CAN! Thank you to user tincan for selling him to me. I will carry the torch proud! My thread for the ongoing saga of the TIn Can here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/154228-the-ongoing-saga-of-the-tin-can/

Cats outta the bag! I am the mysterious new owner of user tincan's 1993 5 speed FWD Loyale, the aptly named "Tin Can". Long story short, I happened to be perusing the boards here when he posted a classified ad for the car which I saw pop up under the recent threads section. Literally AS I WAS SENDING HIM A PM about the car, I got a text on my phone, from him (we had exchanged numbers previously) asking me if I wanted to buy it! So I went out the NY and checked it out and it's just what I need to replace my GL and the price was right. Here is a photo tincan took shortly after he got the car; After some time he decided he did not like the dated appearance the side mouldings give the car and they, along with the rear window trim, were stripped. Another of his photos: Sans mouldings and mudflaps user tincan sought to maximize fuel economy from the 1.8 boxer (nicnamed the "ECOBOXER" on the rear tail panel) and got up to a high of 45 mpg or so, if I remember correctly from his thread. Here is the Tin Can under my ownership, stopping at a gas station to fuel up: And a few quick snaps of him posing with Ben, the OTHER 1993 FWD Loyale (auto though) the night I got him home and the next morning. That basically sums up retrieving the car and it's state when I got it. So we'll move on to two days later, today. Thoughtfully, tincan had saved most of the trim he removed from the Tin Can, including the hubcaps, and though the more streamlined look of the Loyale without it's mouldings does look interesting, I mulled it over and decided to replace the fender, door, quarter, and rear window trim. I also replaced the Pass. Side mirror with a donation from my (soon to be scrapped =( ) 87 GL, that can be seen behind the Tin Can, in a sorry state. Achieving this, I also decided that I didn't like the look of the badge-less and non matching trunk lid. And considering moving the luggage rack from my GL trunk lid to this one would be a pain, why not just swap lids out. I am going to have to remove the 4wd sticker I bought for the GL however, as it is now a lie. And I will have to order a new Subaru badge of ownership From the 80s gen cars to the 90s, Subaru must have switched paint and the silver on the GL and the silver on the Loyale is slightly different in appearance. It doesn't look too off though, thankfully. From the GL I also swapped the door handle plastic trim, as the Loyale ones were all scratched and discolored. Surprisingly the blue doesn't stand out too much and I never really noticed just how perfect the ones in the GL are. And that is where the car stands with me now. I want to thank user tincan for all the extra bits he gave me with the car, and acknowledge his personality, which is pretty damn cool. It was cool to meet you and congrats on the new Sonic! You'll have to update in here with a picture of the Tin Can's successor when you get it! So we will see what adventures await this car. The GL is going to get stripped out and most of her body panels are going to be used to restore the other Loyale, Ben. Here are a couple bonus pictures to wrap up this initial (long!) introductory post: PS: There is an easter egg *AWESOME* 80's car in the last picture. Bonus points to the first person that notices it!! =P

They don't have new tanks on rock auto? I just bought a new tank for my GL. I have a lot of things going on right now sorry I haven't gotten back to you about the Weber. I'll see what I can do. The rusty gas tank may have led to the carburetion problems. Dirty fuel clogging things

using 4wd while down on power is just going to slow you down. What exactly is it you are trying to find out? And how are you so certain the 4wd is not functioning? 9k miles in a lot is like...an unbelievably high amount of mileage. Especially for a car that has spent 75 percent of it's life sleeping. Things are going to break. You can't just pull a car out of hibernation and drive it 1/3 of the way around the world and not expect problems. You need to first and foremost change the gear oil. Ask me how I know. I grabbed a low mileage GL (87 gl 46k on it in 2012) and drove it across the united states. Twice. I ruined something in the trans because I didn't change the gear oil. *Change your gear oil* it is old and not really oil anymore so much as thin dirty liquid. Go through your coolant lines. Upper and lower rad lines should be changed with new. Belts. Tires, probably. Expect bearings to fail. Water pump shaft bearings. Replace the water pump. It all depends on how preventative you want to be and how prepared you are for something to break.

I'm confident it will be fine. My trans went through much, much, much worse and it still functions. Subarus are a resilient beast. Bumblebeasts even more I suppose.

Perhaps you need new motor mounts subasuar!

The james bond smoke screen on long right turns is exactly what the PCV recall was done to prevent. If you search on the boards for the proper hose (re)routing for the pcv lines, it will take care of the smoking issue, and probably take care of your oil consumption problems as well.

Has there been much rain around you lately? Is it possible that the dipstick was not seated completely and water could have been finding it's way in? Have you driven in the rain recently? Any big puddles? Have you drained the fluid out yet to try and get a measurement on how much water it is compared to oil? I have no good ideas for how it happened, but I think these are questions that may help if they are answered. Time for a gear oil flush!

Drive safely! Try not to push the accelerator pedal *through* the floor!

Haha, my tank was at half when I did it and it took awhle. A full tank is going to take like an hour to drain like that. Maybe somebody else knows a way but that's the only way I can think of. If you drain the fuel like I explained above, the fuel is going to flow out the bottom pass side front most part of the tank. Not exactly bottom bottom, but close to it. That's if all the fittings are the same between fuel injection and carb models. I did this on a carb model. If you drain it from right at the fuel pump you'll be draining it straight from the line that comes from the tank, so nothing will flow through your pump, or more lines, or your filter. Your filter is under the hood if you're fuel injected.

It's pretty new, only about 8 months of use. The Subaru I had it on succombed to rust. It did have a bunch of dirt in it from dirty fuel though, but I just cleaned, rebuilt, and re-jetted it with all genuine Weber parts and it should be like new. I'd let it go for $200.00. It should be pretty much plug and play for you. That price would be for the carb itself, any extra jets I have laying around, and a brand new un-used low profile air filter element. I might have a few more things for it as well, including the old (used) higher air filter. Let me know what you think, send me a PM if you like. I'd need to know if you would be getting the adapter (for the intake manifold) yourself. I would like to keep mine, as I'm not sure if I'm keeping the motor or not (it's still on the motor) and I tapped the intake to larger studs, but, that's a different story lol.

In my rookie days of working on my gl I did exactly that to the e brake line when I replaced an axle by accident. Exact same thing. Check through the vac lines for leaks, regarding the idle issue. I have a Weber if you're interested.

I have put 1,000 miles on the car in 7 days this past week, and 2,000 on it since I acquired it. This is a solid running vehicle.

I'm pretty sure it's not even OBD anything. It's pre-OBD.