l75eya

Wow. That's exactly what did my car in. I didn't notice it as soon as you fortunately did. I was working on dropping my gas tank when I decided the rest of my car is too rusty to warrant doing any more work, but if you want to drain the tank you can raise the back of the car up, climb underneath, clamp something on to the line leading to your fuel filter back there (if carbureted. Fuel pump if not) and then work that line off of your filter (or pump). Once you have a good container to catch the gasoline in, unclamp it and let it drain. Depending on how much gas you have in there, be ready to clamp it again and get another container. I drained my tank this way. It took awhile but got the job done. I have a brand new uninstalled fuel tank available for a carburetor vehicle here in jersey that was going to go in to my car but I am no longer going that route. Also, if fuel injected, you are going to want to be careful when you disconnect the fuel line as there's a lot of pressure residual in the line. Even if you clamp it, it's going to spray a bit. Be careful.

If I were you and had that little gem in my driveway, I'd be fixing to restore it as close to showroom quality as possible. But! Different strokes for different folks! Regarding the brakes, the later loyales did not have self adjusting rear brakes. If the rear brakes were out of adjustment, no amount of brake bleeding would get rid of the slop in the pedal. Either wait for somebody to chime in here about the rear brakes, or climb underneath and look for an adjustment nut protruding from the drum backing plate. Stalling mid turn sounds like a float problem. If the new carburetor he supplied was a Weber carb, I'd definitely be looking to put that on if it's new. The stock Hitachi carb isn't considered to be a very good carburetor and a common upgrade is to install a Weber in it's place. Congrats on the car, definitely a good price. These are appreciating in value every year.

Wow, well, at any rate, one way or another it was an adventure. I will keep my eyes peeled for the gold bar filled roo lurking in NJ or PA somewhere. It's out there. I know it.

If that pans out, I will gladly be a partner in crime. Let's turn a non running junk yard car into a running driving vehicle and take it to Alaska.

Seems you're flying out today. Hope all goes well! I hope you document most of the journey, I'm looking forward to the story just like the last one! That was a hatch last time, right?

Henpecked that was an excellent post. Very helpful. Nice of you to take the time to write that up.

Rear axle(s).

You are a very nice person, sir. Your father must have been very very happy. I like happy stories. Awesome.

And that is the last photograph that photographer ever photographed.

There is no clutch switch to prevent ignition. You can start the car without your foot anywhere near the pedal. Don't forget to put it in neutral haha!

I love your face.

Come no now, how many of us have taken these apart numerous times? This is my first rebuild on a weber though, and I'm hoping I don't have to take the top off again to put these back. Anybody can chime in?

Finishing up a rebuild. Two plastic dust shields as they are referred to, I can't figure out where they go. Anybody have an idea? Parts 7 and 8 http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.asp

Just hammer it back. Careful you don't miss and hit the tire. Hammer will bounce right back at you.

If I could get that kind of money together I would be ALL over this. Need an economical sedan? Dammit...

I'm in the process of redoing my entire fuel system due to a rust hole in the filler pipe that allowed all sorts of crap to kick up in to the tank. I took the Weber off yesterday and pulled it apart and this is exactly what I found. Everywhere. It's awful. The twin neoprene floats were both cracked as well. I'll post pictures today after work though it's been sitting in jug of carb cleaner since yesterday. This sludgy calcium deposit crap is hard to clean out of everything man.

Has anybody had issues with the floats in their DGVs cracking? The neoprene ones? I'm in the midst of rebuilding and cleaning all the crud and crap that got in to my less than 1 year old brand new carburetor, and discovered the neoprene float cracked. Both sides. I can find replacement floats in the neoprene and brass. The brass float is twice as expensive as the neoprene one. I'm thinking of just getting another neoprene replacement and checking on it periodically. I can't imagine what could have caused my float to crack, though I have sent a few things down the throat of that carburetor. I always run 93 octane but it has seen an entire can of carburetor cleaner and some wd-40 as well at one point as an emergency starting fluid. In addition to those things, all the calcium deposits and rock salt and dirt and grit from the contaminated fuel it had been getting.

Oh and the oil pressure readings will still read ok even with the tick of death problem you're having. That gauge isn't too accurate anyhow.

The valve clacking sounds like the famous "tick of death" that ea82 motors are prone to. It's not as ominous as it sounds though, it's due to an oil pressure situation that is typically remedied by replacing the oil pump gasket. I'd replace the pump itself as well in my opinion, considering you have to get in there anyway to change the seal. Regarding the inability to get in to 4 lo, are you getting in to 4 hi no problem? Regarding power, check your timing. Spfi should be at 20* but when you check it you have to connect two electrical connectors at the drivers side firewall so the engine runs at a set idle speed with no advance. Your fuel filter is right there too, I would put a new one on while you're at it. Relieve the fuel system pressure before disconnecting the lines by disconnecting power from the fuel pump and then cranking the motor. Disconnect the battery before you work on any fuel lines. You mean 1988, right? I've yet to see a 98 and I imagine you would have the only one in the world if that were true :-P

lol! I hope it doesn't come down to that! Best of luck with all the work laid out ahead of you. Also, on the HHR note we were discussing before, boss' trans went in the HHR in the middle of the lincoln tunnel during morning rush hour. 37k on it. Scary. Might want to get away from yours when you can, but I can say that the one we use here for work does get the ever loving **** kicked out of it during the work week driving around manhattan. Heavy heavy accel, start, stop, start, stop, etc. Dealer said it was the clutch-packs. Lots of metal in the pan. Boss is thinking of trading it in. It's an 09.

Best of luck.

Good stuff here. Wanted to bring it back from the dead to ask, what kind of metal line do you run when replacing the lines? It looks like the same type of lines I used when I did the brakes on my nova. Can I use metal brake lines? Are all of the metal lines the same diameter?

That's great news! I like when things are simple and bolt on, as they were meant to haha.

That'd be great! I appreciate it. I was thinking of maybe patching mine somehow, but I'm not sure. Is replacing it something that will require welding and cutting?

Oh and naturally a rebuild is in order for my 4 month old Weber :-\