l75eya

Don't post here often, I'm more in the old gen forums, but I'm trying to help a friend find a cheap car and stumbled across this forester. Any ideas? I know I've heard you guys talk about a fuse under the hood that will force fwd. I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas my buddy can try to see if it'll move without really letting the seller know, because if it works then the guy might turn around and not sell it you know what I mean? Ideas? Thanks

That number is the gross vehicle weight rating. That's how much you it can weigh, maximum. Subtract like 880 lbs from that and there's your car weight.

You can get it close but if it's not an identical brand and part it'll be off a little.

My gl weighs like 2500 lbs. How light are you trying to get your car?! lol I've literally picked up the rear end of it and slid it over a few feet.

Maybe you can wedge a pry-bar in there while the tie rod end is loose and get a good bit of rotational torque on the stud, hopefully preventing it from turning. If you have a hacksaw or an angle grinder, I'd just skip that and cut it off as it's shot now anyway. At least tie-rod ends are cheap! Hopefully you got a place around that has them in stock though.

Does it have the checkered interior?

The 87 +rx should indeed be full time 4wd with diff lock.

Ooo. Black Rx. Unicorn. Treat it well.

It helps to open the brake fluid bleeder valve before turning the caliper piston in so the brake fluid can just squirt out while you're turning it in instead of you forcing it through the lines.

!!! That's okay. We've all done that I think. You can use a strong pair of needle nose pliers to do it, otherwise the auto stores have a tool you can rent that fits onto a ratchet. Brake caliper piston tool I think it's called. I have had intermittent shakes brought on by a failed or failing CV and that was actually the first thing I thought of when I read your story about the pothole. At least like you said now you have all those other components new!! haha

Take off the flywheel and set it on a flat surface. Get a socket that is about the same size and lay it on the bearing and tap tap tap it out.

More progress. Got ahold of a universal GM trunk lock. Independent parts store. Love em! Had a few left in the back. Popped that sucker on in about 25 seconds, pow! Now I have a key operated trunk lid! Tore in to the driver's side door again, drilled out the rivets holding the regulator to the inside of the door. Turns out the tape had stripped out. See the way it works essentially is there's this strong plastic ribbon that has rectangles cut into the center of it and those holes mesh with the gears in the regulator. When you turn the handle it feeds the plastic tape through it clockwise or counter and lowers or raises your window. A 4 rectangle stretch of the plastic tape were ripped out, so the window couldn't move. Same independent shop that had an old GM trunk lock had the tape in stock too. Got both of those things fixed today. That pretty much takes care of everything that needs addressed simple-wise. Only thing left is the key cylinder on the pass door. When all is said and done I'm going to have four keys for the car lol. One for the driver's side door and the glove box. One for the trunk. One for the ignition and one for the pass door. !!! Oh well. Here's some pictures! The good side. Note driver's side window down! Whoo hoo!: The not as good side: My fresh trunk lock cylinder I've probably invested into it what I paid for it already lol. Oh well. Pass side cyl Fender Headlight Tune-up. To do.

Lol! Something tells me that I probably could have kept cruising at that speed for a couple hours with no problem. I subjected that car to 4750 - 5300 rpms for 3 hours straight once going from Pennsylvania to jersey when I thought it was on its last legs (I was wrong). I was waiting for it to blow but it never did.

I'm nearby you in jersey. I can try to help you out. Our cars are few and far between out east here and parts are near impossible to find. I found a manual transmission for my car using car-part.com Brooklyn you have hunts point junkyard out there in the bronx. They have EVERYTHING. You should be able to find something out there. Tell us what your car is doing that is making you think it needs a new transmission. There is a common failure point on the auto transmissions that is easy to fix and doesn't require replacement, or even removal of the transmission. Is it not shifting through the gears on it's own?

My guess is the fluid was brake fluid. Something in the drum could have broken as well causing the noise. Update with your findings!

Just because 3AT.

Updates! I've put 120 miles on the Calais since Tuesday, it runs pretty good despite surely needing a full tune up. Idle in gear is a little rough, whole car vibrates a bit at red lights. Idling in park it has an intermittent miss you can hear out the pipe. Another issue I'm pretty sure a tune up will cure. So far I've; Straightened the hood out enough for it to latch closed normally (yay) Re-formed the back seat seat back and reinstalled it Vacuumed the interior Removed the trunk lock key cylinder and repaired the lock (can open it from the outside now. With a screw driver) Repaired the passenger front door lock (couldn't engage lock, now it can) Refit the pass front door arm rest Wrapped the torn center arm rest in vinyl tape New wipers (I swear I think the old ones were from 1991) I'm not going to be able to repair the drivers side window very easily it seems though. I'll have to wait till I have time to look at that more in depth and drill out the rivets that hold the mechanism in.

Both of the above happened to me. Bad shake due to a tire defect, and a bad CV the other time. Make sure the tires are OK, then I'd start looking at the axle.

There's no doubt the loyales have crumple zones. For front impacts. And they definitely work. I think the older cars as well as the newer gen cars major weak point is side impacts as was mentioned previously. There's no doubt in my mind that the frameless doors play in to this, and why the newer subarus have fully framed doors.

No, I still got her! Sitting in my father's driveway waiting to have the fuel system flushed :-\

So! I was perusing the list of craig. Craig's list as it's called. I was sorting through the vehicles listed near me in ascending monetary order. After weeding through all the assholes that set the price of their car at $1, and all the people who are asking 10k for their car but list it at $10, I finally started to get to the meat of what I was looking for. $300 and up I started seeing actual cars for the actual price, but at this range many of them are usually non-running and cottage cheese rust wise. Then I saw the oldsmobile listed for $400.00. One owner car, garage kept for many of it's years, got in to a minor accident but it is running and driving and the price is OBO. So here's the pictures I saw in the ad; Not too shabby. Even has the venerable "Iron Duke" Pontiac motor. Long story short, I went and checked it out and had the title signed over to me for $150.00 even. 120,000 miles. Drives straight, feels solid, 90 percent tread on all 4 corners. Front seats are good, armrest is torn, back seat is immaculate, though bent out of shape due to necessary removal to get into the trunk. the bad is the front obviously. I'll have to source a headlight and a fender, and eventually a grille (why do all the cars I buy have broken grilles!?) The hood is bowed ever so slightly and the radiator support is pushed back just enough for the hood to not latch. The trunk lock doesn't work, that should be a simple enough fix. The pass side door doesn't lock and the key cylinder on that door is destroyed from somebody trying to break in. The headliner (as with all these GM cars of the time) hangs down. Driver's side window doesn't go down (crank windows. Linkage?) I aim to replace the damaged body panels and clean it up. Started this thread just to document pretty much. Going for plates tomorrow AM and taking a train out to long island to pick it up.

The car is supposed to crumple so you don't take the impact. The wagon might not fold as easily but that means that energy makes its way to you. When the impreza crumples it's absorbing the energy you would otherwise feel.

Best thread in awhile. Good discussion. (Honestly. Not sarcasm. Enjoyed reading)

Haha! "Tyre". You guys are so silly :-P

No, that was a pretty much serious statement. Almost all work you perform on the vehicle will require just those few sockets. Of course you will want to have each variation of those respective socket sizes though. For instance, you'll want to have a 12 mm socket in both 1/4" and 3/8" drive. Preferably in 1/2" drive as well. The drive part is the size on the other side of the socket, the part that attaches to the ratchet. You'll want the smaller drive sockets for small simple, relatively loose bolts. Maybe for the belt tensioner. You'll want that same size socket in a bigger drive (3/8 or 1/2") for the same size bolt but this one may be holding on the brake caliper, so it will be tighter. Larger size drives enable you to exert more torque.