l75eya

Go figure. As soon as we start talking trash about FRAM, a friggin tech manager from them pops up out of the woodwork. I really feel like our subaru forums here house the most diverse people possible. Doctors, lawyers, garbagemen, service techs, bums, hippies, engineers, where's our resident celebrity?

What do you use the 15 on? Brakes? Ball joint? Can't remember..

Concerning your thought of buying tools, a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm is pretty much all you need to disassemble the entire car :-)

Mobil 1 oil and filters. Nothing but the best.

Does it always idle that high, or only when it's cold? Normal cold idle is around those numbers.

Check out the first two photos I have posted in a thread I made when I was having a little trouble converting my car to a weber carburettor. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146444-its-inevitablemy-weber-questions/ Those two black things, on your car, are they connected to the air box? I was having massive backfiring issues when letting my foot off the gas in my car both before and after I put the weber on. There's this thing around these message boards called the quarter trick. You take a quarter, or a nickle, whatever you can get to fit there right, and shove it in to the hose to block it. (For instance, that second picture I have, of the one on the pass. side, you can see the hose open towards the bottom of the pic. I took that end of the hose off the ASV, put the quarter in there, and then put the hose back on. No more backfiring.

How long has it been sitting? Bad gas? Is that car carburetted or fuel injected?

When you compressed the front brake caliper cylinders back in, how did you do it, with a c-clamp and just push them in? If so you have probably damaged them and need to replace them. They're designed to turn in. Hopefully that's not what happened though. Also, one leading cause of spongy brakes on the Loyale is because nobody adjusts the rear brakes. They don't auto adjust like most cars do (even the older GLs had auto adjusters). You have to raise the rear of the car with the tires still on. There's a post sticking out of the rear of the drum backing plate, it may still have the protective rubber sleeve on it. The post is the adjuster. I think an 10mm wrench fits it but I'm not sure. Tighten it a little bit at a time and spin the rear wheel. Get to where the shoes are lightly dragging and back off a bit. Do the other side.

Are you sure the timing belts are/were installed properly? Turn the engine until you see three lines on the flywheel through the viewing port on the bell housing. When you have the notch on the viewing port lined up with the middle of the three lines, you can check the cam alignment holes to ensure proper timing. Drivers side should be 12 o clock and pass side should be 6. If all checks out then the above method for aligning the distributor should work.

Mirrored image. Look at windshield wipers and drivers seat.

Wow, I would have loved to have seen that. All of that.

We can all speculate and make our own assessments. I think it's unwise, myself. Here's three thing though; none of us can say with 100 percent assurance one way or the other. Original poster has touched on an interesting idea here, especially if the rim dimensions and safety beads are there and similar to a regular rim.

Got around 105,640 on Ben now after this 470 mile weekend :-)

470 miles this weekend. :-) that Loyale just keeps a-goin' (steadily along at 4k rpms @ 68mph).

I think that would only really occur if you flipped over. I'm just speculating, but being a return line, the other end of that hose probably goes to the very top of the fuel tank. That's really just a guess, but I do see your concern. Could probably just go back there and look.

BUT WHAT ABOUT THE SWITCH!?!?!?

It was definitely a good thought! Who wouldn't want easy to find 15 inch rims that just bolt on lol. I mean, there's been a couple people above who claim to have put many miles on regular tires mounted to the t-type rim. Maybe you just have to research it a lot more. Legality, reliability, safety, etc. Speaking for myself, those things I said before are just assumptions, I could be wrong. Either way though it was thoughtful to share the idea, thank you

Maybe the friction disc wasn't aligned properly in the pressure plate you mean? Even that I couldn't imagine... Scraping anything really.. Whatever though, if it's fixed it's fixed. What you describe as the problem doesn't sound very possible though lol

That's one way to do it, but I'm of the general consensus that it's not that safe. I don't the T-type rims even have a safety bead. That's the bead that keeps the tire from coming off the rim when it's flat. You should just be aware that in the event you (god forbid) were involved in an accident, I don't think you'd have any coverage on discovery of those shoes on the car.

The 25 spline turbo axle shafts are thicker than their naturally aspirated counter parts, but you'd have to figure a way to get them on a naturally aspirated car.

You've posted this question before. I know this because I replied exactly as John did, above.

Nah, not applicable here I don't think. He said he drove 180 miles and it sat for a decade lol. That is lots of smoke. Valve seals dried up over time while sitting?

Don't worry about the trans. They're not great for the highway, but they're pretty solid.

That's an excellent question. I wonder. My oxygen starved hitachi carbed ea82 barely pulled 105. (mph)

Early RX had part time 4wd with fwd, 4wd hi, and lo. They were 3.7 ratio dual range transmissions. The later cars were full time.