l75eya

Thought our rear diffs were also used on the early rear wheel drive Nissans. They should be strong enough to withstand full power I'd think. Now the driveshaft and axles on other hand, idk.

Also, 4wd shouldn't be used on that light gravel/sand either. Only use it when the front wheel drive isn't enough.

That's exactly right. There too much traction on the cement paddock to use 4wd. Try to avoid ever doing things like that as it causes a tremendous amount of stress on the entire drive train. About as much stress as you could ever subject it to. Also the shifting on the fly is fine to do. Just make sure you're on a suitable surface.

Kinda like if you asked me something I didn't know the answer to and I said to you in reply *shrugs*

Guy was just making a joke about how.... Not very sophisticated his repair was, but that it still works. Like an emoticon, but in words. I hope that explains it. Just a little confusing to understand if you are unfamiliar with them.

No. Check it out; First and foremost do all your tires match? All same size? If they don't match you shouldn't use the 4wd anyway. 4wd needs matching tires. Now, don't worry about the dry pavement thing just for testing purposes. Driving a couple feet in A STRAIGHT LINE on pavement isn't going to harm anything. Get a nice open space and stop the car, put it in 4wd. Drive straight forward. Are your rear wheels locked up? If yes, that's a problem. If no, good. In either case, after you've satisfied your curiosity, put the car in reverse and slowly back up straight towards where you came from. While reversing, disengage the 4wd. If that all went well, you should pretty much be fine. Go find some mud and drive through with your 4wd on. Concerning the LSD, chances are slight that you have one. There is an easy way to check; peak under your the back of your car and look at the rear differential. It should have a metal tag attached to it. It'll say what the final drive ratio of the differential is, and if it's LSD it'll also say so. Hope this helps. Don't use the 4wd on pavement (except the short distance I said above just for testing purposes). Only use it in situations where your wheels will slip. On snow, ice, loose gravel, loose dirt, and mud. Basically, don't use it unless you've gotten stuck and the front wheels are just spinning.

Your determination is impressive! Hope you get it!

Exhaust mount is a good idea, sandwich it in there. Hockey puck would work too, but he already has the rubber there, he just needs a way to get the metal plate back up attached to the rubber.

Excellent article about the absolute b/s that is cross drilled and slotted rotors, and also the "myth" that is warped rotors. Suggested reading: http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/brake-myths-what-to-expect-when-youre-expecting-to-st-1688020147

Sounds very much like a gear oil issue. There was another thread here within the last two weeks with the same exact issue. I'm curious what happens if you park the car with it left in reverse and see if it moves in the morning?

Swapped. Same problems. The GL and Loyale coils do indeed have the same connections, but the body of the coil in the GL is bigger than the Loyale coil. Weird. Anyway I think I've FINALLY found the problem. The previous issues I've had with filling my tank led me to checking it the filler pipe more closely. Found an extremely dirty fuel cap. Looked in the pipe and there was tons of dirt and chunks and just all around not good stuff to find there. Reason? Big rust hole at the 9 o'clock position of the filler tube before the shutter plate. So now I'm pretty sure my problems are with dirty fuel. Going to have to drain the fuel tank, flush out all the dirt, blow air through the fuel lines, replace both fuel filters, and most likely have to take the Weber apart and clean it out too. Ugh. And then there's trying to get the pipe fixed. Fun times!

So there are some drain holes on the bottom of the tank? I ask because I recently discovered I probably have a lot of **** in the bottom of my tank and probably have to clean it.

That's not what broke on mine. My shifter popped out of the half ball it sits in. I fixed it from the interior of the car, disassembling the console. I don't think you want to make it solid metal, it needs to flex, when there is a load on the transmission and motor, the shifter linkage flexes there. You need it to be flexible. Maybe use a long carriage bolt. Drill through the center of the rubber bushing, and the attaching plate and bolt it together?

One cheap-o way I've heard for a good fuel pressure regulator, get an ordinary water pipe shut off valve. Throw it in line, and close the valve. Open it a slight bit, see if and how well, bad the car runs. Adjust accordingly.

Ha! Same thing happened to me last month.

Just get a new switch. If the switch works on 4 but no other speeds, the resistors burned out.

Timing procedure, rotate crankshaft until you spot three hash marks on flywheel through port on bell housing. Line up tab on bell housing with middle hash mark. Now with that lined up, rotate drivers side cam shaft until alignment hole is pointing straight up. Install belt. Do one entire rotation of crank until you get back to hash marks. Drivers cam alignment hole should be pointing straight down. Turn pass side cam until alignment hole is pointing straight up, install pass side belt. Done.

Are spfi and old carb car coils interchangeable?

Also, regarding fuel tank; last few times I fueled up, the pipe was seemingly clogged. Fuel overflowed out of it. I rapped the filler pipe a few times and it then took fuel. Side note. Related? Beats me. Worth mentioning. It was very cold out when this happened. Haven't fueled up yet in the warmer weather so I don't know if this is still an issue.

Timing is good, no vac leaks, new fuel pump, carburetor is 10~ months old and had only ever seen 93 octane fuel ever. New fuel filter when it was installed. My clear fuel filter shows constant fuel supply. Will read up on how to test the coil.

I'd remove it and spin it by hand to be sure the bearings are okay. Make sure the belt runs along it nice and straight. Make sure it's not too tight or loose. Just because it is new it could still be defective. Shouldn't be making any noticeable sounds. With timing belts it's better to be safe than sorry. One of those breaks and you're stuck.

Thanks for those two tips guys. I will be scoring further to find which pins to check and so on and so forth. Gotta find my factory manual somewheres.

Tweety, as you are the grand Master wizard of all things spfi from your trials with the trike, is there a way you can please refresh the pictures in this thread? I'm scouring the boards learning about the spfi system trying to diagnose a throttle stumble. Your threads are invaluable.

Loud squeal could be indicating an improperly tensioned belt. Which pulley? The small one with teeth cutouts on the drivers side that comes with a replacement? Or one of the smooth tensioners?

No particular idle air control other than the primary idle jet on the Weber which I understand is an air bleed valve. And the mixture screw of course. There was an anti diesel on the old Hitachi but it has since been removed, along with all the other emissions garbage, when I put the Weber on.