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l75eya

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Everything posted by l75eya

  1. l75eya
    Loud squeal could be indicating an improperly tensioned belt. Which pulley? The small one with teeth cutouts on the drivers side that comes with a replacement? Or one of the smooth tensioners?
  2. l75eya
    No particular idle air control other than the primary idle jet on the Weber which I understand is an air bleed valve. And the mixture screw of course. There was an anti diesel on the old Hitachi but it has since been removed, along with all the other emissions garbage, when I put the Weber on.
  3. l75eya
    Just had a big dinner, so I'm about to actually. Oh! The other bowl. :-P I will check for a way to drain it out.
  4. l75eya
    Cleaned out the primary and secondary idle jets on the Weber. Car ran great. Went for a drive, back to running rough. Cleaned out the primary, again. Didn't see anything (either time) but poked a thin wire through the orifices and blew air through them. Ran okay but still some missing. Didn't bother taking it for another drive because I had a feeling it was just going to start running rough again. Clear filter shows no debris. I'm at a loss.
  5. l75eya
    You drive a good point though. As suggested above, maybe find some security bit screws, or tamper proof? Would suck to come back to it and find that stuff gone!
  6. l75eya
    That is an accomplishment sir! Both my GL and my girlfriend's Loyale we are the second owners.
  7. l75eya
    We want to see the odometer!! Lol
  8. l75eya
    It's like you're a lawyer or something :-P You ever seen the movie "my cousin Vinny" jeszek?
  9. l75eya
    Funny, I'm having very similar problems with my 87 GL, though my car has a Weber on it. It started off intermittently, car would stall every now and then, then it began struggling to idle and now it's not running at all. My issues got worse after changing my clutch too, I'm removing (permanently) the timing belt covers tomorrow to check the timing. I've put a new pump in, new filter, adjusted the carb to no end, I'm lost. Checked all my vac plugs and one was missing on the intake but that didn't fix it, though it did help it run smoother. Hope you get yours figured out, if/when I get mine I'll let you know what helped me in my situation.
  10. l75eya
    Is it carbureted or fuel injected? Fuel injected calls for the higher pressure pump.
  11. l75eya
    So what you're saying is that it's still climbing?
  12. l75eya
    Why wouldn't they have just taken it already? Maybe they're vibrating loose? New screws +a dab of loctite?
  13. l75eya
    Up to 103,7xxx in the Loyale. 84k on the GL.
  14. l75eya
    Please allow me to direct your attention here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/67326-show-off-your-roos-mileage/page-2?
  15. l75eya
    You have to install your own rear speakers. Also, run your own speaker wire to all four speakers. Don't use the stock wires. If you do use stock wiring you will burn out your radio when you adjust the fade and balance.
  16. l75eya
    Yeah, you're pretty much gold there. The ONLY thing that may be finicky to hook up might be the 4wd and the lo light. Your car most likely has the lo light there, but it's just not wired up. You can just leave all as is of course and throw the trans in, you just wouldn't have the lights functioning, but mechanically everything will be fine.
  17. l75eya
    1.) Are you absolutely certain the radio is good? 2.) Maybe the speaker(s) you hooked the radio up to are blown out? First two things that pop into my head.
  18. l75eya
    I was going to say that too about the battery terminals, but the OP did mention that their interior lights still work.
  19. l75eya
    Egr solenoid. Almost guaranteed. Also, anything that has a manual trans is going to do better than the automatic, regardless of fuel delivery. Your 89 auto must have been a unicorn, unless it has the rare 4eat trans. My 3 speed Loyale gets 25ish around town and the same on the highway. My 5 speed GL could do over 30mpg highway before the Weber.
  20. l75eya
    That check engine light is probably due to a bad egr solenoid, which is a common failure on these guys. Search the ultimate Subaru repair manual to find the guide that explains how to pull the codes and read them. If it's a faulty solenoid it can be replaced with any electrical vac solenoids.
  21. l75eya
    I agree with the above post. Is this engine carbureted?
  22. l75eya
    Even if they total it you can keep it. Which they're going to. That's much more work than the cars value (to an insurance company) Sorry for the bad luck. Save some money for a parts car with a good rear quarter. Least you can keep driving it. Make sure the tank don't leak!
  23. l75eya
    Push button 4wd? Dual range?
  24. l75eya
    They're cheap enough you can keep a spare one just in case. Hard to really give you any idea when it might go. Could last another 100,000 miles, or it could go next week, i'd say. Sometimes they give you warning signs beforehand, if you have a voltmeter, seeing erratic readings on that would be an indication. Any type of bearing noise would be another indication. Whines, loud whirring, etc. Like I mentioned though, they're cheap enough that it'd be no big deal really to just buy one and keep it in the car just in case. Also, even if it does just completely go dead while you're driving, you'll still be able to drive the car until the battery itself discharges.
  25. l75eya
    Any chance you could share that link for the tps adjustment you mentioned please? Glad you got her fired back up, I'm battling growing issues with 2 old Subarus right now :-\
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