l75eya

That happened to me once in 5th gear in my GL. Are you sure the clutch is disengaging? Hows about getting the front wheels in the air and trying to get it out of gear?

Just got off the phone with somebody there familiar with the car. Very brief conversation. One memorable quote about the trunk emblem, the gentleman informed me that a replaced trunk decklid does not mean he can't describe the vehicle as mint. I retract what I said about the car being with up to 5 +k. Now I'd say it's only worth around 3. Maybe a little more if it comes with a warranty.

Further, definitely fishy. That car isn't what they're advertising it as. I'm half compelled to drive over there and question them about it on the spot. Shame too, they always seemed very reputable.

On second look, there's something wrong here, the trunk has a Subaru GL badge. That's incorrect. If it's a 93 (which it seems to be because if the retractable seat belts) that trunk should have a badge that just says SUBARU. They dropped the GL in 89. Either that trunk lid was replaced, or the badge was. I'd question that.

This dealership sells many old Subarus among other cars. In my experience, when they initially list something, they list it very high. If it doesn't sell, they relist it lower. And lower. I've seen cars they've asked for 8k initially actually sell for around 5. That Loyale is perfect. It's also been worked on by the dealership because the valves were frozen, if I recall correctly (from sitting) That means it should have some new seals in it. Long story short, in MY opinion that car is with 4,750. Anything less than that would be a deal, and anything up to a grand over that would be the high end for just the right person. As far as leaks from sitting, it may happen, it may not. I bought an 87 with 46k on it in 2012. Roughly the same amount of non use as this. I bought it and drove it across the country. Twice. Without replacing a thing except the water pump after the first trip.

The raised portion of the friction plate, you want to make sure they are the same. Also, look to see that the springs are the same size. If you suspect things are not matching up, look for a part number on the friction disc and try to cross reference it. Where did you get the replacement clutch components? I was sent the wrong parts by rock auto.

I had a problem like that when I recently installed a replacement trans in my GL. Clutch wouldn't disengage. I was going crazy, everything was fine. Turned out I was sent the wrong clutch plate, but it was in the right box. If you continue having issues I recommend you compare your clutch friction disc to the original to ensure its the correct one.

Depending on which one has more oil left in it in the morning. :-P

Still intermittent rough running. Got a chance to check out the clear fuel filter while the car was chugging and barely (Barely) idling. Clear fuel filter looked like it was getting constant fuel supply. Fuel level in it wasn't changing. Makes me wonder if a new fuel pump will be tossing money to nothing. Not finding any vac leaks.. Only lead I have to go on is a weak alternator that sometimes has trouble maintaining good voltage at idle.... Anybody on the east coast want to buy an 87 GL? I'm getting tired of this.

If it's spfi i'm pretty certain it's designed to only run the fuel pump in the start position to start the vehicle, and then in the run position only if the motor is still running. If it stalls out, the fuel pump will not continue to pump until you restart the vehicle.

No, thank God! That's my girlfriend's Loyale. She has had multiple accidents with that car. One her fault, the other not so much. The first time I straightened it out and put on a new bumper, fender, headlight, and windshield. After the 2nd one I haven't done anything yet. That poor car looks terrible, but he runs great. This is the first time he's broken down in the 6 years we've had him. His name is Ben.

Yes. Not the adjustable tensioner though. The slotted one for the timing belts teeth. I can't turn it by hand. The lowest one.

Timing belts went on the Loyale last week. Ordered the parts from CNS auto parts on ebay (highly reputable seller) and expected them to be here by this weekend so I could perform the work. They haven't even shipped them yet. Super pissed. So, because I was all ready to do some work anyway, just tore down the front of the Loyale in anticipation of the belts arriving this next week. Then alls I gotta do is throw the kit in, button it all up, and Good to Go. (knock on wood) So, tore him down: Because of the front impact, and everything being bent back, I had to remove the batt, alt, and ac just to wiggle the radiator out, so I have enough room to work on the belts. It's all a pretty compressed tight fit in there =\ The damage. What could have caused that to happen? Maybe the next thing I have a question about for you guys Is that one cog that's under the water pump and the driver's side timing belt tensioner; that one cog there, does it drive anything? Or should it be free spinning? That's the same cog that comes with a replacement in the timing belt kits right? This cog does not want to turn at all. I imagine if it's supposed to be free spinning and it's seized up, then that's what chewed the teeth out of the timing belt.

Here's a great picture of the pins numbered right on the relay. http://www.ripper1.com/tech/wiring/relaybot.jpg

The confusion stems from the relay you have used. Its not your standard 5 pin Bosch style relay that is used in our examples. https://www.google.com/search?q=bosch%20relay&client=ms-android-metropcs-us&espv=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sboxchip=Images&sa=X&ei=SkjRVLu7Csz2yQTVlILgBw&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=360&bih=559 That's a Google image link showing the style relay that is used.

Check the connections at the radiator. Should be two hoses coming from the trans into the driver's side of rad. Check hoses themselves as well.

Bosch relay terminal 86 is what the original ignition switch wire leads to. Throwing a new starter at it may work for awhile but chances are eventually it'll start clicking again. I went through that whole song and dancea couple months ago. Put a new battery, new alternator, new starter motor. Each one of these fixes only worked for a short while and I was back to a clicking ignition. Changing the ignition switch contacts is a pain so I opted for the relay. One year later and still no problem.

So what cars came with the 5 speed dual range with the 3.7 ratio in 85/86? Key part, 3.7 dual range. NOT 3.9

Car started running bad/stalling again yesterday. Went about 100 miles running fine. Noticed when it started running shoddy that the idle dropped (if it would idle at all) to around 200 rpms, and the temp climbed up pretty high as I imagine a lean condition would make it do. Probably going to order a replacement pump soon. Anybody got a good suggestion to run with the Weber? I just did 75 highway miles too and it was running fine. Weirdest thing.

Don't worry. 3 separate things are going to need your attention all at the same time soon. :-P lol. Of course I don't wish that upon you, but isn't that just the way it seems to go all the time?

Towed it. Girlfriend's Loyale driver's side timing belt snapped. Prematurely. No front covers for those wondering. Got about 40k out of it, 20k less than is the interval to change them. Chained it up to my GL and towed it a mile to my father's house (drive way). Narrow driveway, can't pull it in because then my car'd be stuck, had to push it. Step incline at the sidewalk and lots of week old snow made this very difficult. Had to use 4lo and had both front and rear tires spinning but finally got it shoved far in to the back of the driveway That's when the shifter popped out of place in my GL! took the console apart and fixed that. Timing belt kit on the way.

You got the second locking nut on there to make sure the cable doesn't lose its adjustment right? My car does the same thing but it's because I don't have that second nut on.

I echo that sentiment. Get some ramps. That's scary stuff there. How come you needed it that high just to change the pump anyway? Figure you can do it without really lifting the car at all!

Looks solid. Didn't fall apart the two times I rapped it with the breaker bar. I'll take a closer look though.

Appreciate you posting up the cause and solution. Glad you got it sorted!