l75eya

Reset the Weber to baseline settings, tuned it using the lean out method. Running smooth. Installed a clear fuel filter right before the carb. Replaced a few old cracked vac caps. New battery terminals, finally!

Really wasn't much snow though, but it was fun! Still need to fix that dim headlight...

Wow, surprisingly I haven't heard that on the board lately :-P The past two times (yesterday being the second time) I went to put fuel in the car, the filler pipe was presumably blocked, too. Wtf. Each time the gas nozzle would click off almost immediately and if I kept going gas would start overflowing. Each time I grabbed my breaker bar and whacked on the pipes in the wheel well and eventually I was able to add fuel. Related? Unrelated? Frozen moisture in the pipes? Vapor? I'm at a loss for that one too. Anyways I was out for hours having fun in the snow and had zero issues with the car. Happy about that but also confused.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149308-no-start-issues-for-1990-loyale-resolved-added-starter-relay/?fromsearch=1 Follow that link for all your answers and the solution.

Is the noise only there when you're moving? If so, look around the tires/wheel wells for any loose plastic shrouding that could be rubbing the tire. If it's noise when while stationary, check power steering fluid.

Kerandt, Losing the reliability does suck, don't know if I'm going to get stuck somewhere or not! I'm going to be using the car either today or tomorrow because there's a blizzard moving in, and it's too much fun to resist plus I'm stupid, so I'll be out there. Will grab a can of starter fluid and give that a shot if and when it stalls out. Somebody else has suggested the clear in line filter as well, which is a great idea and I'll probably pick one up and toss that in as well. I don't think mine has a fuel solenoid, the only electronics on it that I'm aware of is the choke.

All swappable. You just need to fashion a mount for the center carrier bearing for the driveshaft. Take a peak under your 4wd car and you'll see a mount around the center of the drive shaft. Two bolts secure it on each side to the car. Your 2wd car will not have those holes for the bolts.

Lots of people have had similar experiences here. Torque is 180 I believe. People put a dab of blue thread lock. Personally I crank the bolt as tight as I can get it with a breaker bar. You should be good with stock torque and some thread lock.

93 Loyale I have built in late 92 has simple cluster. 3at. No amps, no oil pressure. Just FYI.

How do you get the timing that far advanced? At 20 degrees I'm fully advanced. Rotate the plug wires?

Pretty sure it's a flakey fuel pump. Random stalls, then it will start again and idle for a few seconds before it stalls out again. Let it sit for a little while and it'll start and run normal again till it happens again randomly. I've noticed my idle change a lot. Sometimes it'll idle real low, sometimes it'll idle at 1800 rpms. All at the same idle setting. Makes me think the fuel pump is sometimes putting out weak pressure and sometimes good pressure. Sometimes not enough pressure to even run. I know it's not the carb, it's a new Weber, been on for id say 6 months. New fuel filter when it was installed.

This was meant to be in the off topic forums. That's why it's so lazily written. Thanks for the kind intentions, however.

I think he got tired of (rightfully) correcting people :-P

Mods, this is a duplicate topic. Inadvertently made it initially in the off topic forums. You can delete this one. Apologies.

Any and all pictures appreciated on behalf of those of us who have a 3at in the stable. Best of luck getting the car back on the road.

Turbo delete and gutless due to low compression ratio?

It's not a good sign when the thread ends with the OP talking about airing up the tires in his bicycle... :-[ Davet on sure you'll get that car back on the road though, whatever it takes.

Yeah, I echo the sentiment. It's good you're keeping the car clean. That nothing superficial rust will turn in to holes and paper thin metal in 2 - 3 years time. The metal on these cars is so prone to rust it's unbelievable.

The easiest way to know if it will work or not is to look at the rear diff on your car. There's a metal plate affixed to it (well, there should be) that'll tell you the gear ratio. It's most likely going to be 3.9, though could be 3.7 Point is, it has to match the gear ratio of the trans. If that hi/lo came from a normally aspirated 87 GL, then it's a 3.9. If your rear diff is a 3.9 as well, you're set.

Nip, I can say for certain that the distributor cap is the clip on type and the rotor has no screw. I don't think it's an optical distributor but I will check.

Good idea. Going to check the plugs as well. Maybe fouling.

and it's because you post important information such as this that you're one of my favorite people on this board. Idler froze up in the Loyale...I don't know when. Got around to checking it out today though and had to remove the inner belt. Going to be replacing both belts and couldn't find the right lengths anywhere. 5 minutes of searching on here and I find this thread and then I find Jeszek's post with part #s. Thank you!

This has been going on for a month now with my GL (weber, 87) Long story short, it stalls and won't start again for some time. Seemingly out of nowhere. On a few occasions I was doing some city driving, going down a block, 2nd gear, and it'd start bucking. Then it would just die and I'd be able to start it again and it would idle for a few seconds and die again. If I tried giving it gas it would choke and die. After waiting a little while it would eventually start up and run perfectly normal. Last night I came out at 3am and started the car. Started up fine, I'm sitting here letting it warm up, foot on the gas barely, to hold it at 1200 rpms. About 4 minutes in to this and it sputters and dies. Restarts once and stalls. Won't start again. Today I go out, turn the key and it starts right up. Needle is just starting to move off the c. Been running for 8 minutes now. Smooth as silk. I'm thinking maybe my fuel pump is getting flaky, I'm hoping it's not my distributor or coil. I have very crappy, loose battery terminals that need replacing. Does anybody have their own ideas or things to try to narrow it down? When all this happens, it doesn't smell flooded. My timing is fully advanced. A few months ago I dialed back the timing because the car was flooding out shortly after starting, or so I thought. Maybe it was the same thing, though it never did it after running for awhile like it has now. Either way I've since set the timing back to fully advanced. Think it could be a timing thing? Sucks not being able to trust her. No long drives for now.

This has been going on for a month now with my GL (weber, 87) Long story short, it stalls and won't start again for some time. Seemingly out of nowhere. On a few occasions I was doing some city driving, going down a block, 2nd gear, and it'd start bucking. Then it would just die and I'd be able to start it again and it would idle for a few seconds and die again. If I tried giving it gas it would choke and die. After waiting a little while it would eventually start up and run perfectly normal. Last night I came out at 3am and started the car. Started up fine, I'm sitting here letting it warm up, foot on the gas barely, to hold it at 1200 rpms. About 4 minutes in to this and it sputters and dies. Restarts once and stalls. Won't start again. Today I go out, turn the key and it starts right up. Needle is just starting to move off the c. Been running for 8 minutes now. Smooth as silk. I'm thinking maybe my fuel pump is getting flaky, I'm hoping it's not my distributor or coil. I have very crappy, loose battery terminals that need replacing. Does anybody have their own ideas or things to try to narrow it down? When all this happens, it doesn't smell flooded. My timing is fully advanced. A few months ago I dialed back the timing because the car was flooding out shortly after starting, or so I thought. Maybe it was the same thing, though it never did it after running for awhile like it has now. Either way I've since set the timing back to fully advanced. Think it could be a timing thing? Sucks not being able to trust her. No long drives for now.

Yeah, it's Sunday. Relax day. Day before the whole routine sets off for another spin, back to Friday, and then another set of relaxation. But I own a Subaru. And it's over a quarter of a century old. And it's parked on the Monday side of the street cleaning schedule. And tomorrow is Monday. And yesterday, my car wouldn't start. Well, it wouldn't re-start. It started, idled, was warming up, and then sputtered and died, and then it wouldn't start again. I'll deal with it tomorrow,I told myself. Thankfully I have another Subaru and it's only 22 years old. Well, tomorrow is today and it's raining and it's freezing out, and I'm sick and hacking up giant wads of what look like teenage mutant ninja turtle skin. And I'm laying on the couch very comfortable and warm. And I'm procrastinating and dragging my rump roast mindlessly scouring this awesome message board, and typing up this rambling ramble, but I know that I have to dress up warm here in a few, go outside, get soaked, and open that hood for the millionth time, and tinker on that flat 4 for the millionth time, and troubleshoot, and get stumped, and figure it out, and fix it, and drive another 700 or so trouble free miles till the next exciting surprise crops up. Daily driving a 27 year old car is an exercise in masochism. That's what it seems like sometimes anyways, but I know as soon as there's snow covering the ground, all will be forgiven and I'll have a huge smile on my face -if it starts.