l75eya

What's the deal with the 87 distributors?

Parts.Subaru.com Plug in your information there. It's tricky to find the category you want but weed through all the categories and I'm sure you'll find it in there, with the price(s)

I was thinking maybe we can get some exhaust sound in here! Post a snippet of your exhaust recording and information about your exhaust system. I understand it's difficult to capture the sound precisely but something is better than nothing. That being said, mine is definitely something as it's a cell phone recording. My ea82 has a Weber on it, 84k miles, stock headers, delete catalytic converter , straight pipe to a magnaflow muffler I got for free brand new, and then a cheap non descript advanced auto tail pipe. Voice 004_001.mp3

If you decide to do it yourself, as mentioned above, take great caution with the bolts. Very easy to snap em if they're stuck. In the days preceding the job you'd be wise to spray each one with pb blaster penetrating oil so by the time you attempt to remove them they will be easier to undo.

That would be the one!

Wow.. You sure the car is messed up? Maybe the sending unit on the gauge just went kaput? That sucks man.

When my gl was doing this it was due to a clogged radiator. If you have a spare one you know is good I'd just throw it in there to be safe as well as a new wp.

Keep an eye on your rear view mirror next time you're climbing a hill. If you see any steam out the back while going up hill (easiest noticed at night with another car lighting up the back of your car) one of the small manifold cooling lines is cracked and leaking a little on to the top of the motor. It doesn't drop off until you go up hill.

3.9 is the more common dual range and had the " lowest " lo. That's in every dual range vehicle post 85 except the 85 and 86 rx. Those were 3.7 with a higher lo. I have a 3.9 that needs rebuilt. Still going when pulled, but lots of bearing noise.

Also one hint, the best way to ensure there is no air in your cooling system when you flush and fill is to have the nose of the car up in the air while filling and burping it.

The fan speed change is a good way to spot inefficiency in the heater core. You could be on to something with a flapper door being out of adjustment though. If the heat stays hot with the blower on full I'd start checking that route. I don't have much experience with the door adjustments though, I'm sure somebody else will chime in.

Well, is there as substantial a temperature difference between the settings as you imply? The a/c button is a little misleading. It doesn't draw from anywhere else that I'm aware of, what it does so is direct all air flow through the front dash vents only. What I'm thinking is that your heater core is still clogged. Try running the heat on the number 2 fan setting for a little while with the vents on ac. If it's coming out nice and toasty warm on 2 switch it up to 4. If it starts cooling off after a short amount of time your heater core is not heating up efficiently.

Just read through this whole entire thread. Exceptional quality workmanship. Regardless of whether people comment or not, you always have very useful and important, helpful information. Hope all is well for you and your family in this new year, Jeszek.

The light in the instrument panel is probably due to a plug that came unplugged during the lifting, dropping process. I'd snoop around the transmission and see if you see any dangling wires. The rattling, those are hard to figure without actually hearing it. Is it a high pitch rattle? Does it sound tinny? Does the rattling change with speed changes or does it just come and go? Off the top of my head check your exhaust is tight and if your car is 4wd I'd check all the joints in the driveshaft as well.

https://store.xbox.com/en-US/Xbox-One/DLC/Forza-Horizon-2-1990-Subaru-Legacy-RS/57a75a3f-bcb6-451d-9ba6-1b2e08aa5f3f 1990 Subaru Legacy RS downloadable content

Hill holder is great if you can get it adjusted properly. I've ditched my own but I wouldn't mind having it back, I think it's just a matter of personal preference. Glad you're getting the clutch adjusted. Best of luck.

When there's no adjustment on the fork it will have slop from the point where the throw out bearing isn't touching the pressure plate and back. Try adjusting the clutch with the hill holder disconnected completely. The further backed off the nut is, the closer to the floor the pedal engages. When you're at the point where it's grinding, but going in to gear, tighten the nut about 4 turns and you should be good.

Not too knowledgeable on the ea81, but I do know that all the guys here really recommend NGK spark plugs, and the wires too if you can find them, but especially the plugs.

I'm really wanting to go but not sure I can swing it. I've missed it these past few years consecutive due to various problems and this year I'm broke! Urrgh!

The lights won't be helpful in this scenario. Read OP.

Well lo is easy enough to tell, just look at the speedo at 3k rpms in first. Then look at it in lo. You'll be going significantly slower in lo. For 4wd high, if you have a set of metal car ramps, set them up in front of the front wheels. Then hose them down so they are all wet. Try and pull up on them in fwd (will be very difficult). Switch to 4wd high and it should pull right up.

It's included in a new car pack http://jalopnik.com/the-new-forza-horizon-2-pack-includes-every-car-youd-ev-1678024150

I'd undo the linkage under the car and engage it by hand then start it up and see if all is well. The linkage has three indentations. You push, pull it. I forget which direction is what but if you push it all the way in (2 clicks) it's either going to be 2wd or 4lo. And vice versa. Middle is 4wd high.

That's no problem. They just swap. Take everything from your car, the flywheel, converter, and trans and put them in the other car. If you do that, post your car up for sale. It's very much fixable.

Disagree. I've had mine just covered with the gasket for almost a year now no issues. Supplied gasket and shellac.