l75eya

This frightens me. And for what I've done, well, I'm glad you asked, thread! Today I changed the old oil that had a little bit of ...some type of cleaning agent added to it awhile ago. So long ago I forgot what it was, but it's been in there long enough that my oil had become a very nice shade of JET BLACK, so it was time to drain that all out. Mobil 1 10/40 and Mobil 1 oil filter, happy camper. Topped off coolant, topped off power steering, again. Leaking faster I think. Topped off gear oil. Brake fluid. Sprayed my squeaky U-Joint with some white lithium grease because I'm too lazy and cold to climb under there and slather real grease on it. Quieted it for now. Played with the Subaru XT Fog light wiring in my GL for a bit. Starting to sort that out. Hoping to finish that tomorrow and get the lights mounted finally. Snow tires have great grip in the dry and wet. Can feel how much softer the rubber is compared to all seasons, car rides much smoother on the highway despite the metal studs. They are loud though. And I'm probably wearing the studs out quickly running them on dry pavement, but I don't care for the studs so much, just the deep tread. They'll stay on there until March or so, then i have to get a set of all seasons.

Okay, so in my searches I have found that there is not *too* much information on the factory fog light options for the XT and GL model cars. I recently came upon a set of NOS Subaru XT fog lights, complete with their wiring harness and factory switch. With the help of TomRhere and mm88swrt, I got my hands on a few wiring diagrams. Here is the basic diagram for the installation of the Subaru XT Fog lights in to a Subaru XT model vehicle. The problem I was running in to was that I was not trying to install the XT fog lights in an XT. I was trying to install them in my GL and, alas, the wiring is not the same. I still haven't gotten everything sorted out 100% yet, but I'm close. I just wanted to share what I've got so far. The XT instructions explain for you to locate a Black wire with a White tracer under the steering column. It explains that the wire will lead from the ignition switch on one end, and to a 6 pin connector on the other end. The GL has a 6 pin connector with not one, but TWO Black leads with White tracers on them. One Black with White turns in to a Black with Yellow on the other side of the connector, and the OTHER goes from Black with White to White only. You need the one that goes to White only. This is the main power that leads to the lights at the end of the line. The Blue wire from the switch, from what I have determined so far is the trigger for the Relay. The two wires I need to figure out still is Red w/ Black and Red w/ White. Currently I have Red w/ Black connected to a Red w/ Black in the headlight harness and the Red w/ White connected to a Red w/ Yellow I found in the headlight harness (there is no Red w/ White in the Subaru GL wiring for the headlights) With this current set of wiring I have the current conditions for my fog lights + switch a.) Ignition off, headlight stalk in either parking lights or headlight positions: the fog light switch illuminates. b.) Ignition on, headlight stalk in Parking light position, fog light switch in on position: fog lights do not illuminate. c.) Ignition on, headlight stalk in Headlights position, fog light switch in on position: fog lights illuminate. d.) Ignition on, headlight stalk in Headlights + high beams position, fog light switch in on position: fog lights remain illuminated, fog light switch illumination cuts out. It's my understanding that the fog lights are supposed to turn off automatically when the HIGH BEAMS are switched on. It seems that right now I have the lead controlling that flow of power running to the switch illumination instead of the actual fog lights. I also understand that the fog lights ARE supposed to function when the only the parking lights are on, can somebody please confirm? And last but not least I need to figure out what's going on with that constant power to the switch illumination even when the key is switched off. Slowly but surely it's getting sorted. I hope to post up the final connections once it's all figured. Any and all input appreciated. Hope this helps somebody, as well!

If it's grabbing at very very bottom of the pedal, it can sometimes not be disengaging the clutch fully leading to either consistent or occasional difficulty changing gears. As far as where it grabs however, I don't think that matters. Adjust it to wherever you like it, though if it's too close to the top I can see it beginning to slip as it wears and having to adjust more often.

+1 on ensuring the clutch is adjusted properly. Does your clutch grab at the bottom or top of the pedal travel?

Wow... You guys on the west coast have the coolest stuff. Free beef?! I gotta move.

Needs some fogs!

Trying to compete with Nico. But my car isn't as nice. And neither is my camera. :-P

Seriously, everybody on this forum is extremely nice, and I love this place. But this question you are asking has been asked in my experience, a GAZILLION times, and if you can't find one of the THOUSANDS of threads on the topic, there no reason you shouldn't be able to find one of the MILLIONS of threads other people such as yourself started asking this question and a person with more patience than myself answered it kindly for the BILLIONTH time. Point made? Try googling ultimatesubaru.com 4x140. That alone should give you enough information to weed through for a week.

If you're having trouble finding it you're not trying hard enough.

Ah, i see. I don't think there are any of those chains out east by me here, and no receipt anyway. But I'm still happy with them. All four with 90 percent tread for 100 bucks. :-)

Les schwab no good?

Wheels look great. Concerning the lady, perhaps you should invest in a set of locking lug nuts. Lady might try something crazy to get them back, or perhaps the person who didn't want her to sell them. Doesn't hurt to be safe either way. Just a thought.

Got some snow shoes on there. 185/70/13s I found from a guy that moved here from Oregon. They came from a place I hear you guys talking about all the time, Les Schwab.

I should have mentioned I was viewing them from my cell phones browser, in the forums "mobile" format. My bad.

Looks fine to me.

Also if you ever part it out I'd be interested in the 3.7 rear diff, if that's what's back there.

It has a 3 speed automatic and on demand 4wd, lol. Just like you said. The 4wd should not be engaged at all times. Maybe all 4 wheels were spinning just because of some friction and lack of resistance on the wheels.

HAHAHA that's awesome! Do it!!

Dr. Tom, does that fancy shop manual doohickey cover ea82 wiring as well? I have a shop manual for an 89 GL but it doesn't have any wiring section. I'm trying to figure out exactly which wires to tap to hook up my XT fogs + factory switch to the GL.

All the information you need concerning checking codes is in the ultimate Subaru repair manual you can find at the root of these forums in the repair section.

Those two places in particular I sadly did not see. They look like great spots! I did stop at a few various places though, I was on my way back east from burning man.

To those with crunchy cold start gears. Double clutch. If you double clutch in to gear, it won't grind.

Did you follow any of our suggestions? And if so, which ones?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149308-no-start-issues-for-1990-loyale-resolved-added-starter-relay/?fromsearch=1 follow that link and the link in my post (post #2) for useful information regarding adding a relay.