l75eya

Hill holder disconnected. Not the HH. Clutch cable; I've adjusted it pretty much through it's entire range, from being adjusted so far that the clutch wouldn't engage even with the pedal up to the clutch barely engaging with the pedal to the floor. Not thinking it's an adjustment issue either. Don't get me wrong. I really wish it were that simple.

Did you not notice pooparu's avatar picture? It's obviously the latter. He just doesn't G.A.F. lol

Just brainstorming here; Reverse has no syncros, from my understanding. That's why it's important to come to a complete stop before engaging reverse. Why is it that it's common practice to shift in to 1st gear, and then in to reverse? What does that action do? I'm asking because if my understanding is correct, reverse is grinding because the input shaft is still spinning. If the input shaft is still spinning, that means my clutch isn't disengaging completely, though I do find that hard to believe I must admit that when I put the new throw-out bearing on, I re-used the old clips that clip it to the clutch cable fork. They were at first a little jiggly, so I removed them and bent them a tiny bit so they held tighter, then I re-installed them. Maybe one of those clips could have come off? Would I be able to see them if I pull the starter out (again!!) and peek in there? Or maybe if I remove the clutch cable fork rubber boot I can peek inside and see if the throw-out bearing is sliding uniformly. I'm so tired of working on this car now, I just want it to be done already..

Hill holder disconnected. Same crap. Just had a thought. Reverse doesn't have a synchro, yet it grinds in to reverse as well. That makes me think maybe it is not a synchro issue....

Maybe it's worth mentioning, could an improperly adjusted hill holder cause problems?

I should mention that when I have the car in a gear, I have plenty of pedal to let the clutch out and engage the gear. I've had it adjusted to the point where the clutch grabs real low on the pedal and real high.

I break stuff, sounds like it and acts like it but I don't think so. I've had the clutch adjusted through almost the whole range of adjustment and the problem persists.

Hsoj, I checked out that thread. Does sound similar but there are just too many variables to make heads or tails of it. He has ea81 parts, ea82 parts, XT parts. I'm working on a direct bolt on swap with a basically identical transmission. I'm thinking MAYBE the clutch fork is bent but I really doubt it because it seems my clutch is disengaging and engaging fine with extra pedal to spare. I appreciate the link though and it is food for thought.

The fact that it goes through the gears with the engine not running makes me think the linkage is fine. When it's in a gear when with the clutch pushed in it is trying to barely move the car. I'm at a loss.

Well, the car is back together but now I have a strange problem and I'm hoping I didn't just install a bad transmission. When the car isn't running I can put the trans through all 5 gears and reverse no problem. With the clutch in when I go to put it in forward gears the revs drop and the car tries to move slightly and I really have to slam it in to a gear. To get first I have to shove it in to 2nd and then really slam it in to first. It won't just go in to first. Same with reverse. It grinds into it and I have to slam it. Could this be a linkage thing? Or are the synchros completely shot? Halp!

I would first address the union between the shift linkage and the yoke it connects to on the transmission. You noticed significant wear? Check that all bolts and pins are tight. If they're not, tighten them. Then I'd suggest throwing in a new clutch if you have the time and space and money to throw at it. It is hard to make certain it's in neutral by hand, especially when all the linkage is still connected. What is the significant drop in RPMs you mention? How much did they drop?

What temperature zone are you in. Typically you want to run 10w40 if you're in 20s to 80s f.

My mind kept popping back to you mentioning that too, but the fact that you can seemingly engage and disengage the clutch keeps fighting me from believing that. I'd check on those things mentioned above before speculating further. Also, surprised nobody else has chimed in. Did you try anything with the 4wd engaged?

Good call on the battery, it was probably going to fail soon anyway, and now you have side lined any chance of a falling battery damaging your alternator (that can happen sometimes). Good move on getting the Haynes manual too, while not perfect, it is a great resource. The main thing to worry about with these vehicles is body and frame rust. If you intend to keep the car for awhile, try to add the very least localize any rust spots by treating them with a rusty inhibiting paint to at least slow it's progress. If possible cut it away and repair it. Most of all, enjoy it! Go for a drive and wave to other people driving old quirky cars. It's a treat!

That's why I cut to the chase and just swapped in a new one. If you're going to tear it apart anyway, may as well put a new pump.

Also, though it wouldn't explain the car stalling in neutral, what about the front wheels being locked up? Jack up the car and make sure they turn.

But the clutch fork must be working if he's able to disengage and engage the clutch. If he holds the clutch in, the motor runs. If he lets the clutch out, the clutch apparently engages and stalls out the motor. This seems to me to be more of a gear issue than a clutch issue... Is this a dual range transmission, push button 4wd, or just a fwd 5 speed? I bet the shifter linkage is messed up in some manner. If you can safely work under the car, if you undo the shifter linkage where it attaches to the transmission and drop it down so you can operate the linkage on the transmission itself, you can put it in neutral yourself to be sure it's in neutral and then start the car and see if it stalls again when you let the clutch out (in neutral) I'm thinking that way you can verify whether it is the exterior linkage connecting the stick to the trans (if putting it in neutral by hand works), OR that it's an internal problem (if putting it in neutral by hand doesn't cause any difference) The way you can tell it's in neutral by manipulating the transmission by hand is pretty straight forward If you grab the linkage by hand it has three forward/backward positions you can push/pull it in to all the way toward the front of the car is in gear all the way toward the back of the car is reverse it's that middle indentation that's neutral. At least it happened with the car ALREADY IN the garage, yes? lol, maybe the car just doesn't want to go through winter this year =P

Do these vehicles have rear discs or drums? Reason I ask, I'd check the rear wheel cylinders for wet spots if they are drums in the back. If not, just ignore me lol and good luck with figuring it out!

Yes they're great in the snow, but come on people. All jokes aside, they do get stuck lol. When high centered and the wheels aren't touching the ground, we're stuck!

With good maintenance, you can expect 300,000 + miles out of it. Congratulations on the acquisition, but we really really like pictures here. Care to share? Do the important things right now, change the oil even if it looks clean, check and replace any cracked belts, cooling hoses that look old and soft, etc.

Double post.

I guess I got lucky with my two Subarus. Both cars were from NY (the Bronx and Staten island), both were real low mileage (52,000 and 46,000) and we paid a grand total of $2,200 combined. One was 1k flat, the other 1,200. Neither of them have ever really leaked oil very badly. The Loyale did blow its front main seal around 70k and other than an oil pump replacement on the Loyale and a water pump, radiator, and a Weber in the gl, both are great runners. Then I read about all the other Subarus leaking so much and I count my blessings so to speak lol. Good luck with the repairs! I keep finding no matter what it is we have to do to keep these going, it's worth it.

I guess I got lucky with my two Subarus. Both cars were from NY (the Bronx and Staten island), both were real low mileage (52,000 and 46,000) and we paid a grand total of $2,200 combined. One was 1k flat, the other 1,200. Neither of them have ever really leaked oil very badly. The Loyale did blow its front main seal around 70k and other than an oil pump replacement on the Loyale and a water pump, radiator, and a Weber in the gl, both are great runners. Then I read about all the other Subarus leaking so much and I count my blessings so to speak lol. Good luck with the repairs! I keep finding no matter what it is we have to do to keep these going, it's worth it.

Then remove it and spin the blades. See if its rubbing anything. Honestly, just get an aftermarket electric cooling fan on eBay, write it up, mount it and call it a day. Total cost around 40 bucks maybe and probably an hour of your time to put it in.

Nice name. Does your brat have 2 fans, or 1? If it has two there is one electric fan and one mechanical fan driven by the water pump. If the noise is constant then it's probably the mechanical fan and what may be happening is the pulley bearings in your water pump may have failed and the pulley is loose allowing the fan to wobble around and hit stuff. See if the fan wiggles around, obviously with the motor off. If this is the case then you'll need a new water pump.