l75eya

Ah, gotcha. To answer your question, it's hard to say really. And I'm by no means a carb expert, but with the extensive amount of emissions crap hooked up to the manifold and the carburettor, if any of those vac lines are messed up, or more importantly if there's a vac leak, it'll make it run bad. On the flip side of that, even if all the vac lines are correct and there's a small bit of debris inside the carburettor clogging one of the jets or tubes or orifices, it'll also make it not run right. The whole reason I ripped my hitachi off and put a weber there was because it wouldn't idle, and that was most likely due to something clogged inside the carb. The issue is that the hitachi carb is just...pretty crappy, and all the emissions stuff is just more points of failure in the future, plus rebuilding one is more of a pain than it's worth, so I went ahead and got the weber, but I don't really have to worry about passing inspection either so that was one less thing I had to worry about when switching over to the weber. Not that it wouldn't pass, to that extent I wouldn't know one way or the other but; just another thing to think about.

From what i remember there's only one blue wire to the carb for the choke and even if that were disconnected it would only affect it when running cold. Btw got your pm, haven't gotten to a computer yet. On my phone

Thanks. I will be sure to keep my hand off the 4wd lever. Your answer is a Lyle confusing though, i meant will it be okay to drive in fwd only *with* my driveshaft connected to my 3.9 rear and my 3.7 trans. Maybe i wasn't clear. Thank you. Nice pics of the split open dual range btw

I'm going to be able to drive the car in fwd with the 3.9 still in the back right?

Pretty sure his car doesn't have a computer; If it's anything like my 87 carb car there is no check engine light, just an EGR light where the check engine light is on SPFI and MPFI cars, and all that's for is a service reminder every 60k to clean the EGR system. I don't think carb cars have an oxygen sensor either. To OP, I just skimmed through the posts here but your problem is most definitely vac line and/or carb related. Especially considering the vac lines have been messed with already, I'd start there. Timing should be 8* Most of the vac lines you can just cap off, so if you are trouble-shooting, start by doing that. If you're really interested in trying to retain the stock carburettor, I have ALL the emissions crap from when I put a weber on my car. Let me know if you are interested in that (air box, all solenoids, vac lines themselves, etc, etc) But finally, I would just recommend putting a weber on it. it really wakes up the engine and it's not that bad to install. I'd help you through it all as everybody else on here would and there are some great guides to follow. Mine install was done recently too, so that's all fresh in my head. Best of luck and gorgeous car!

Is it time for surgery? Lol

Also, can somebody help me figure out whether having a 1.196 lo gear ratio and a 3.7 ratio pumpkin in the back gives me a better lo-range or a worse lo than the regular 5 speed and the 3.9. I've been trying to figure it out myself but math is not for me and it's hurting my head. Is that going to be more torque/slower crawling speed or the opposite?

mother**%$#@..... That is not good news. I have no 4WD until I get a 3.7 ratio rear end in there now.....Not magnificent. Is there anyway to verify it's a 3.7 or does the fact that it's an old dual range (85) and that it's 25 spline tell you it's def 3.7? Will I be able to use it in FWD with the driveshaft connected or is that also a no-go? Looks like I'm going to be spending MORE money now trying to find a 3.7 rear which I imagine is not going to be easy...

It has a weber? What is your timing set at? I had mine at 20* but then it started flooding out on me real easy so i backed it off a little

On the contrary, I was trying to show off the incredible power with a one tire fire, but my plan backfired when the trans popped out of 1st gear mid fire. Now, I saw your car, and it actually has tread on the tires, so spinning yours is definitely even more impressive.

I'm "N" up there! Ha! Well, the first "N". Not sure if there are more than one.

Some more progress and also a big roadblock hit today, but first with the progress Got the resurfaced flywheel on, got the clutch plate and cover plate bolted up and lined up good, flywheel resurfaced and bolted up to the crank, 60 ft/lbs each bolt with a dab of loctite on. Out with the old, in with the new. The old clutch and pressure plate really weren't in terrible shape. Could be used again if anybody is interested let me know. Shipping on your dime. Friction disc with alignment tool in place The tip of the alignment tool sits in the pilot bearing in the flywheel then; You slide the friction plate up against the flywheel, leave the alignment tool in place and then bolt the pressure plate on. After the pressure plate is torqued down you can remove the alignment tool. So, got the clutch installed, and then transferred all the linkage bits from my old trans to the new one, as well as installed the new throw-out bearing. Got the trans lined up pretty good in the car and went to reinstall the axles, but they wouldn't go on.. the transmission is a 25 spline turbo car transmission Lesson learned. I was under the assumption that all turbo cars got single range or diff lock transmissions. I didn't think there were any turbo cars with just a straight up regular dual range 5 speed trans, but obviously I was mistaken so now I'm reaping the rewards of my own ignorance and asking for some help I already ordered a set of 25 spline axles from advanced auto. My main question is 25 spline and 23 spline axles both have the same amount of splines on outer joint end right? Please say yes. My only other thought was to switch the stubs from my old trans to the new one, but I'm going to guess that that's a real PITA to do.... Also, as murphey's law would have it, the dowel pins stayed on my motor when I took my trans out. The dowel pins from the new transmission decided to stay in the trans so now I have to remove a set of dowel pins with the trans almost in position because that's another thing I didn't notice until it was too late Live and learn.

I'm under the assumption that on a carb vehicle you shouldn't be able to hear the fuel pump at all

Congrats on the gig! No need for parts, still need a clutch cable or at least part number though. I'll give them a call tomorrow thanks for the heads up

I'm fairly sure that your mechanic of choice is incorrect. Seek a Subaru specialist.

Define hard to start. Turning over real slow? Anyway, the voltage reading before the car is running is fine. sitting at 12v while running is not. Should be just under 14v while running.

Could still be an axle. Does it only happen while you are accelerating? Outer joints make the loud clicking noise while turning. The inners can make a quieter clicking while accelerating in a straight line, and is more evident when the axles are cold. Not saying is definitely the axles but could be

I didn't want to lay underneath the car anymore! Lol jk, honestly because i want too sure which was easier but also because I'm going to have to swap those parts on to the new trans and i wanted to see how everything looks before taking it apart. The junkyard trans they just cut the linkage when they pulled it. Now i know for next time though! Dropped the flywheel off to get machined today. Progress.

It is normal thread. Once it turns a couple times it should be pretty free. Two wrenches. I should have thought of that. Good idea. Best of luck

If it's anything like on an ea82 car (and it sounds like it is) it is plastic and i basically destroyed the one on my car getting it off. Once it's threaded out, it pulls straight up and out. The correct 17 mm wrench fits but then the plastic flexes and the wrench slips. Why in God's name is it made out of plastic?

You really need a breaker bar with a pipe over it for extra torque. It was probably just not tight enough.

Thanks, G. Guess I'll try and figure out how to wire it up.. So the connections on the 85 are for the 4wd lights and reverse. The lever switch would illuminate the lo light?

For what it's with mine is an 87 and the junkyard trans is out of an 85.

Can anybody explain why theres a difference between my dual range and the replacement? In the pictures, mine has the plug on the side. That same location on the replacement has no plug and what appears to be a circle with a cross through it like on a no smoking sign. Supwitdat?

None, actually. It all went very smooth and straight forward. Even dropping the exhaust. I was very happy. Hopefully the reverse order goes as smooth.