l75eya

Drive shaft removed. Axles can remain attached to the wheels. Once the bellhousing is loose and you can shift the transmission around, you can remove the axles from the trans stubs entirely. Remove all interior trim around the shifters. Take off the phillips screws holding the rubber boot on and then undo the linkages. 12MM bolts. After they are all removed you can climb under the car and unbolt the pitch rod Separating. Finally.

Yanked. Fun job to do by yourself lol

Reserved.

While it's fresh in my head, Drain trans Remove four bolts attaching drive shaft to rear diff Remove two bolts on center carrier bearing Slide drive shaft out Remove roll pins from front axles Hop in the car and remove interior trim from shifters Remove Phillips screws from inner boot Slide boot up and undo bolts for shifter linkages Drop linkages Back under the car remove bolts for trans pitch rod mount and shifter mount Drop exhaust Remove bellhousing bolts and shift the trans back and down and out! Be careful!

This should be enough space. Don't know why it's upside down. Almost a foot and a half.

Up on ramps

Sorry turbo didn't see this till now. The old trans has a bad bearing, or what I'm assuming to be right now. I'll be splitting it open after its out. The car had 46k on it in 2012 when i got it so it was barely driven in 20 odd years and then i drove it across the country twice and never checked the gear oil :/

Well, not to nit pick, but technically it WAS the bearings BECAUSE the nut was loose. ....jussayin'

Ok! Got it. Now to tackle my rear axle, get a clutch cable from Subaru, and drop the trans. Well update with progress.

Of course it will run, it's still a Subaru right? So long as the motor has compression spark and fuel, it will always run. Hehe it takes aLOT to stop one of these cars.

That's kinda my reasoning as well. Think I'm going to stick with putting it up on ramps. Thanks for all the suggestions and advice

Oof. That sucks. Did you freehand it or did you use a drill press? I'm sure you don't have much wiggle room but perhaps you can ream the hole a little bit to shift the stud closer to where it should be and then maybe get it welded in place? The welder would have to be careful not to heat the hub too much though. I'm sure the will be other suggestions as well but either way, it was a noble effort, unfortunate one was off a bit. Best of luck.

Quick question gentlemen, I was planning on having the car up on car ramps under the front and rear. Am i going to be able to disconnect and reconnect the front axles from the trans with the wheels still on?

Take the fan off. Undo the bolts holding the pulley to the front of the water pump and then re-assemble it but leave the fan off. The first couple times you drive your car, watch your temperature gauge closely, but you really should be ok. I've removed the fan from my girlfriend's Loyale because of the accident she had and had to replace the electric one as well with one of those universals because the OEM fan would no longer fit. Her car never over-heats and only occasionally gets warmer than normal (heavy traffic, mid-day) I've also removed that fan from my own personal subaru, because it robs a negligible amount of power and because I hated the loud noise it made and my car also never overheats but does occasionally get a little above normal warm, still; rarely. Both of these cars have been this way for over 2 years.

Something along these lines http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-UNIVERSAL-SLIM-FAN-PUSH-PULL-ELECTRIC-RADIATOR-COOLING-12V-/251614926147?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a956b1543&vxp=mtr if you're in a hurry you can get them at autozone or advanced auto but they are way overpriced there.

The original metal framed electric fan? Go on ebay and order a slim electric fan. They mount with zipties through the radiator.

My girlfriend's Loyale has had a radiator half-a$$ed installed for a good year now. One bolt holding it in. Same reason. If you're looking for function over form, make it work.

Yeah, I'm counting on it being identical really, no reason I see it would vary at all. After I get my dual range out I'm going to split the case and see what there is to see. Maybe there's just one bearing inside that has grenaded. MR_Loyale, thank you for the diagram. That is a fundamental way to look at it and easily grasp what bearing is which and so on. Good stuff.

We checked between the seats, under the seats, behind the radio stack, we backtracked to the last few places we had been and we scoured the grounds, we talked about putting up Missing posters. He's gone =( Been about 2 weeks now. Poor bugger. Enteroctopus dofleini? Is Entero as charming as it's name implies? lol Your offer is appreciated. It would be a long, long drive at 65-68 mph. On a side note, we've been looking in to some body shops to perhaps get him straightened out a bit, and I'm on the hunt for a front clip!

Ben recently received new rear brake hardware and shoes. Then one of the new springs on the driver's side (bottom, blue one) decided to break, so today I fixed that. Ben also has new brake pads up front, and his brakes have been bled and adjusted so well that his brake pedal feels like a brand new car's. No joke. There's maybe 1/8" of free play in the pedal before the brakes engage and the pedal is SUPER firm. It's great. He still looks like hell though. And there is something wrong with his D-side Front brake caliper. He also is in need of a fresh pass axle and his tires balanced. He has sadly lost his best friend, Bill. Pictured below is Bill in happier times,smiling as usual (He was ALWAYS smiling) while taking a guest road-trip to the Black Rock desert in my car, Margaret. Bill Squiddlypants was Ben's best friend and Bill was last seen on Ben's dashboard where he typically resided unless I was driving, in which case he usually would slide off the dash and on to the floor. On one such occasion of being on the floor I placed him back on his dashboard. The very next day he was gone. No leads have been found and he is assumed to be making his way back to his birth-ocean where his other Bill brethren all swim and dance to their favorite Beatles song, Octopus' Garden. We miss you Bill, and we will never forget your big black eyes and your permanent smile.

So that's a yes? lol

Spending the better part of the day just reading up on things, Recently came across this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47560-85-89-5-speed-dr-4wd-trans-to-80-84-body-style/ Do I really have to drop the exhaust to get the trans out? I'm sure it'll be obvious if I have to or not when I look under the car, but I'm hoping not. Last time I messed with those exhaust manifold bolts they did NOT want to play nice and I would up having to bring the car to meineke because I didn't want to deal with it. They had to drill the studs out and tap them. Funny how the thing I'm most nervous about with a trans removal doesn't even have to do with the trans...

First order of business; FINALLY GOT A GRILLE!!! Thank you to USMB member mr_whirly for meeting up with me and hooking me up with this fantastic grille! Mentions to JesZek as well if it were not for extraordinary shipping rates, I'd have one he was going to give me. Thank you anyway JesZek! Also today I made a 200 mile round trip to go pick up a 5 speed dual range to replace the failing unit that is in my car; The gentleman at the junkyard told me the computer shows that this transmission has been in stock since 1993 and it has been sitting untouched in a shipping container since it was pulled from a 1985 GL back then. That means it may well be a 29 year old transmission but it was only in use for 8 years. It was listed as having 89k miles. I've never pulled or installed a trans before but I'm sure I'll be able to do it especially with the great resource that is the USMB. So far I have ordered an Exedy clutch kit to install with it, and I'm going to have the flywheel resurfaced. While I'm preparing for that I will also be pulling the rear driver's side axle as it is pretty much shot and I'm hoping that, after failing to remove the axle stub from the pass side axle when I replaced it, I'll be able to get the stub off this one so I can use it with a replacement axle I have laying around that does not have a stub. Once that axle is replaced the car will have had all 4 axles replaced, though, due to my own neglectful driving (many one tire fire burnouts) my front pass axle needs replacing again. I'm hoping to source an OEM Subaru clutch cable this week for when the trans goes in as well. After the axles are done and the trans and clutch and clutch cable are done, all that's really left to do is take care of the front end. It could use new ball joints, tie rods/ends and shocks. The plan is to throw on new rotors and calipers some point soon as well. Pending all of those developments I will on the lookout for some 14 or 15" 6x140 rims from early Nissans and Toyotas, and then there is a vendor selling 2" lift kits with a 1.5" crossmember drop I'm interested in. I need more info on the whole steering linkage extension though. Then, eventually, and hopefully before my car folds in half, I have to find somebody that can repair the rotted frame rail up front.

Thanks Scooner! I went ahead and ordered the regular 4wd GL clutch kit, Exedy brand. I'd like to have it sent out and cleaned but I'm on a shoe-string budget and I doubt there are any shops nearby me that do anything like that either way. I'll clean it up as best I can myself.

Still on rockauto. I see a clutch pilot bearing, I see a clutch release bearing...... Can anybody give me a little low-down on where these go and the difference between the two? Are there any difference between the FWD or 4WD or 4WD D/R of either? I want to replace as many things as I logically should while the trans is still sitting on my floor." Essentially, if you go to rockauto and look up an 87 GL and then expand the manual transmission box, I'm curious about every bearing and seal listed in there. Does anybody have a blow up diagram of the trans? That'd be helpful.