l75eya

Perfectly fine to cruise at 65-70mph. Drove 9 hours straight to Canada like that. Got about 23-5 mpg. When you got 100 you'll be at 6,500. It's interesting.

adjusting rear drums and bleeding brakes on loyale.

Righteous work here, and happy customers. Is the cross member drop necessary on an ea82 2" lift? Would you offer a discounted price for just the front lift if I were to plan on lifting the rear with different coil ssprings/shocks? And finally if I use your complete lift (front and rear) with cross member drop, that's going to keep my front axle angle closer to stock but what about my rear axles? Thanks! Interested..

Around here I'd probably put it on that with a reserve at 6k and a buy it now of say..... 9,500 and see what happens. US dollars. That's just me though

Look at all them bugs on that plate! And I bet most of them were from Florida alone! Haha

Contact Subaru. They might be interested (no joke).

Get a can of carburettor cleaner, assuming it's carbureted, and try that out down the throat of the carb. Condolences about your dad. Best of luck.

Is it fuel injected or is it carburetted?

I used jeszek's initial approach to the water passage and that was to just use shellac on the manifold and gasket and seal it that way. I think Jeszek wound up having that filled in the long run because he was removing the carburettor a lot and eventually the gasket started to leak around that coolant port. At any rate, I haven't had any trouble with it 6 months in.

Ah, noted. In the meantime you should post a wanted ad in the classifieds section for the body parts you need. I got a hood, bumper, fender, headlight, valence, and the thin trim above the bumper all for 100 dollars at a junkyard. Somebody local have a parts car that they'd let the parts go even cheaper. Best of luck!

Word of advice, you need to have the new parts (fender, hood, bumper, headlight, etc) on hand before you can consider all the straightening work done. You're not going to know if you're done straightening things out until you can test fit those parts to see how well they all fit together. After that's settled I'd concentrate on mechanical bits.

I got Moog tie rods off rockauto.com for a decent price

Looking forward to see where you go with this. Seems like you're taking your time and doing everything right, and it looks like you have the skill to back it all up. I love watching these threads progress as they inspire me to one day do something similar for myself. Best of luck and thank you for sharing all the photographs of your progress!

There's the tie rod ends, which are the parts closest to the wheel that has the joint in it, and then the tie rod itself that the end screws on to. The tie rod itself threads in to the rack. It has a metal washer that you bend around the end of it when it's threaded on to lock it. Perhaps that thin metal washer worked loose and your tie rod backed off a bit, but I can't see that happening without the tie rod end being disconnected as well. The tie rods themselves should not easily rotate, especially with the locking washer fastened. When you pull back the rubber boot you will see. I used a monkey-wrench to loosen/tighten mine. Not quite right tool, but it got the job done. I pull the tie rod ends out of the knuckle and spin THEM when adjusting. That's why they have a locking nut.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148005-ignition-switch-relay-replacement/ Just did this myself. Exact problem. Followed a link in the thread, total cost $8 at advanced auto.

I love what the kybs did. Put them front and back in the Loyale, about 35k ago. Still awesome.

High mileage teats.

LOL! You got 80's subaru-ed :-P

Late 80s. My 87 GL has the old logo, my girlfriends 93 Loyale has the newer logo. Somewhere between 87 and 93

Insightful answer!

Valuable information. Thank you. May go pick this up and rebuild it. Would be my first engine tear down..

At any rate, gloyale, I appreciate the insight. Always looking to learn. Thanks for the input.

I'd think 5 points go hand in hand with helmet and neck bracing as in the HANS in racing. Without those devices I don't think a 5 point would be useful. That's my uneducated guess.

Thank you. Never looked in to motors before, so I'm in alien territory, I appreciate the input. I imagine the main thing I can do is see if the motor turns if I check it out right? Are those motor non interference? At $50 I guess no matter what condition it's not a bad deal..

Are there any type of identifying marks I should look for if I check it out to figure out exactly what it is? I mean sure it's only 50 bucks but I'd at least like to know exactly what kind of 2.2 it is.