l75eya

Literally took me about 3 minutes to look up a 93 loyale on rockauto and screenshot it.

Just tell them it's for a 93 loyale. They were all spfi

Yeah that's weird. So no power mirrors?

Yes. Pull the door panel, look for the power window motor, the connector attached to it will only have two pins. One polarity sends it up, the other way around will bring it down. Only if the motor itself isn't toast though.

Damnsubaru, I'd kindly recommend that you flush out your old brake fluid and fill the system with new. Brake fluid degrades over time and absorbs moisture leading to a spongy pedal and a lower boiling point. Also, even with new rotors and pads on the front, if your rear brakes are drum and the pad material on the shoes is very thin, you will have a lot of pedal travel, so check your back brakes as well. And front wheel drive ea vehicles don't have automatic adjusters back there, you actually have to adjust them manually by turning the adjuster knob on the backing plate. Rear drums that are simply out of adjustment can lead to a low pedal as well. Hope you can get them sorted though, my loyale was like that when i got it, that was one of the first things i fixed actually.

Among other speeds/rpms, yes. 106 being the highest and well...actually I really wouldn't recommend sustaining such a speed for very long. You're hovering a hair above 5,000 rpm at that point. In my opinion that's about the point where you're starting to make that motor scream.

Actually that 4wd bit is a good idea. Lock it in 4wd and take a couple tight pavement turns, let them axles bind up real good. Maybe a couple screechy hops. Sure won't sound or feel good, but it's going to put more force on that axle than you'll ever be able to. I get em' out with a big chisel and a sledgehammer, but that's a lot easier to do with the car up on a lift than working on the ground with a jackstand. That's what I do when even the air hammer won't get them to budge. Something I've seen other guys in the garage do is use ratchet straps to pull them out. I've never tried that one. Seems a little sketchy for me, but it works for them, and no injuries yet.

And that is completely false. I've never bragged, simply stated curiosities and facts, and I never *ever* drive at high speeds in dense traffic or in inclement weather. 13" tires may be cheap ($106 for 4!) but they are not very good at slowing down a vehicle travelling at a high rate of speed, or at maintaining that very tiny to begin with contact patch they have with the ground when the ground is wet. No thank you, I have too much life ahead of me and too little metal protecting me in that car to do something dangerous like that. Hitting 100 mph on an empty stretch of highway while doing a 220 mile drive late at night though? Yeah, I'll do that. Cruising at 90 on a sparsely populated interstate? Yeah. I think maybe you're just thinking that I'm hitting these speeds while surrounded by rush-hour traffic and whizzing past school buses and zipping in and out of all four lanes? Because that's not the case, I assure you.

Okay, so where should I start? The tires are Sumitomo 175/70/13s that I installed myself about 7 months ago. The tires were manufactured in 2016. They have a speed index rating "S" indicating they are guaranteed safe up to speeds of 112 mph. I have never exceeded 112 mph on them. They currently have roughly 12,000 miles on them and I rotated them four months ago when they had about 8,000 miles on them. The balljoints were done last month. The inner and outer tie rods were replaced last year The shock absorbers were replaced about 3 years ago and new coil springs were installed up front at the same time. The rear is still riding on the original springs. The sway bar end links are good. The control arm bushings are good. The motor mounts were replaced about a year and a half ago. The CV axles up front have been in the car for about 3 years. They came from the automatic loyale I mentioned in my post, and were installed in that car new about 5 years ago. I re-balanced the tires when I rotated them. Each lug nut is torqued to 75 ft/lbs with a Snap-On 1/2" torque wrench (that cost more than the car!) Each tire is inflated to 35 PSI Like I said elsewhere, I am a mechanic, I maintain my car, I know every nut and bolt on my car(s). I would never drive a car if it were unsafe at ANY speed (that it is capable of driving). I'm not trying to impress anybody, I'm not trying to show off, I'm not trying to advocate dangerous behavior. If you don't feel confident and comfortable driving your car at fast speeds; dont' do it. Please. I have absolute confidence in every aspect of my 24 year old car because I have had it on my lift and I am the only person that works on it. You go ahead and judge whomever, however you want to judge and decry whatever actions you feel justified in doing so, you're absolutely free to do so. I did *explicitly* state, however, that this thread was not to be taken as any type of indicator as to how somebody should drive on an interstate. That being said though, I'm not sure when the last time you drove i-78 in NJ, but I happen to drive it regularly. 90 mph is the average speed, believe it or not. I've had dump-trucks flashing their lights at me in the MIDDLE lane (because no trucks in left lane) to get out of their way, and I've glanced at the speedo and I was doing 90. Let that sink in. If you're going 55 mph you're asking to either cause an accident, or be in one. When traffic is congested, people are doing 70-75 mph and tailgating each other (while I hang 5 car lengths back because I'm not stupid) and zipping in and out of each lane trying to creep up in the jam. When traffic is light, people are doing 75-85 mph and that's typically where I'll be hanging out in the middle lane doing 80. When traffic is practically non-existent everybody is doing 90+ and I've been passed while doing 90 by people that made me feel like I was standing still. You're simply not wrapping your head around just how fast people drive on the highway in my region. Is it legal? No. Is it unsafe? That's debatable (Speed has never killed anybody; becoming suddenly stationary is the killer). Do you have to condone it? No! If it just so happens to be your job to scold others and falsely presume certain conditions (Mismatched, old tires....), then congratulations, you've done just that. I'm not trying to create waves here and I love and respect this community and all those involved in it because I've always admired just how well mannered most people on USMB are, but I will not remain idly silent while somebody is creating false scenarios pertaining to me. I'm surprised this thread hasn't become locked and I'm grateful, but I'll also completely understand should it be. Respect and warm regards.

Didn't you drive it home after that?

Nice wagon! Catbus, totoro?

5,600 rpm wow. For how long? Sheesh. I imagine in a situation such as that, the motor is probably modified in some way and also very well maintained.

Edit: double post. Stupid cell phone.

I would have them turned before resorting to replacing things. Typically you can get a set turned pretty cheap. Wild you're having these issues. Bummer but I'm sure you'll get it.

I've come across those types of people myself. Unbelievably devoid of sensible thought. But still polite. Haha, glad you got to drive it some. With the clunk, check your mounts and your control arm bushings. See if anything is loose, has some play. If your ej22 has single exhaust ports on each head it is an interference motor. If it has dual ports on each head (4 exhaust ports total) it's non interference.

(the subtitle "safe highway speeds" in the title pertains to engine rpm, not what one's opinion on what speeds are considered safe to travel. This thread isn't about driving habits or opinions on that matter, it is about information regarding gear ratios and engine reliability, maintainance, and engine speed sustainability) Over the years it's come to my attention on many occasions that a lot of people are put off by the (relatively) archaic gearing ea82 body cars have. I can't tell you how many posts I've seen on here of people questioning the high RPMS their car is turning at highway speeds (especially those with the 3 speed automatic transmission) I wanted to make this thread to document certain things I know through my own personal experience to be true, as well as to qualm any fears some people may have in regards to their vehicle and its ability to "Keep up with traffic" on today's highways. I've been driving ea82 vehicles for about 10 years now, and in those 10 years I've driven a good variety of their different formats: A 93 3 speed FWD SPFI Loyale I drove around for a good 6 years or so, both on the highway and in city driving. I took it to Canada and back from New Jersey An 87 dual range 4WD 5 speed carby GL I drove around for 3 years, both on the highway and in city driving. I drove that car across the country four times. An 86 push button 4WD 3 speed MPFI turbo GL-10 that is a current project I have that I have driven on the highway a few times and around town every now and then a 93 5 speed FWD SPFI Loyale that is currently my daily driver. I drive this car on the highway a-LOT, and around town a-LOT. In fact I drive this car....a-LOT. I've put 16,xxx on it over the past 10 months and 700+ miles on it just this past weekend. I am also an automotive mechanic and I am the sole person who has maintained each and every one of the above cars while they were owned by me. The key component to driving any of these old subarus around so much is to have confidence in them, and, knowing that I am the person responsible for their upkeep, that confidence is something I have never lacked, and I drive my cars accordingly. That being said; Regarding the 3 speed automatic cars, yes, you can do 70 mph in it. It's not going to explode. At least not unless it was going to for some reason or another anyway. I recommend that you stay on top of your oil changes (I use mobil 1 conventional 10/30 or 10/40 oil + filters year round in all my vehicles), and that you are confident in the condition of your timing belts and components. The issue here is that at 70 mph you're going to be running that lil ea82 at about 4,100 RPM. Now that's no big deal to the short stroke boxer motor itself (these engines are used in airplanes where they run high RPM for hours), but it's your alternator, your waterpump, and your timing belts and their pulleys and idlers that may complain here. If you just picked up a 92 Loyale with 38,000 miles on it that means it has slept a lot in it's 25 year existence. The bearings in that original alternator aren't going to like being subjected to you running the motor at 4,000 rpm for long. Neither is that super dried out and old timing belt. This goes for any other car, but the 3 speeds especially because of how poorly they are geared for highway use. So basically what I'm saying is that if you plan on using your 3 speed car on the highway, please make sure important components such as those I've mentioned are in good shape, and/or have spares at the ready. Also make sure the transmission fluid is in decent condition and the differential oil is as well. My real world experience with the 3 speed car on the highway is well over 10,000 miles. I drove that 3 speed loyale from NJ to Toronto doing 65-70 mph basically the whole way. It took a long time, but that was hours and hours and hours of sustained 4,000-ish rpms. And it'll get about 25 mpg at those speeds. I've also peaked a 3 speed auto at 100 mph @ 6,400 rpms. Out of curiosity. I've also driven a 3 speed auto car at speeds in excess of 75 mph for over 3 hours straight. Moving on to the 5 speed dual range 2 things; It is awesome. Please check your gear oil. I burned mine up because I drove it across the country twice without following my own advice. That being said it had no problem running 65, 70, 75, 80, 85 mph but my god the thing was gutless climbing those mountains out there. 3rd gear with my foot to the floor barely maintaining 55. This car taught me the lessons about low mile cars. I bought this 87 GL in 2012 and it only had 46,000 miles on it. I slapped plates on it, loaded it with people and stuff and took it from NJ to Nevada twice. The first trip I had 2 things happen; the water pump gave up the ghost as soon as my 5,000+ mile trip concluded and I was back in my hometown, and the 28 year old gear oil had (unbeknownst to me) turned to water and I fried the trans. I took it across the country again with fresh gear oil a second time and had no trouble, other than noise. Risky, but it did it. I still have that trans, and it still worked when I pulled it, just made lots of noise. I'm not even going to touch on the 3 speed push button in the turbo car because I don't drive it much. All I can say is that it seems to be geared differently than the FWD naturally aspirated car. 4,000 rpm is about 73 or so mph in it, whereas that would be 68-70mph in the FWD car. Last, and most extensively researched but surely not least is the FWD 5 speed in my daily driver Loyale. I have numbers due to recent curiosity: (All numbers are while in 5th gear) 3,450 rpm - 78 MPH 3,600 rpm - 80 MPH 3,900 rpm - 86 MPH 4,200 rpm - 89 MPH 4,500 rpm - 95 MPH 4,900 rpm - 98 MPH 4,950 rpm - 100 MPH 5,100 rpm - 106 MPH I find myself typically cruising at about 80-85 mph and my ea82 is humming along comfortably in the 3,600 - 3,900 rpm range. Right where the old 3 speed auto I used to drive would comfortably sit while I jostled along at 65 hahaha I find this convenient because anytime I notice I'm around 4,000 rpm, I know I'm going a bit *too* fast. I honestly find myself looking at the tach more than the speedometer. Once you get past that 4,500 rpm threshold though, two things happen: You lose the ability to (relatively) easily maintain speed (You can hold 95 without having to have your foot to the floor the entire time) and, you really start pushing the limits of your motor. I've run these engines at over 5,000 rpm for a couple hours and nothing catastrophic occurred, but I really would advise against anything over 4,500. Not to mention, there's no more power up there anyway. It all starts around 4,000 rpm and just rapidly drops off over 4,500. So to recap; 4,000 rpm = OK 4,500 rpm = Still OK! Over 4,500 rpm = Not smart. Make sure your timing belts and pulleys are good Maintain your vehicle HAVE GOOD TIRES (don't go flying around on dry-rotted tires from 1996) And every bit of information I shared in this post is entirely based on my personal experiences with various ea82 subaru vehicles over the course of the past decade. Your mileage very well may vary (And it probably will as the FSM shows a good bit of gearing variation through the 1985-1994 ea82 run).

True, I should have worded that differently. What I actually did was capture screenshots from video I took with a mounted camera (of which my car has 3. Including one that maps my route and tracks my speed) And it's 24 years old. And meticulously maintained. The only thing that concerns me about high speeds is anything exceeding the teeny tiny lil 13 inch tires' speed rating, which I do not do (S - 112 mph). Though I do agree that it is not a very safe care in the event of an accident... I guess one thing you alluded to is right though, driving out here is a little different than there. You can be doing 95 and still be getting flashed at by the guy tailgating you because he was going 105. Most other cars are doing 80-85. Hell, I was stuck behind a dump-truck (dump-truck!) at 80-85mph for a little while on my way back home. Not trying to make anything sound cool, not doing anything out of the ordinary, and not stupidly holding a cell phone in my hand while beaming down the highway, so rest assured. Not trying to be a smart-rump roast, either, as I mentioned above, I'm respectfully stating that the information you shared above is incorrect, at least in the case of mine and any other cars with the same configuration as mine. I became intrigued with the lack of accurate information and have now decided to share data regarding certain speeds and their associated engine RPM, which I'll post tomorrow once I've got all the screenshots I want to use. Cheers and safe travels. /threadjack

I must respectfully claim that information Incorrect. 95 is not even crossing 5,000 rpms yet. You're only just approaching 5,000 rpms at 100! And it has nothing to do with the state I was in or anything to do with geographical location at all? It's just the way I drive. 4,000 rpm is 90 mph. This is with a 93 fwd 5 speed transmission on 175-70-13 (stock) tires. I just put 600+ miles on this car over the past three days. On the latest leg (still have another 220 miles to do tomorrow) I was on my way back from Hershey, PA to Manhattan. Made that trip in 2 hours doing 95 (4,200-ish rpm) most of the way. I don't understand everybody talking about how they have trouble hitting 90 or 100 mph in their 5 speed cars. The 3 speed, yes, I absolutely understand because 100 mph in a 3at is 6,300 rpm. You're running out of gear and head-flow at that point and anything over 100 in a 3at is pretty much noisy, time consuming, and dangerous for your engine. Maybe it's your altitude out there? But that would only apply to the carbed vehicles... I have no real trouble hitting 100 mph in my car, and I've actually peaked it at 110 a few times. It can maintain 100 ok but at that point it would be pushing 5k. 4,500 rpm is about the most I'm comfortable with my motor turning for any extended period of time. I've run an ea82 at 5k for 3 hours straight before, and it took it without complaint, but I wouldn't want to do it on the reg, and not with the car I rely on every day. And it is for these experiences mentioned above that I'm intrigued on other people's rotor screw backing out. Because I know, compared to most others, I really run my car pretty hard. And I've never had that issue before. Perhaps the threads have been stretched due to an overtorqued set-screw previously and now you it won't torque down properly. Riveting is sure to solve the problem though!!! Tomorrow I will snap pictures at various speeds on my way back to Pennsylvania for reference and informational purposes and create an appropriate thread for it. Sorry for the thread-jack Mr. Loyale! I hope Uno and the GL are both doing good for you!

My cars are SPFI, optical pickup distributor with a set screw rotor.

I've never had that happen to my cars. And I run the piss out of them. 6k-7k shifts, 95mph on the highway, I mean that little guy spins pretty good in my daily and it's never come out. I wonder why other people have issues with theirs backing out.

Thank you, Tom. That's exactly what I was remembering from my old GL. This Loyale I have does not have any of that, just the 12mm and 10mm nut on the end.

No, this was definitely EA82. I *may* be thinking of the hill holder setup though, but this was on my old 1987 5 speed GL. It had an assortment of washers on a cable with a fork on the trans, but like I said, that may have been the hill holder.

Where to start, where to start? I took the calmasters off the tin can because they were rubbing too much and swapped them with the EA81 alloys I had put on the GL-10 (fwd car + weak springs + lots of stuff in trunk = no good. Now I know calmasters have a different offset to stock rims and stick out a little bit more): I think they look more at home on the blue GL-10 than the Tin Can anyway, and with the air suspension on the GL-10, the body of the car never sits low enough to rub the wheels. At least when the suspension is pumped up, the second picture shows the car slammed after sitting a few days. I swapped off the stock 93 black bumper for the painted front bumper from my old 87 GL (damn, I miss that car) I put new rotors and pads on it. Finally. I changed the oil. Finally. I adjusted the clutch free-play and re-aimed the headlights and I replaced the worn out zipties holding the 85-86 grille in with brand NEW zipties. I love this car. Got it 2 years ago at 97,xxx miles and just turned 116,000 the other day. So far aside from general maintenance, I've put an alternator in it. Did I mention that I love this car?

Hey, it's my turn to revive a dead thread, but I do so regarding pertinent information that I can't find (I have searched). I was just adjusting the clutch on my Loyale and I realized that all it has on the outer fork end is the two adjusting nuts (inner 12mm outer locking 10mm) and that's it. I seem to recall some of my other subarus having an assortment of convex washers and perhaps a small bushing IIRC sorted out among those two adjusting nuts, is my car missing bits on the adjusting end of the clutch cable? Does anybody have a picture of theirs that they know is factory original?

Oh I'm sorry I was thinking this was an ea when I read thru. I'm not certain on the ejs, I do know the dual port exhaust phase I ej18 and 22 motors are non interference, but don't know anything about the ej25s