l75eya

That car is gorgeous. Surprised I haven't seen it on here. Looks to be in fantastic shape. Price is very slightly on the high side, to me. I'd go 3500 for it. Doesn't look like there is a single spot of rust on that car and if there isn't, def worth 35. Any cheaper than that is all the better because once the engine blows a gasket, which will maybe happen, that car is the perfect candidate for an ej swap.

You've heard about the ford f series dual tank fuel pumps? The Subaru fuel injection pump is expensive, yet an alternative that bolts in is the in line pump for 80s model Ford pickup trucks with the dual tanks. It's like 60 bucks. Carb pump won't work, not enough pressure.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47526-subaru-ecu-codes-for-1983-1988/?do=findComment&comment=383549

You need to follow the steps outlined on this forum to pull the ecu trouble code before we can help. I'll try and dig up the process and post back.

92? Ask for ones for a brat from the 80s.

What does the code say the problem is?

This happened to me. It was my license plate bulb/socket. Did you check that out yet?

Did any of them come without jump seats? Maybe this is just before they had the seats installed.

Some of our cars just might very well be in that picture. Can anybody tell if they are LH or RHD?

Hoses. Coolant hoses. There two main fat ones connected on each end of the radiator. Should replace those as with age they soften and degrade and can fail. You're on to a good start with the timing belts and water pump, may as well put new accessory belts too (the ones for power steering if equipped and the alternator). Aside from all those things you're pretty much set. Let's see some pictures!

From my latest excursion. Palisades interstate park. Beautiful views.

Don't think they made imprezas until 93. That being said, find yourself a fwd 5 speed impreza with the ej 1.8. That is the most bullet proof car I have ever seen/driven. Ever. And 40 mpg if you drive right. Jesus that car was a beast. R.I.p.

if you leave the cap on, remove the bolts while keeping downward pressure on the resevoir to maintain the seal, then after the bolts are removed (and lines obviously) you can just lift it up and flip it over pretty quickly with minimal spillage.

Lol at the duck taped roof. I'd love to go to inspection with that set up. Sounds like the engine swap went well! If you could document the quad light swap that'd be awesome. There's lots of people that want to do that swap that don't know all that's involved.

Can't you just go to an auto parts store, get a union and a piece of brake line and do it?

Is it buy one get one free? Do you have any coupons? Is there a limit of one per person?

Just wait till it's all together and somebody will chime in, "nice job!" Lol

Check timing?

Same thing happened to me fairly recently. Did a ball joint and when i drove the car later on there was like crazy amounts of steering wheel shake. The whole steering wheel would rotate a quarter of a turn. Messed up stuff. Long story short I broke my brain trying to figure it out for like two weeks. Turned out coincidentally the tire developed a bubble. New tire, problem solved.

Wow, super nice brat! You could sell that for good money. Check out resale on eBay. About the three lines, I'm pretty sure one is main fuel line, one is a fuel return line, and one is a vent. It's not clear above, did you install a new fuel pump? Try blowing compressed air through the fuel line.

Got to cracking on trying to nail down my girlfriend's Loyales intermittent non start conditions. Put in a new, remanufactured starter from autozone (found an etching on the old one from whomever must have installed it. Initialed with the date 7/11/03), cleaned up all connections, ground, 12v, replaced the connector that attaches to the 1/4" spade terminal as it was loose. Car still wouldn't start with electrical accessories on. Swapped batteries with my GL and seems to be okay for now. Only time will tell. Also replaced the shoes and shoe springs on the rear and repacked the bearings with fresh grease.

I would not have a problem towing the DL... just gear down BEFORE you head down a 6% downgrade. Agreed. Well before. Use brakes sparingly to keep from overheating. Any emergencies shift into 4-lo and let clutch out slowly. That's how I'd approach it anyway.

Met Mr_Loyale and his awesome Loyale. Good times! Bad rump roast road trip he is on! Geeked out Subaru style and snapped some pics. Best we could do at night!

Try what jono said. Throw the fronts on the back. See if there's a change.

Do you get good pressure out of the hose itself, before the nozzles.