l75eya

Nice! Hope they hold. Lots of temperature change there.

No code. That's not a check engine light, it's just the EGR service light that comes on every 50k miles. Mine came on as scheduled right at 50k, I just couldn't be bothered to connect the wires under the dash to reset it when I had a roll of black tape handy.

Scratch that. Bit the bullet, ordered a new carb from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Progressive-Electric-Carburetor-Conversion/dp/B000JLMTP4/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1399080086&sr=1-14&keywords=weber+32%2F36#productDetails can't wait! Does anybody know if this kit looks like it comes with the appropriate adapter plate? I'm thinking so but I'm not too concerned because I think I'm going to get the one piece trans-dapt adapter jes-zek used on his installation.

Then there's this guy, ending soon. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-32-36-DGAV-Carburetor-Water-Choke-Made-in-Italy-/291133267962?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c8e51ffa&vxp=mtr I figure the broken nipple on the choke housing is easily fixed. Water choke mechanism, just tap in to one of the bypass lines on the intake manifold and good to go, correct?

Well, I tried it all. Messed with high idle, messed with the idle, checked the auto-choke, tried disabling it, tried disabling anti-diesel valve, sprayed out carb as much as possible with carb cleaner and stuck a tube of compressed air in every orifice I could reach with it, changed the fuel filter, checked every vac line I could see. I stopped short at checking my fuel pressure and I haven't taken a look at the PCV valve. Would a bad PCV cause intermittent idle issues? I'm pretty much throwing in the towel at this point. I've got my eye on a weber http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146258-does-this-look-like-a-good-weber-to-rebuild/

Checked EGR. It's good. :-\

Thinking through the pdf on my phone is exactly what I'm doing lol. Troubleshooting a non idle situation the htkysa book mentions to check the anti diesel valve. There's a general description of its location on the carb but I was wondering if anybody has a picture of the exact piece. Htkysa really focuses on gen 2 cars, and as I said, the description is real vague.

In digital form. Funny you mention it too, not even an hour ago I was thinking about having a look in there.

Quote from seller "The shaft and butterfly's don't appear to have any slop, I just double checked and everything is working as intended. Thank you for asking."

I'm pretty much at my wits end with my hitachi. For four years it was fine, then poof, there goes my idle. I've been trying to get it sorted out (see thread here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146194-please-help-idle-issues/ ) but I'm not having any luck. It's just giving me a reason to get a weber, but I'm not made of money, not even partially, so I'm looking for a weber on a strict budget. That being said, I've found this one on ebay so far http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-32-36-DGAV-33B1-Carburetor-Volkswagen-/161287908035?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258d822ac3&vxp=mtr I'd be in about $70 assuming nobody bids on it, then additional for the rebuild kit, then additional for the adapter plate. I'm thinking it'll total out around $140 or so. Going to keep hunting. When I find any others that seem to me like a deal i'll post them up here for the board's approval =P Edit: Does anybody have a part number for JUST the adapter plate, if I were to get it seperately? Thanksmuch

Do you have a part number for that lighted key? You're talking about the black head key with the little green light right? Mine broke!

OooOoOo ... Touring wagon. $750 would be a nice price for that wagon to me.

Looks like it is custom. If you zoom on pic you can see body work lines by gas cap. Shortened bed?

No gas tapping required to get it to fire back up. Once the idle is gone I'll let the car stall. If I try to restart it immediately, it won't start UNLESS I give it gas, and when it does start, the idle is still gone. If I let it stall and then wait approximately 15 to 20 seconds, without touching the gas pedal, it will start right up and idle smooth as the day it was new. It's very confusing. I will be tinkering with those adjustment screws tomorrow after changing out the filter. I will also get a better idea for how it acts when the motor is cold. Thanks for all the ideas guys. Saturday is still my goal. Rain ALL day today. :-(

Also attached are the two fuel filters I got. Notice one has three ports, two up top, one in the bottom. I'm pretty sure the one on my car right now only has two ports like the other pictured filter.

It's hard to say. It's not taking much throttle to make it happen. At what point would the secondary be beginning to open? In neutral just free revving? I free Rev the motor steadily with light throttle to about 2700 to 3k. It's smooth and then it'll bog for a moment and then go right back to running smooth. The very brief bog is important because it's only after that one brief bog that the idle is then gone. You can see and hear that happen the last two or three times I show the car having the problem towards the end of the video.

Last time I checked the timing it was spot on. That was about a year ago. The high draw noise you're talking about is the air sucking noise I described earlier right? I only really hear that noise when the car is struggling to idle. You're suggesting that I adjust the high idle choke screw while the car is struggling to idle? Just trying to keep a clear picture in my head and make sure I'm on the same page as anybody making suggestions. I'll be trying all this out tomorrow, including the filter replacements. I got two filters, one has only two ports on it, both at the top. Another has three. Two up top and one on the bottom. Ring a bell anybody? I don't remember what I put on the car, I'll see tomorrow.

Pain in the arse screw in the front. Have never touched the one in the back. Never even knew about it to be honest.

Looks to be in great shape. High mileage definitely. Not that these motors aren't good for it. inquire about last time timing belts and pulleys were done, water pump, etc. Front end, ball joints, all that stuff mentioned previously. If any of those things need attention use that as a driving point to bring the price down. I could see $1,000 not being a bad price for that car. Naturally it'd be better at a lower price, but it sounds like there are slim pickings right now.

LOL didn't even notice it! Good eye!

I've set the idle high. Right now in the video when the car idles at about 1100, that's it idling at its set idle speed. Carb is fully stock. Tape on EGR (good eye) is just from when the light came on as scheduled at 50k miles. Just haven't gotten around to getting under the dash to reset it. Fuel filter(s) are waiting for me at advanced. It's pouring out right now though...

Rust you're on the west coast?

You're talking when I peek down the carb? That's either time. When it is exhibiting the problem though, but still barely idling, I hear the carb sucking in a lot of air. Got 2 fuel filters waiting for me at advanced auto when I get out of work. I've replaced the filter that's just after the fuel pump before, where is this other filter they're giving me? I know the spfi cars have one at the fire wall but pretty sure my carbie doesn't. Is there one on a fuel line by the carb?

Bridge stones.

My personal experience with dealer parts people from dealers in jersey, Manhattan, and Staten island has all been the same. Very pleasant to begin with, but as soon as they find out I'm looking for parts for a car they've never heard of, and there is no information in the computer, and they have to go find, dig up, and look through a big old dusty book (wtf is a book?) ... That's when they put on their pissy pants. Every. Time.