l75eya

If I could EJ it by Saturday, believe me, I would lol B-)

Looking straight down the carb I only see fuel when I punch the throttle, and it's just a good, strong squirt. When warmed up the choke is WIDE open, I can not move it by hand, though I'm assuming that's normal. The charcoal can, that's the big black thing bracketed in on the far left of the engine bay, right? Three or four vac lines coming out the top, one venting to atmosphere at bottom? I'll try taking off those lines one by one after work today.

I should have been clearer, wasn't literally out of gas, but low. Though I should mention I did run it out if gas this past winter. About two months ago. I will try and get myself a new filter tomorrow. I've sprayed carb cleaner around and revs change when I spray around back of carb. I can't see why though other than maybe my afterburn valve has a cracked hose. It's been that way for awhile now though. I can't find any other vacuum problems. And that still wouldn't explain the symptoms going away after turning the engine off for 15 seconds.. Thanks for the ideas fellas. I'm really hoping to get this sorted by Saturday and I'm clueless lol

How can I check that it is venting properly and to check the needle and seat, those are internal parts requiring disassembly, correct? And the fuel pump is a stock pump. I have no reason to think it's ever been replaced so I'm pretty sure it's the original. I changed the fuel filter 3 to 4 years ago. About 25k miles on it. I almost always use premium (93) gas. The tank was empty, I put 10 bucks regular (87) in. I drove 1 mile to my father's house with no problem. Parked the car. About an hour or two later I got in, set the choke (half throttle press) before starting, started with no problem and went to normal cold idle. While letting it warm up it bogged and then died. About 1 minute after starting. Ever since then I've had this problem. Since then I've put 20 bucks off brand name premium gas in, ran the sh.. Out of it on the highway up to 90mph, and I've pushed it well past red line hoping to blow something clogged out. No effect. Occasionally while driving city idle would return but only momentarily. What's really getting me is how it "resets" after shutting the car off for a moment, only to return one the throttle hits the trigger point.

Ea82 stock carb It's not the wires or the plugs or the cap or anything ignition related. I'm going to attach a video of the problem. The first 4 minutes are kinda pointless, I was trying to get it to exhibit the problems but it wasn't cooperating completely. From 4 minutes onward is pretty to the point. I thank any and all of you in advance for watching and offering any help and apologize for the length of the video. To best explain, the car will start and idle fine. When I go for a drive, by the end of the first block my idle is gone. If I let the car sit a bit, it starts back up as if there is no issue. It's only when the throttle gets to a certain point that it triggers the idle to disappear. Shutting her down and waiting 10 or 20 seconds and it starts up and idles smooth. Rinse. Repeat. Frustration. Any questions I will be glad to answer. There is a Subaru meet at the pine barrens this week end I'm really hoping to make it to but this problem persisting will make that pretty impossible. Oh also there is some cursing of frustration in the video. Just saying. Idle problems:

I don't think you should run your motor without that in place.

Oil filter maybe. Or the pump itself perhaps.

Not really though, so long as we're not talking about replacing the compressor itself. You can convert the system to use modern refrigerant, and most times the only problem with the system will be leaky o-rings at the couplers. Put in new rings and you should be good. Electrical problems with the system are easily resolved at the harness behind the glove box. If you find a couple cars post them up here and we'll share our thoughts on them

Oh and also, personally, if never pay more than 1500 for one in good shape with low miles. Both of mine I got for less than 1200. One I've driven across the country (twice), the other I took to Canada and back. Expect about 25 - 30 ish mpg highway.

Find one that doesn't leak oil, or doesn't leak much at least. Put a new timing belt kit in, new water pump, new oil pump, new distributor cap, wires, plugs, new radiator hoses, get a spare distributor and a spare alternator and fuel pump to keep just in case. Put a new battery in it. Replace axles if they click, check ball joints out, make sure wheel bearings are good. After all this, you should be gold. If you can do all this work yourself, except maybe the wheel bearings just cos it's a pain, it's not going to cost that much money. Also put new diff fluid in the rear and front and new gear oil in the trans. If you need a shop to do all this work, just forget about it lol. 5 speed with push button 4 wheel drive will work well for you. If you're doing major offroading (for a car anyway) get one with the dual range transmission. Personally I'd try to find a lower milage one. I own two and both of them had less than 55k on the clocks. Don't get a turbocharged motor; just more that can go wrong with it. Where are you located?

A couch to sleep on until I land a job and get my own place is all I'd need lol Love the mountains out there, the air, the people, the sense of adventure, and the ability to get parts for my GL! :-P

Flat out wrong. Do what others above have suggested. Best performance you're gonna get.

Been using cheap Walmart jackstands for close to ten years now. Same set. I've crawled under a 1970 Chevy nova sitting on those stands. A little nerve racking but I've never had a problem. Way I see it, so long as you set them right you'll be fine.

New pads on the front of the loyale. Free pads,courtesy of advanced autos guarantee of having brake pads for your car in stock. rented brake caliper tool from autozone, made job much much easier.

I've heard changing out the governor is as simple as removing a small cover plate and pulling out the gear and dropping in a new one. Also, a big reason for those to fail is not coming to a complete stop between shifting from drive and reverse and vice versa.

Took apart rear drum. Every spring broken, hold down pins missing, wheel cylinder piston snapped. Ordered from rockauto; set of Raybestos 4wd 7-3/32" shoes 3/4" bore wagon brake cylinders (it's my understanding that these will swap right in. Bigger than stock sedan brake cylinders. Please correct me if I'm wrong) set of Wagner springs and hold-down pins. And also 4 of those stupid windshield wiper adapters because I need them. Stupid windshield wiper arms. Now to mess with the idle.

I'm pretty sure I have a used oil pump laying around. It was replaced because of a Tick of Death on my Loyale. If you'd like, I can mail it to you and you can use it for parts. PM me if you're interested.

Is your timing spot on?

So a few weeks ago I installed a used rear axle on my 87 GL. Pass side. Ever since then, the brake shoes back there have been snagging and sticking. Obviously I must have messed something up, they were fine before. Didn't really have time to take a look at it though so I used the car sparingly and have just been driving the Loyale around. During one of my few drives in the GL to go put gas in it, I parked it at my father's house, whom I went to visit. When I went back to the car, I set the choke, started it up, and it started up fine, holding the rpms at about 2k on it's own with the choke set, like it always does. Then it stumbled once, came back up, stumbled again and stalled. Started it back up; stall. Started it back up, stall. Now it won't idle. So far I've put more gas in it thinking it was a bad gas issue. That didn't work. Then I took it on the highway and drove the piss out of it thinking maybe a little italian tune-up will get rid of whatever might be blocking fuel. no effect. When I'm on the gas, the car runs fine; it's only when I either don't have my foot on the gas at all, or if I'm barely applying any throttle, that the engine will start to sputter and kick and, if I don't give it some throttle, ultimately stall. The WEIRD thing about this, is that I've gotten it to idle again fine about 3 or 4 times by just revving the engine when it starts to stall. The few times this has worked, I'd rev the motor and then take my foot off the gas. A couple times after taking my foot off, the car would return to idle. Perfectly. As if nothing were wrong. Then I'd drive it a bit and eventually it would start to stall again. It *seems* to me that once it's idling fine again, it's only when I get deep in to the throttle that it "reverts" back to it's non-idle condition. So now I've got some carb cleaner I just picked up that I'm going to try shooting down the carb. On my way back from advanced auto the rear brake decided to completely lock up. Thankfully I was only about 4 blocks away from home but I had to drag the rear tire 4 blocks and restart the car every time it stalled. It was very sad. Like I said, really just putting this up here to vent my disbelief of the situation. Car was running perfectly fine a month ago. All these issues just completely out of the blue. That being said, I'm open to any input though, of course And to those of you who read through my little struggles, thanks for your time.

High revving motor at highway speeds with the 3 speed auto. 3900 rpms at 67ish. You'll get about 22 or so mpg on highway if it's in good running condition. Aside from it running high revs on the highway, there really are no other drawbacks. In my opinion. This coming from a 3 speed automatic Loyale owner that's put 50k on it in four years.

So with the push buttons anywhere but in the off position, with my fan selection on 1 my blower should be running.. Got it. Both my cars have no blower action at 1, I guess both have gone over the years.

Is "1" actually a fan speed? In both of my cars, the fan doesn't function until I move that selector to "2".

Personally done 100 mph on a 3at, and went 3 hours straight at over 90. Says a lot about both the transmission and the motor.

Rear axle possibly. Maybe something to do with the rear brakes. What kind of car? Details!

Push on the pedal harder. ;-)