l75eya

Enjoyed catching up on this saga. Glad you got the title. I thought this was going to turn into one of those stories there for a moment. Good idea in the t belts. However the motor is non interference though so it would never ruin anything but it would certainly be an inconvenience! Good luck with it!

It's in this thread that I ever heard the words "uncontrollable acceleration" used in relation to an ea71.

Make sure you hold that tube in place firmly as you tighten it's hold down bolt.

Oh, just saw the rest of the thread! Ha! I knew that had happened to me. I was also curious about how it didn't really do anything that adverse except a parasitic draw when I made that same mistake.

I seem to vaguely remember having the same thing happen to me and it turned out that I had connected the two wires in the plug backwards. Try switching them wires. To be clear this is the two in the plug, not the one ring connector that goes on the stud.

It's a learning curve. Once you have gotten all the different names and stuff down, you're good though. Essentially if you order suspension parts for an 86 Brat, you should always get what you're looking for with ea81 cars. Another trick is to make sure you study the OHV engine at parts stores as all usdm eai2 cars are ohc.

It's not actually the metal that warps and the term warped rotors is just a popularly accepted moniker, despite being misleading. In short what happens is that when your brake pads get extremely hot, they can actually transfer friction material from the pad itself and essentially weld it to the surface of the rotor. The vibration you get from 'warped' rotors is the uneven surface of the rotor due to various pad material that has transferred.

You may have an internally collapsing brake hose. Next time you have your front wheels in the air, pump the brakes a few times, with moderate to strong pressure, and then go check if you're front wheels are both still spinning free. If one of them is locked up you either have a bad brake caliper or an internally collapsed brake hose that's now acting like a check valve only allowing fluid to go one direction. To determine which is the issue there, all you have to do is crack open the bleeder valve on the caliper while the wheel is still locked up. With the bleeder open, if the wheel begins to spin freely again, it's the brake hose. If not, it's the caliper. Also make sure your emergency brake cables and linkage is good, and maybe try disconnecting the hill holder, if equipped.

Yeah, I don't think anything was messed with to change any dimensions. I have a feeling this is just a case of confusion; there are two completely different Subarus with the "GL" moniker in 88. One is the ea82 variant, in wagon, sedan, and 3-door variety, the other is the ea81 variant with an ea81 and the same components as the older (pre 85) gl, it was only available as a hatchback by this point. They use different length axles with the ea81 cars being the shorter ones.

That is beautiful. Question; does your hand hit the cup holder in 1st, 3rd, or 5th gears? I've been thinking about adding a cupholder to my Loyale as well but I'm thinking of just hole-sawing a hole right into my dashboard (the flat part, like in front of the clock) and putting a grommet around it to just drop a cup into that.

If you put your hand over the carburetor barrels and it sucks your hand down the rpms will never increase and the car will stall, because you have essentially blocked all airflow into the motor. Your timing should be at about 15* with the Weber. Is this a Weber with electric choke? Did you hook up the blue wire to it? You should still make sure to fully depress the accelerator to the floor once before starting the engine to set the choke. The filter not filling is fine, it doesn't use much fuel pressure.

Lmao! ALL that to hit 120hp. Coil on plug conversion, crank sensor, multi point fuel injection, ECU and fuel controllers, wow.

Yes, let us ponder the intricacies of these ideas you're putting forth. Rad you're completely correct. A nice modest shot of nitrous would give you a good little burst of power. And if you were looking for a small HP boost in an ea81, that would be ideal *but* Look at the cost of a bottle of nitrous lately? How about the lines to hook it all up to your Hitachi carburetor? Or the Carter Weber? OK, now that you're in the hole a good 6-700 dollars for your tepid shot of maybe an additional 10 horsepower, guess what? You better only hit that button for MAYBE 2 seconds at a time. Because you're running stock carbureted fuel pump. And there's no way it can keep feeding enough fuel to prevention your pistons from melting. So enjoy spending many many hundreds of dollars just so you can squirt your motor for a long enough time for it to accelerate from 65mph to 70 in the time it would have ordinarily gone from 65mph to 68.

If you're trying to maintain 75 mph on long steep hills, you need to look at throwing money at your transmission gearing. Or just treat it like an old ea motor and drop it in 3rd gear with your foot to the floor. I climb a steep mountain in my car and in the way to it in taching out 3rd and floored in 4th the whole way up. I'm doing about 70 when I crest it and typically peak at about 78 on the way.

The highlight of this whole post was seeing GD back on here. My .02 Ea81 makes what, 80hp on a good day? Ea82 makes say 85? 90 fuel injected? OK, so let's forget about the ea81 and focus on the most powerful non turbo ea variant. A mpfi ea82 might be making close to 100 horses The most power you're going to add without getting expensive is about 10 additional horsepower from doing simple intake and exhaust mods. OK you're at 110. There really is no more room for improvement without doing costly interior engine modifications now, and even then you're limited by what the stock ECU can handle. Those ea motors are very ingeniously built but they were designed to be economical and small, which they all are. They are not designed to create very much power, even in the most advanced form. Fast forward to 1995 and you have a motor that was influenced by the design of the ea engines but with more available technology, upstream and downstream oxygen sensors, camshaft phasers, computer designed pistons, etc, etc. You have a motor being run by an actual computer now, instead of a calculator. It's 1.8 (same displacement) version outputs 110hp stock. The 2.2 is in the 125hp ballpark. Stock. Unmodified. Couple that with a huge aftermarket source for performance upgrades. There is no good reason to say the EA motors can be just as good as the EJ motors because that simply is not true. If you like your ea motor, that's great! I love mine! It's runs like a sewing machine, starts every time, and gets decent gas mileage! It scoots my car to 60 in about 9 seconds and that's not soo bad either. What it is not, however, is anywhere near as efficient and powerful as a more modern, technologically advanced engine like the EJ series.

So I have an ej18 I've been resealing to drop into my Loyale. I just put the heads back on it a few weeks ago.. The shop I work at has a customer that has come in with their 96 legacy outback with an ej25. Blown headgaskets. So customer is going to replace the motor with an ej22. That means I've got a free ej25 sitting on the shop floor. This makes me excited. So I've read up quite a bit here. The common practice is to throw ej22 heads on the ej25 block for a high compression build. I also understand that the ej18 heads are practically identical to the ej22 heads, so with that understanding I should be able to put the ej18 heads on the ej25 block. Does the ej25 block have forged crank and rods like the ej18 does? And if not, what interest should I have in swapping cranks/rods/pistons as well? Oh boy.

Well, fairtax, speaking of that; My boss and the customer have decided to just yank the motor and replace it with an ej22. So I have a new question. This car is a 96 legacy outback wagon, with dual port exhaust and I'm assuming obd ii computer. I am obviously going to need a dual port 2.2 so that leaves me with the phase one ej22s, but were any of those obd ii? I'm wondering if I'm going to need a new ECU+harness or if there's a way to use the existing one. I understand the ej25 intake won't bolt onto an ej22?

This timing is a far cry from an ea82 you know what I mean?

No apologies necessary! Thank you for the tip, I'll triple check the timing next time I work on that car. That's exactly why I'm here, for help!

I needed a good laugh today. Nos on an ea81. That's good.

I don't know what your job situation is, I'm basing this solely on my experience, NJ has extremely high cost of living. Rent, etc. It's really difficult out there and that's why I moved to Pennsylvania. Thing about PA is work is a bit scarce in places. I'm in South PA.

The motor spins, I've rotated it many times but hand while I was checking the timing marks. Timing marks are all spot on (all friggin like 8 of them,jeeze!) Didn't get a chance to check with the scope yet, gotta push it into the shop first, been too cold out.

Thanks guys, I will read up on the torque bind issue. I do know this car was towed with the rear wheels on the ground for about 60 miles. I checked the TCM for codes with a snap on scan tool and it didn't list any current, pending, or history codes. The at temp light flashing did concern me but the fact that it doesn't stay illuminated confuses me. I'll look into looking for codes a different way than through the odb port. The rodent idea or either just the fact that wires could be messed up is something good to go on as well, due to the FWD socket being inoperable. I looked over the harnesses real quick when I had the car on the lift and didn't see anything but it was a quick look over. Good food for thought though, thank you

Won't run, but I'm going to turn it over but hand tomorrow and check it with the scope.

My niece has a 97 Impreza that is binding bad in turns. I'm much more of an old gen guy so I'm learning here (as well with the outback I posted about that's at the shop I work at and with the ej18 I'm resealing to put in my Loyale). So far I can give this information: No trans codes At temp light flashes at startup and then goes out (assuming this is normal?) Checked for power at the FWD fuse holder and one side is hot. When I place a fuse in the holder I then have no power across the fuse(at least not with a test light) When the car has bind in the drivetrain and you put it in park and shut it off, as soon as you shut off the engine the car will roll a little (as if the bind is being released I'm imagining) Trans fluid clean and full. Gear oil clean and full. I also read somewhere that the car should have a FWD light that comes on in the instrument panel, but with a flashlight I see no light like that, and nothing comes on when the fuse is in the FWD holder The fuse in the FWD holder has no effect. Car is still AWD locked. I'm welcome to all suggestions I would love to get this fixed. I was thinking maybe the clutch packs are shot but why does it seem to release when the car is shut off? Thanks in advance for all replies! This is a 97 ej22 single exhaust port motor, 4eat trans.