l75eya

As can be seen in the (evidently humungous) photograph above, when I use the power windows in the Loyale, lately, the rubber will get pulled downward with the glass, making the window motor strain. I've lightly oiled the window before and that worked for a good 2 months, but it's happening again. This happens to all the windows except the driver's side. Does anybody have a good suggestion on how to prevent this?

Get a timing belt kit. Includes new pulleys. Search for milesfox's art of Subaru maintenance videos on YouTube. Very clearly illustrates the whole belt replacement procedure. Even though you definitely need to replace those belts, if you for sh. And giggles want to verify, if you remove your distributer cap and watch the rotor underneath while you crank the engine, it should turn. If it doesn't, drivers side belt is screwed. You know it is already though.

check timing belts.

Throttle position sensor. Tps. Search about that. That's my guess.

OP if you could, let us know how all went and what you ordered. I'm looking to replace the rotors on my GL this summer and I'm interested in part #s =)

Thems are Jersey plates.

Well after looking, it's funny; I have a great picture of the bumper BEFORE I painted it...but not one real good one after! Well, here's what I got Before: After: (and these are all quite some time after)

To be honest, i just scuffed up my bumpers with sandpaper and rattle canned them and they actually came out well. 2 years later! I'll try and dig up some pictures.

Haha! Just like my 4wd. Got it fixed right *after* the last big snowstorm.

Ha ha here i am in the future and i can NOT get the pass. Side brake caliper to compress at all. I've spun it a good 8 entire rotations clockwise and it hasn't moved in at all. Beautiful day to do the brakes shot because of this stupidity. Had to call it quits after getting a headache from my blood pressure boiling. Maybe next weekend with the actual crappy tool to do it with it'll get done.

I've been talking to Mo Verjee about that video. I asked about why it seems they were never really pushing their ea82 past about 4k rpm, shifting low and generally being easy on the car. He told me that 2 days before the start of the event, they had seized the original motor. They purchased a brand new engine from Subaru that was crated, but never run in, and for this reason for the first 1,000 km of the event they were essentially breaking in the new engine, while competing! Also, the problem at the 10 min. mark was because a pipe to the turbo had broken (downpipe?) and essentially rendered the motor gutless so they had to keep slipping the clutch from a stop to make it up the hill. Interesting stuff. And thank you for the information about draining and refilling the 3AT. Probably going to be getting around to that this spring at some point. How is the pan sealed, if I do drop it?

Above. It's hard to see in there, if you get a focused beam of light on it you'll see it. What you need to push on through that hole is towards the rear of the drum assembly. It's a 1/4" thick flat piece of metal about 2 inches long and rounded. All you need to do is push it toward the forward toward the drum and it releases the ratchet mechanism holding the shoes tight. I couldn't find it when I took my drums off either and I wound up just using a jaw set gear puller and pulling the drum off with that. Could have broken some springs doing it that way I'm sure, but it didn't.

Weather here isn't bad, it's the PEOPLE that make this area suck. Staten Island is entirely built on landfill. Highest cancer rate in the country. Fact.

Lots of elbow grease going on there. Considering you're running a 3at too, (our Loyale has one) have you ever flushed it and refilled? I'm sure the Loyale could use it, as it's the original fluid in there. Is there JUST trans fluid in there or is there gear oil anywhere too? Sorry, just thought maybe you'd have some insight. Mine is FWD though.

Yeah, that interior is going to look fresh when you have it all back together. Hope you take pics of that too!

I gotta move out there. Damn.

Good luck and keep asking as many questions as you need. We're here to help get you and your car back on the road. Ps: the rotor mentioned before that spins, its located under the distributor cap that all the spark plug wires connect to. The cap is either screwed on or has a clip holding it down. If you remove it you'll see the rotor. That spins when you crank the engine. If it doesn't, something is wrong.

To me, it sounds like the timing is off. Do you smell fuel? Do you have a way to check the timing?

Fuel injected or carburetor? If carb spray right into the carb, if fi. Spray into air intake. Clamp airbox closed before trying to start it just in case it backfires.

Check for spark. Lay a spark plug wire down by something metal, turn the key, watch for it to arc. If spark, check for fuel. Spray some starting fluid in there and see if it fires up briefly.

I wonder how far back it supports. It worked for my 87.

Looking good scooner! Great idea with the trim clips. If you have any extra i might be asking for them with the Bra lol

Looks like they have a couple new ones! Ive had mine for awhile. Saw an outback the other day said my 7th subaru!

That gurgling sound means you definitely have air in there. It's not going to stop until you fix the leak, ask me how i know; My loyale has had two small leaks in the cooling system for over a year now. When the air makes its way t through the cooling system my temp gauge will creep to 3/4 but i pay no mind to it because i know it's going to go back down. Either fix the leak and fill the cooling system properly (no air), or just deal with an occasionally hot engine. Make sure you keep it topped up.

I'd happily donate the entire assembly off my car if i could have yours. Let me know next time you find yourself by jersey