l75eya

Our numbers are all over the place. Wonder what gives. My GL runs immaculate, is a very low mileage motor (I *just* hit 78k), and only ever drinks premium (93 here). I power-shifted it through the gears keeping my foot firmly to the floor on the gas in between throws. Very minimal wheel-spin when I dropped the clutch in first because 80 horsepower. And I got 22 seconds.... OP claimed over 30 seconds. Reasons? Granny shifting? How did advancing the timing change his time so much? Is there that big a difference? I'm running stock timing. 8* I think. This could get interesting.

Nope. Ea82 ecu is not that smart.

12 seconds?! Wow. How feasible would it be to drop an ej in a just? Thing would be a rocket!

I've got a couple on here somewhere. I'll take another next time I use it.

My d/r 4wd carb does it in 22 seconds power shifting through the gears. The spfi 2wd 3at Loyale does it in 14

Just pop some vins around and call it a day. Any lawyers ask and I never said those words. Or those.

Agreed. Not time to worry yet. Replace as mentioned above and if, after replacing those things, you're still having trouble, *then* I'd worry a little. So far so good though. Keep us posted! Nice to hear you've had your car since new, is it up in the member's rides section at all?

Changing from fuel injection to carburetors doesn't affect the aspiration of the motor. There's still a turbocharger involved.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121174-93-loyale-automatic-transmission-3at-wont-shift/ http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/Transmission/Governor/ATgovenorclean.htm

Any junkyards around you? Its not that expensive a part to grab from a junkyard and its relatively straightforward to replace. Search these forums for the words applecore 3at governer gear. Is your trans def. A 3 speed not the 4 some gl10s had?

Definitely a pro-maxima alt swap guy here. Great little mod that will negate any future potential voltage problems you may encounter. Also great work and great pictures. I can only hope things go as smoothly for me as they did for you (minus broken studs ) when I tackle all this work myself. Great stuff here.

Definitely take the advice about trying other keys. If you have any old keys to old subarus you used to have, or any friends that have old subarus, try their keys. Try them well, too. It's not so much turning pressure on the key as it is giving it a turn in one position (ie fully inserted) and then backing it out just a hair, twisting it backward and forward. You really have to play with them but chances are you'll find one that will turn. The key for my GL works in my gf's Loyale (on the doors, the trunk, and the ignition. Not the glove box) but I have to work it a little bit before it will work. About the locksmiths, as previously mentioned, you have to find a very old-school and experienced locksmith. Impressioning keys is basically an art-form and it is a dying one. There aren't many locksmiths that can do it anymore, but if you keep digging, you'll probably find one. As far as the price range mentioned above, things must be waaaaaaaaaaay different out west. We would charge $100 + to impression a cylinder like that. Sorry to hear about the crappy situation. Good luck with it!

Ohhhhhhhhhhhh man. Subscribed already. Nice convertible. It's a shame it'll be going to 5 lug, namely because those rims are b-e-autiful!

To add to the discussion above, I also replaced my cat with a straight pipe and put a magna flow @ the rear. It has a nice warble to it now but it is a touch loud. I don't set off car alarms but I do make them chirp. I love it.

Depending on what it's sitting on, I'd try to drive it out, too. That, however, is a pretty funny picture lol.

That trim around the rear window on that black wagon just above....that thing is *awesome*.

The screws look to be run of the mill coarse thread screws. I'd use self tapping screws if I were you. You would probably be able to get away with using self tapping screws everywhere, but that's up to you. You're in the north-west and these cars were real popular out there, I wouldn't be surprised if you find a dealer with a mounting kit.

It came either from the factory, or the dealer like that. I can't say which with any certainty. All I know is I'm the 2nd owner, and the guy before me didn't put it on lol

Just documenting for Rugby and any others who may find it useful some pictures of the installed luggage rack. Photos; These three screws are all you use to hold it down on the ends. The fine thread screw (far right) is used on the rear-most hole in the trunk. It goes in to a metal stud which I will show a picture of below. The two coarse threads go straight in to/through the sheet-metal. Rear-most hole has a stud installed. Forward most hole (below) straight in to metal. Small gob of silicone around it. Because some of the metal inside the trunk is double-walled, you can't see 90 percent of the screws driven through it. Instead you only see two, from the two outer - inside strips. They are capped with rubber. Rubber removed. Last but not least, the best way I see for lining up all the strips is seen below The center strip seems to be perfectly centered with the Subaru logo. Eye the rest out from there. The two outers that attach to the wing on the back as you can see attach pretty close to the edges of the trunk. Hope these are helpful!

Dibs!

Got a couple skateboards?

Was your 87 GL carbureted? I've read that the fuel lines on carb'd cars need to be upgraded when you switch to SPFI as the fuel injector requires a higher amount of PSI than the carb'd fuel pumps and lines can supply. Nobody has mentioned the fuel pump yet. Did you fuel pump give up the ghost? Check your fuel filters? Just some thoughts.

I think silverback nailed it. Ever had the car where you are now before? Sounds just like what happened to my gl when I drove across the country. Up in the mountains of the Midwest my car couldn't breathe and I had like no power.

Typically we refer to the body line under the doors as rocker panels. I know not the genius behind this, so I'll just say its Latin.

djellum, gonna take that advice. Car runs great and always has, so I may as well not mess with anything. If it ain't broke don't fix it, right? I do have one broken T fitting on the vacuum lines though, right behind the driver's side of the carb, one of the lines going back to a small black circular plastic piece with another line going to it. I'll get around to replacing that when I get a chance. I think it might be part of the EGR system, but I'm not sure Got all the bypass hoses replaced and the 90. So far so good. Def not headgaskets. Thankfully haha. And yeah, people weren't following too closely behind me when that was occurring. I was hoping not to get pulled over, it was pretty bad.