l75eya

So my 87 carb'd GL has had cooling system issues since I got it. Due to an old clogged radiator. couple weeks ago I broke some of the fins on that old radiator and it started leaking. This was my GL's first cooling system leak. Got around to replacing the radiator while on a trip in Pennsylvania. I noticed along the drive that when the system was topped up with coolant I would have James Bond types of smoke (steam) clouds coming out of the back of the car on the highway. That's no good, so I replaced the radiator while I was there. Problem solved right? No. On the drive back to Jersey I still had occasional giant clouds of smoke out the back of the car on the highway. WTF right? Car stayed cool on the highway, got hot on local roads. Got the car home, haven't touched it in a week till now. Dug in and found that one of the bypass hoses had ruptured. It was leaking coolant on to the intake manifold and it would pool and eventually spill over right on to the exhaust. There's my steam out the back of the car. Documenting this for anybody searching issues like that. Steam out the back of your car and you're sure your headgaskets are okay? Chances are it's one of the small bypass hoses. The one that ruptured was the one coming from the thermostat housing. I've got replacement hoses for that particular hose, as well as another bypass hose that runs from above the water pump and wraps back and down just behind the driver's side of the Craptachi. I'm also replacing that small 90 * hose that comes from the top of the water-pump as well. I do have a question though; considering I have my air-box off and all these vacuum lines exposed, I've been trying to find GD's guide on what I can get rid of and cap off. Can anybody help me out there? It's just the stock Hitachi on an EA82. Thanks in advance. I HATE cooling system problems. Ugh.

If it's too high, just kick it down.

Yeah, that's only if you ditch the white plastic bucket the stockers are attached to though. Stuck up is better than stuck down lol

Make sure fronts aren't too deep or you'll hit the speaker with the window when you roll it down, that's if you ditch the plastic cover for bigger ones.

New radiator in the GL. 100 bucks I didn't have to begin with. Grrrrr.

Wanna trade me for a nice sedan? haha. Looks like you made a good choice.

Still have quite a shimmy. Bumping for ideas

If your sedan is mechanically and structurally sound, I'd hang on to it. RX's are pretty rare. 4 door RX's are even more far and few between..My .02

By twist you mean push on one side pull on the other right? No abnormal play there. Tie rods nice and firm, ball joints also. No wheel bearing slop. Everything is good. Makes no sense :/

Ben (93 spfi auto fwd) had a bad drivers side axle. Rebuilt an old one I recently replaced on my GL and swapped that in. I've got a left/right wobble in the steering wheel now. Anybody got any ideas? Key points; My GL did not exhibit this wobble when this axle was being used. Ball joints and tie rods/ends were replaced a year ago. They are still in good condition. I matched tire pressure on every corner to 30 psi. Wobble still there but a little less evident. This is a low speed wobble. Haven't been on the highway yet to see higher speeds. Steering wheel stops wobbling under heavy braking. Car tracks straight. Idk! I'm lost on this. I'm thinking either my alignment is off or the axle is causing it. Fix one thing and something else happens just to keep me on my toes, oh Subarus lol Thanks for any ideas. Happy Christmas folks!

Rebuilt old driver's side axle from my GL to put on the Loyale. Followed Numbchux guide in the repair section. ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/96433-axle-rebuild/ ) Got everything nice and clean; (inner) Put some good Lithium grease in there. (outer) Followed JesZek's write-up on pro-longing axle life. ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/114267-advice-for-longer-cv-joints-life/ ) Used zip-ties. These are good, high quality zip-ties. They're rated for up to 250 lbs. Industrial stuff. I felt like I couldn't quite get it zipped tightly enough in my opinion. While I was installing the axle I caught the edge of the outer cup on something and the bigger end of the boot just popped right off. I cut off that zip tie (one in the photo above actually) and put a new one. Pulled that sucker as tight as I could with a pair of pliers. Definitely tighter; hope it stays. Think I'll go for the metal straps next-time though. No more clicking yay! Salt wreaked havoc on the old one. (torn boots). Was clicking while driving in a straight line. Accelerating from a stop while the wheel was turned sounded like the axle was about to explode. Much much better now.

Try running a couple days with core bypassed.

The ones under the battery tray are a real bitch to get to. Have fun lol

Clutch may just feel different to you because its mechanical (cables) and not hydraulic like newer cars.

I've only ever high centered on dirt. Not snow. And I've plowed through some pretty tall piles of snow. 3 feet at least. On all weather tires.

I couldn't put a price on it, to be honest. I grabbed it from a friends shop, the Tempo was just there for parts. You can grab it from basically any vehicle with a vacuum operated EGR valve, just trace the vacuum line from the EGR valve back and you'll eventually get to the solenoid. All solenoids work pretty much the same way so they're pretty much all interchangeable. I remember reading elsewhere on here somebody grabbed theirs from a Cadillac Fleetwood.

Technically a 3at could hit 125? Lol wow. I've done 100 - 102 mph on the 3at and that was intense. The valves may float over 8k but the engine is gasping for air over 6500 so in my humble opinion I think the maximum speed you'd be able to hit would be about 105...110 tops. Who wants to try!? Lol

What's this now? Does this only apply to a specific era series engine?

+1. I replaced my solenoid with one I snagged out of a ford tempo.

Seafoamed! Heard much about the stuff, never actually tried the stuff. The stuff works. Did all but eliminate a 3/4 go pedal stumbly fall on its face kinda scenario.. Oil change on both cars. Fixed trim on Loyale...egr solenoid from a tempo went in, check engine light out (win!) Flushed heater core, much better heat now. Topped strans fluid. Oh yeah! Sea foam DEF made a difference as the Loyale peeled out in 2nd gear while climbing a hill. Hill that I have climbed countless times and always go up at WOT. Never did that before. Didn't. Chirp them, no, actually broke one completely loose. I let it spin for awhile (whole hill. Laughing all the way up) Loyale is automatic BTW.

This is on my brother's 93 Impreza L. EJ18, FWD 5 speed. All original. These are hundreds of thousands of miles of it being beaten, also. Very rough miles, usually carrying around an extra 1,000 lbs in gear and with a major front main seal leak for over 50,000 miles now. This car has been run with no oil, it's been run with transmission fluid in the crank-case, diesel engine NYC bus oil, all of the old oil out of my subarus, gear oil, etc. Any type of oil you name has pretty much probably been in the crank-case of this motor. And it purrs like a kitten. Truly incredible.

I repeat, power seatbelt control unit is in the trunk.

Wagon or sedan? I know for the sedan its in the trunk.

I have those same pioneers in the front doors of my gl.

It hits harder than the ghetto.