l75eya

Like miles says above, the car want really designed for higher speeds, but it's definitely capable of them. I assure you they can go faster than what you think. The only reason it wouldn't be able to its if it's not running well. Check your timing, give it a tune up or at least new spark plugs. Check and change your fuel filters. And about the swap, the 3 speed auto is all mechanically operated, while the 4 speed had electronic components and that is why it would be more work to install. The 5 speed are just like your 3 auto in that they too are all mechanical. If you want to do the swap because you just want to, by all means do so, if it's just because of the reasons you mentioned above, the transmission isn't really your problem. For one or more reasons your car isn't producing the power it should be if you can't go over 75. Especially downhill.

Honestly, running it at high revs like that is a non issue, unless you're worried about fuel consumption. This issue has been discussed beeper if you'd like to search in it. They'll hold 4k rams all day without a complaint, and 4k is 68. Top speed of 72? I've hit 100 in one of them. Push the pedal further down . Very hard to find the 4 speed autos. 5 speed swap is a better choice.

You guys seem to know transmissions well, and I don't mean to thread jack but I gotta ask; I've got 75k on a dual range 5 speed. 1st 2nd and 3rd all engage fine but while driving in those gears there's a rattling, spinning sound kind of like a bad bearing sound. If I push in the clutch while rolling in these gears it still makes the sound. If I pop it in neutral and hold the clutch in, no noise. If I'm on level ground and not moving and I let the clutch out in neutral, there's noise, the revs drop (a little), and the car will actually move very slightly forward. 4th and 5th are fine. Sorry to jump in with a different topic, but I really hope I can get some good input on it.

Wow, that's definitely out of the ordinary! And awesome! I'd also like to know about the details for all the self work.

I don't know, something about having that name..on the windshield of all! Aside from my personal qualms, let me say that that is an awesome looking wagon. Very awesome.just get a Subaru sticker!

Lol! That sucks about the tire mishap. Exhaust too. I see you're up to 78k. I'm catching up to you though, just pulled a500 mile trip in mine, I'm half way to 76k now. I like your run down with the pictures and all. What's it time for I wonder?

What's with the sticker on the windshield?!

Does this noise only occur when you are applying the brakes? Also, this may seem like an odd question, but do you happen to notice it occur more when it's more humid and/or raining outside?

Thanks and yeah, it was just confusion. All good now though and learned something new! I'm going to replace that filter tomorrow, or add it, depending on current conditions. And now the OP can see that ppl on the USMB actually reach agreements over disagreements and don't resort to making fun of each others moms and will now stay haha! Thanks for the info!

When you've got a chance could you please share here or PM me the location of the other filter? I would like to replace mine.

And don't worry, not trying to upstage you by any means, there's no denying you've gone way deeper into these cars than me. That being said though, I personally feel that belittling me wasn't quite the called for response. I'm here to learn from people such as yourself, and to help those I can. That's all I was trying to do above. Nothing more / less.

Pm replied. Was a complete misunderstanding, had no idea you meant hood and the blinker fluid just added to my confusion. To be clear now though, are there two fuel filters? Sorry for the confusion, as stated; complete misunderstanding

Get a good fab guy. Somebody you know does quality work or somebody who vouches for him. If it's through a friend you can probably get the work done for cheap/free depending. That car is too nice to part out or junk IMO.

I'm finding conflicting information about any other fuel filters on OHC carbureted EA82's. This thread, which garnered little attention, has a few replies denying the existence of any other fuel filter for that engine/setup aside from the one in line from the pump. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/89641-2-fuel-filters-in-85-gl-carbd-where-is-2nd/?do=findComment&comment=752816 What's the story here? *edit* confirming there is only ONE fuel filter based on general consensus. Here's another thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/12218-does-ea82-carbed-have-two-fuel-filtersnow-fuel-pump-question/

You're hurting my brain. Blinker fluid reservoir? Windshield washer reservoir? Blinker relay? I'm not sly as a fox my friend. Gonna hunt the search bar for a bit.

Thanks for the correction. I meant to say water pump is barely off center.

Filter under the dash? Could you elaborate? I never knew that and I would like to change mine.

Oil pump us barely off center. Overheating? If anything they tend to run on the cool side. Throw a weber on it for more pickup.

Is your alternator on the outside of the engine, or is it nestled in between the compressor and the power steering?

Check that the throttle cable linkage isn't hung up anywhere. If this car is carburetor it's a bit more difficult to find the cable underneath the air-box, but keep looking and you'll find it. Once you find it, give it a couple yanks. See if the car revs up more by doing that than it does with the pedal (keep somebody nearby when you do it just in case the throttle gets stuck and it does rev up, and doesn't want to stop) Stupid question but I gotta ask because we all make stupid mistakes sometimes; There's nothing obstructing the gas pedal's travel right? No rolled up floor mat, can, garbage, etc?

You're really going to need some pictures to get some opinions on it. I don't think anything is beyond repair really, you just gotta have the money and somebody with the skill to do it. On my way out to Pennsylvania this weekend just to get a bit of cancer cut out of my framerail in the front and patched up.

Our 93 loyale calls for the 175's, IIRC. I do know for a fact it calls for 28 psi front and back. I run them with 30. Car rolls a slight bit better. Stiffer over bumps however. I wouldn't exceed the maximum rating on the tire, no matter what the vehicle manufacturer calls for.

A good, hard kick. From what I understand, you're trying to get the bottom part of the strut assembly to line up with the hole on top of the steering knuckle (the whole hub assembly). If this is what you're trying to accomplish, I've been in the same predicament. I find it's best to get both the bottom of the strut and that hole in the knuckle at 45 degree angles to eachother bowing outward toward you if you're sitting facing the side of the car. Then, and I've done this every time I had to get it back in there, I plomp down on my rump roast, brace myself good, and give it a good hard swift kick inward. Usually takes two or three tries. Typically gets it to the point where it's like 90 percent lined up and then I can give it a bit of a nudge to the left or right that pops it all in to place. That's how I've gotten it done anyhow. *edit* noticed you're working on a lifted rig. Although the same general principle applies, I imagine there might be a bit more tension there than with a stock set-up and it might require harder kicking. Kicking solves many things. Even getting my headlight to come back on.

This 2000 mile trip wouldn't happen to be to Nevada would it? Also sweet go! Love the 3doors.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a384/l75eya/IMG_20130810_172244_zps524a84b7.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a384/l75eya/IMG_20130810_172002_zps1581ad67.jpg Thanks for the reassurances. Im hoping I can find somebody to help me get it fixed. If anybody knows anybody that might be relatively close to me, please let me know.