l75eya

I'd do about $2000 for that GL-10. Personally. And that's only if I *really* wanted it.

Rear pass. side. You can see the reflection of the light on the frame. That's brake fluid. Investigated and found The leak. Seems the brake line ruptured inside that mount holding it to the vehicle. This is the brake line that goes from the pass. rear tire to This. It's the brake line far right, top half. Anybody got a suggestion/lead on a pre-fit brake line? Or will one have to be made? I'm under the impression that this alone could be causing his brake issues. Brake issues are: Soft pedal that builds pressure if pumped but loses it quickly. Braking is still possible but not very effective. This is the *only* part of the braking system that appeared to leak. MC dry, all other lines dry. Thoughts? Suggestions? Jokes? =P

If possible as a side-note to this topic, does having a dys/nonfunctional solenoid affect the vehicle's performance in any way? Or should I butt out and start searching?

I had a similar issue that I could not resolve. I had switched power (on the wrong wire, don't remember which) but no constant on anything. I wound up just running a new wire and throwing a fusible link on it.

Ding Ding! lol bratman has a solenoid for me though, of unknown condition. Hope it works!

Good bits of info there. Glen's story reminds me a bit of when I got my GL. 2 or 3 years ago now (I don't remember); When I drove the car off the used car lot, the odometer read 46,xxx miles. This was an 87 GL that only had 46k back in 2011ish. She sat for awhile. I did the most intelligent thing a person can do when getting a used vehicle that has sat; I proceeded to do absolutely nothing to it at all (except a new driver's side axle), loaded it with people and cargo (over 1,000 lbs worth) and drove it 7,000 miles across the country and back. Somehow, amazingly, she got me and my friends and family through that entire trip without so much as a single problem, save for a nearly blown out tire from a pothole somewhere in Utah. After the trip though (in fact 2 days after safely getting back home) the bearings in the water pump said "NO MORE" and they fell out and left the clutch fan flopping around. That would have sucked to have happened in Colorado! But she got us there and back! Also, after giving her a tune up and an oil change and a new water-pump, after it's SECOND trip across the country last year and back (this time over 9,500 miles), your advice about checking gear and differential fluid rings very somberly true. Shortly after returning from the second trip my transmission started making a rattling, nasty noise. I THEN changed to gear oil (why didn't I do it before this?!) and it was just...horrible. Brown, gooey, nasty, horrible stuff. Any way, back to the point; good advice from Mr. Loyale. Any car that has been sitting awhile should be reconditioned a bit. (I *still* haven't done my timing belts, currently at 79k knock on wood)

Haha, I've tried flooring it as I shift into 1st to see if that works, but there's still a gut wrenching lurch when it engages, so I no longer ever shift into first gear with the loyale unless I'm practically stationary. And about 15mph @ 4500 in first, I know the 5 speed has different gear ratios, but I've hit 40 in 1st gear with the GL. It was screaming at about 6,500 rpms or so, but it did it. I learned first-hand what everybody means about the intakes on these engines. There is just not enough air going to the engine at and above about 5800 rpms. From 3.5k and up it pulls swell, but at soon as it passes that 5, it's just making a lot of noise but not really gaining any more speed noticeably.

Ah, because of the forum change. Here ya go.

*edit* Nvm. I'll be sure to wear an anti-static wrist-strap when I handle motherboards, wear safety glasses when using a drill bit, and never go out during a thunder-storm. Sure something bad can happen, but 9 times out of 10, does it really? You're right though, should have given that heads up to the OP, my bad there. I'll stick my head back to the old gens where there aren't really any fancy 'lectronics to possibly hurt =P

Get your alternator tested. Or test it yourself. Or both. To test it yourself, start your engine, and then while the engine is running remove the negative battery terminal from your battery. If your engine starts to sputter or even stalls, you've definitely got a bad alternator.

I'll give you a head's up, Glen. I may be able to head out to you tomorrow, would you be able to PM me an address? Or text me? Plug into my GPS and see how far I'm going. First step is definitely to bleed the brakes, we're going to need brake fluid to do so.

I was assuming that your car was carbureted to begin with, Fuel injection is a different story. if you have fuel injection, you're pretty much as good as it can get to begin with. (This has been a debate in the past though) The altitude won't affect a fuel injected car.

It's cool to hear that thing while it's going 60-65 mph lol

JesZek is being modest. His car is definitely a Transformer. He just doesn't want anybody to know. =P

His car is an automatic. Got the pleasure to meet Glen himself and his GL recently. Very nice guy and definitely a nice wagon. From what he said, it doesn't seem like there are any major leaks, but the fact that he had to refill the brake fluid once or twice may indicate that there is a small leak somewhere, I'd be interested to know if you've noticed any leaks, Glen. Park the car somewhere dry, fill the resevoir, start the car up and pump the brakes a few times. Build up pressure, check near each wheel for any fluid and it'd be helpful if you can have someone watch the underside of the vehicle as you're pumping the brakes to see if there are any drops. If you need help bleeding the brakes, let me know. It does require two people, as mentioned earlier. Bump to the top!

Thanks for the heads-up. Have to get a stant thermostat and gasket soon.

There are a bunch of people from Colorado on here who will be more than happy to chime in when they see your post, but in my experience I drove across the country from new jersey with my GL *loaded* with people and stuff* It had trouble going over the mountains in Colorado, but it was able to do it. 3rd gear barely holding 45mph at some points with my foot firmly planted on the throttle. But. This was with my car absolutely loaded with weight. If you're driving with just yourself and some stuff, it should be okay. What I will suggest, however, is that you look into a common carburetor swap for your car. These aftermarket carburetors are Weber carbs and they can be set up for higher altitudes. Your car will probably be fine at those high altitudes, albeit a little more sluggish that it already is, but if you were to do the Weber swap that would more than likely take care of any issues, and actually give you a little more power actually. Use the search tool and you'll find a ton of information about Weber carburetors. And just hang out a bit and I'm sure a bunch more people will chime in here in this thread. Regards.

Better have a flat engine in it.

Wow...that there is a nice dashboard. Who's time machine did you use?

I am currently lobbying for somebody to just purchase and save this xt-6 as a whole after it's engine and/or dash is removed. That thing looks practically mint. Dirty, maybe, but mint. Don't get me wrong though, loving the idea of facing the challenge of getting a 2.7 in that GL, but damn that XT looks nice.

Is that a triumph t100 tiger getting rolled up on the bed?

Similar situation here with passenger side seat-belt. Mine will stop in the middle of it's travel though, for instance When exiting the vehicle, open the passenger door and the seat-belt will begin to move towards it's fully front position along the rail, to make exiting the vehicle easier. Occasionally it will just stop before it gets there at a random position and stay there until the door is closed, at which point it will go back to it's rear position. It also occasionally does what you describe, too. Not functioning at all. Opening the door and it remains fully to the rear position, making the person entering the vehicle have to sit down and then pull the belt around to the front of their chest. It's annoying. That being said, the seat belts are *supposed* to work like this; Ignition on, door closed: Seat-belt fully towards rear (to restrain) Ignition on, door open: Seat-belt fully towards front (to be out of the way) Ignition off, door closed; Seat-belt fully towards rear (to restrain) (After ignition has been "ON" and seat belts were previously already at a restrained position) Ignition off, door open; Seat-belt fully towards front (to be out of the way) Closing the door with the Seat-belt in it's fully forward position with the ignition off, it will remain there until the ignition is turned to 'on' The only time the seat-belt will stop when it is in between either the fully forward or fully rear positions is when it is in the process of moving towards one of those positions and you cut power to it (by turning the ignition to 'OFF' or disconnecting the battery; however even with the ignition in it's off position, no matter where along the rail the seat-belt stopped, when you open the door it should still go to the fully front position) So in my mind the OP's problem may very well be a sticky door switch. Two ways to figure that out; Does your dome light react to the door being opened/closed? Does the in-dash indicator for the corresponding door light up when it's opened/closed? and in my mind for my problem when the seat-belt doesn't move at all; same as above and/or possibly related to reasons why my seat-belt gets 'stuck' at random points and remains there ??? No clue really. Could be perhaps a foreign object in the way on the track could be a break in power to the actuator...haven't tested it. Any other ideas?

Wow, that's pretty strange. Are you able to hold the 4wd lever in it's FWD position to prevent it from "popping" into 4wd? Does it only do it when you're rolling or can you be sitting stationary and just turn the steering wheel and recreate it? Maybe your car is just telling you it wants to see some dirt.

lol! The beater thing; that's never going to die down now =P

GL wagon looks SWEET with the XT front clip.