l75eya

I've been wondering if he's on the board. He has a GL wagon, I'm pretty sure. Also, hopefully Jalopnik doesn't crash our forums lol

Personally, I'd do $2800 for that car.

That xt-6 looks nice, what's wrong with it?

Keep a cat in your car. =P That really sucks you had to pull the WHOLE dash apart. Wow. I can just imagine how pissed you were

Wow, dumb criminals. I find it unnerving that I can get into my locked car in less than 2 minutes. This guy probably stood there for a good five minutes hacking away at your door handle. Also if you have a nice stereo, it should have a detachable faceplate. DETACH it! lol Sorry about your door handle. Oh and just lightly pry away the door car around it's edges. It has clips that will pop out. After they're all off you can reach in and unplug the wiring harness for the power window. Power door lock is all internal to the door. it could be helpful to pop off the plastic trim piece behind the door handle. And you have to take the arm rest off before anything else.

This is a good place. When we mention GD around here we're talking about the user GeneralDisorder. He's a bit of a go-to-guy of sorts. Up at the top there in the search box if you search his name, and then after you get results you'll see on the left hand side a way to sort it by member. Sort it that way and you'll see his s/n. From there you can pull up all his posts, all his threads, etc, etc.

Yes. Usually only a few blocks, maybe 3 miles at most. The Loyale is primarily used to scoot around town. New PCV valve around 10k ago. Will check it out. Was also an aftermarket one and not OEM. Thanks for the idea.

Thanks for the reassurance. Was hoping it was something along those lines in my head. Had a VERY slight amount of ...milk looking swirls on the dipstick that I tried to get a pic of but that wasn't happening. Hoping it was just the look of new oil mixing with old oil from just topping it up. Guess I'll know sooner or later, still running fine though, and no bubbles in the coolant.

Gorgeous car!

I think the sputtering when it does start may be do to it being a little flooded from the previous crank-no start scenario. Just my guess.

Live and learn!! It was George Harrison that said "With every mistake, we must surely be learning".

New oil pump fixed the ticking on my EA82 as well. Count me in there. Also, This should be stickied

Yes, GR/2s. Good shocks.

I'll admit when I'm mistaken and I should take care to notice what exactly it is I am answering when I give an answer. I was talking specifically about the transmissions themselves and not the differentials. To be honest, I wasn't even aware that the automatic transmissions contain both atf and gear oil when they are fwd only. My mistake, I edited my first post to reflect. rdweninger; most everybody is pointing you towards gear oil for the diff and if that is what the majority says I would definitely go with it. They are much more of the 'resident' members than me lol

Wow, what a fine example of an all original, well maintained old BRAT. Quick question, in the 2nd picture from the bottom, what is that adjustment that can be made for summer/winter? (with the arrows)

Imprezas are definitely a nice breed of Subaru. Always liked them, even if you can tell interior quality took a little bit of a dive from the EA series vehicles (and I thought they were pretty barebones to begin with!)

I'm going to have to pull my drum off back there and see if it's the same thing. The noise comes and goes so I'm really thinking it's not a u-joint. I did, however, try applying the brakes while the noise was occuring and heard no change, so there's that, too. Hoping the weather brightens up a bit here soon. I've been putting off a lot of maintainence because it's just been so cold and stormy out lately.

If ever in doubt, go by what the factory service manual says or a call to subaru might help clear it up (though any information regarding our cars from a dealership really does seem to be becoming quite scarce)

Are you in 4wd or fwd? It's normal for the light to do all sorts of crazy things if it's connection is loose, which yours most probably is.

*edit* I may have not conveyed what I meant to say here properly so I'll fix that for future reference Automatics get atf Standards get Gear oil I'm talking specifically about the transmissions. Not the differentials. My apologies for any confusion.

I second KYBs. Great shocks, decent prices. Got mine at rockauto but I've heard of people searching amazon and getting them even cheaper.

Might want to hit the bolts with pb-blaster or wd-40 first. I had two snap on me (one each seat) and I was going easy on them.

Edit* just noticed you already hit up the post for the NOS FF-1 tail-light in the classifieds. Well played sir. (I had posted a link to it here)

I was curious why there were so many responses to such a simple question. Should have known though.