l75eya

Thought of a couple more things: I'm pretty sure this EJ trans is set up for a cable. I'll have to look. Can I use my existing EA clutch cable? Is the shift linkage going to line up in the interior properly? Getting my ducks in a row, so to speak.Trying to anyway.

I know there is very very extensive ea-ej swap info on here, and I've read a lot of it, but the majority of which is people going ea82 to ej2.2 and using an adapter plate to also use their old ea transmission. That's not what I want to do and thus, I can't find the answer to my specific question. Background info: I picked up an early Impreza EJ18 motor AND it's FRONT wheel drive 5 speed transmission for $100. I'm not complaining. I'm prepping: From the ride to my garage To my place of work: And last but not least with it sitting under that black stripe on my loyale SO! That being said here's what I have: CAR: 1993 Subaru Loyale EA82 engine front wheel drive 5 speed trans PARTS: 1993 Subaru Impreza EJ18 1993 Subaru Impreza front wheel drive trans My big question is once I mount up the EJ motor to the slightly modified ea82 cradle and have the EJ trans bolted to the engine, are the axle stubs going to be lining up with my steering knuckles? I also understand that the early EJ fwd transmissions have 23 spline stubs, just like the non-turbo ea cars, does that mean I am going to be able to use my EA axles? Or do I have to get FWD impreza axles? Anybody know the differences in length on 23 spline EA axles and 23 spline fwd EJ axles? Those are my main questions. I am going to tear the motor down and build it up before I stuff it in the car. I'm open to suggestions on modifications while it is apart (pistons,cams, etc) Now I have to find a donor car for the wiring harness do I *need* a fwd impreza ECU and harness? can I use later model car harnesses? Convert it to obd II? etc etc Feed me knowledge! It's going to a good cause; yet ANOTHER EJ SWAP! (my first tho!)

Set up a crowd funding campaign for it and post a link here and see what happens.

You can't junk a car that you you across the country and back.

Indeed there were no 5 speed automatics. There were a handful of 4 speeds but they came mainly in GL10 models and the later year ones at that.

Anybody set up a gauge pod that looked...good? I'm planning on getting an EGT, boost, oil pressure, and temp gauge set up proper in the GL-10 (86 digi dash) and want to install something that looks...kinda correct. I'm going for gauges with similar amber colors as the digital display, and I'm trying to find something squared instead of rounded, but I'm up for ideas. There doesn't seem to be too many convenient mounting locations so it's probably going to have to be an under the ashtray or on the A-pillar kinda setup. on a side note, has anybody got a good idea of a the range (good - bad - you're melting the motor) range for exhaust gas temps?

Well, the GL-10 has been sitting for a bit as I garner some cash to do certain maintenance that really needs to be done before she can safely be driven around regularly. The radiator is the original, and it is falling apart. The brakes were shot. The oil needed changed desperately. There's more to the list, but today I got around to some of the rockauto stuff I've had laying about and got some installed, and changed the oil. Axle seals for all four wheels, inner and outer. Rotors front and back. Pads (front ones were WRONG!!!), new convex washers for each wheel. New PCV valve. I didn't do the axle seals yet, and the back rotors will have to wait for another day. As I was going over this car, I noticed so much shoddy mechanic work. Whoever used to maintain this car back in jersey was a complete spardnubbin. -The front axles are BOTH installed a tooth off center of the roll pin hole. spardnubbin's solution to not being able to install a roll pin because the axle was a tooth off? Shove a bolt in the pass side and snap the head off, and shove a phillips screwdriver in the driver's side. But wait! There's more - None of the balljoints, tie rod ends, OR AXLE NUTS had any cotter pins in them. -The oil pan has a huge dent in it from apparently being used as a jacking point. NO COTTER PIN! NO COTTER PIN!!! That's what was left of the front pads. This car is dirty. Eventually I will have all of those suspension components off the car and they will all be cleaned, brushed, cleaned, and painted. Gritty, nasty stuff. NO COTTER PIN!!!!! NONE!!! WTF! Brake components removed. Out with the old, in with the new! Every bolt I took out got brushed down and cleaned before going back in. I'm surprised the caliper bracket bolts didn't snap. Everything is back together now, and look what's in the axle nut! (And the ball joints and tie rod ends, not pictured!) Just gotta fill up the coolant with new, and finish the oil change and she's done getting worked on for the night. Soon will be a new radiator. Then maybe I'll get around to that intercooler piping.......

Wait a minute did I read that right? 55,000 miles in ONE year?

Pretty sure there's no set screw on these distributor rotors.

That was beautiful.

What exactly are you trying to do? Get better fuel economy? Remove the plastic body cladding (the black strips on the doors etc), lose the pass door mirror, remove the inner wheel liners, take the carpet and insulation out of the back, take out the rear seatbelts, remove the rear axles and reinstall just the stubs, lose the differential and driveshaft, cap the trans or swap in fwd trans, complete tune up, take off the muffler. Boom, 35-40mpg.

Wonder what ever came of this. I saw a picture earlier where the cluster was being tested, in one photo it did not display the "P R N D" for an auto trans and in the next it did. I'm wondering what needs to be done to toggle that display on and off as I will be swapping a 5 speed dual range into my auto gl-10 and it'd be great to turn that display off. Even cooler if anybody can point out how I'll hook up the 4wd and lo indicators as well!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158477-ea82-to-ej22-in-progress/?view=getnewpost

From everything I've heard I think that car is worth about $1,000 to $1,500 depending on rust. That's my .02

Low side should be around 30-40 psi. High should be around 2-300. No more than 350 except for maybe a short peak as it cycles.

for tires go to tirerack.com

I fixed the air suspension in my gl10. I was lucky though. It just needed the front two air lines reconnected.

Just walk away for a few days. Things work out. You'll get it. Reason I mentioned the i6 in the truck because changing the plugs on that motor is an absolute NIGHTMARE lol. I love spreading good news.

You can put regular gas shocks/struts in it. You should buy it. All you will have to do is replace those shocks, give it a tune up, clean it and drive it. The hardest thing to find (besides the air shocks) is the special power steering fluid they use. If you buy it and wind up not really being able to afford it you will have no problem selling it. Buy it.

Try just setting the weight of the down on it? Your not supposed to tighten the pinch bolt till it's back on the ground anyway. That's like the last step.

Just to chime in, these manual adjust setups were used all the way into the end of production in 94. They can be found on all factory 2wd vehicles.

So to sum it up, could be a stripped out hub in the front. Put it in 4wd if it's 4wd and it will move. Could be stuck between 4wd gears. Major sure the shifter is properly engaged in either fwd, 4wd, or 4lo. Could be the clutch. Could also just be your shifter linkage came loose.

Clearcoat.

Testing with a multimeter doesn't do much. It needs to be load tested. All the lamps illuminating is pretty much all the testing you need though, it's time for a replacement.

Mine