l75eya

You new to the GL/Loyale scene? Either way, welcome. I see you're in NY, I'm right by ya brother, across the river in Jersey. Your Loyale looks to be *exactly* the same as mine, except it sounds like yours is a 5 speed. Looks to be FWD by how long it sits. You're never going to hit anywhere near 130 horses at the wheel with that car, so get that idea out of your head lol. You have a SPFI 90 horsepower at the crank (new) Naturally Aspirated EA82 engine. It also looks like you have sagging rear springs in the back of your loyale the same way as mine. Do you bottom out when there's four or five people in the car? I get a lot of wheel-well rub, especially on the driver's side rear, when I'm loaded down. No good. lol Nice loyale! Nice low mileage too, if you take care of it, it will last a very long time. Got ours 2 years ago with 52k on it and we're up to 88k now and climbing daily. Btw, you should be able to maintain speed on anything but the steepest hills in 4th gear. You may have to put your foot to the floor, but it should do it. Only in Wyoming and over the rocky mountains have I ever had to drop down to 3rd to maintain highway speeds.

That front push bar...is awesome.

Now *that's* how you welcome a car in to the family . Good luck with the repairs. Does/did it have a skidplate?

Alternator on it's way out.

I normally get about 480 - 500 miles to a tank of gas in my 5 speed carb'd 87 sedan. That's steady 65-70 mph and on premium gas. On 87 octane (regular here) I just got 420 miles to a tank. My car needs a tune-up.

Disagree. Reason I hate HIDs is because they're so damn blinding.

Any issues with your T-belts? Last time you'd mentioned them, you'd done about 4k miles I believe without covers. I, too, have noticed how easy it is to drip oil on the belts when you're checking your oil level. I try to be very careful about it, but every now and then I still get a drop of oil on them, and I also read the same article you did about the belts and ANY contaminants making them basically garbage. I call the claims in that article garbage. 15,000k without covers now and plenty of drops of oil on the belt here and there, not to mention water from puddles and all sorts of stuff that most likely kicks up there while driving. Knock on wood, but my belts visually check out and they are nearing their scheduled replacement (12,000 left to get there)

It really creeps up on you, the attachment to these cars. Very unique kinda charm they have. Is the grill silver? I'd be interested pending what it would cost to ship to 07087. Would it fit in a USPS flat rate box maybe? Thanks for the offer.

Thanks for the advice. Keen observation about the bearings, they were replaced, but that was about 10,000 miles ago and the hub/axle/knuckle/washers/spacer/etc still was not working 100 percent. It's probably safe to assume they are starting to get pretty trashed through all the abuse they are taking. -I've got a lead on a steering knuckle -I've got feelers out to retroroo and local dealerships for the center piece axle -I'm going to check out some bearing suppliers for the 6207 bearings (that cheap I might get a couple sets and have them..just to have them) -I'm also going to tear in to it again and check out your suggestion of inspecting the splines in the hub..just to see how it looks. Thanks for that suggestion and for the tidbit about the knuckles being universal. After I made that statement and then took a gander at the pictures, I was second guessing that "certain"ty haha

If you're really stuck on the NAPA axles, I suggest your next new axle you take the boots off and buy quality boots like those that are listed in jeszek's write up http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118248 Re-grease and re-boot the NAPA axles with quality parts and see how long *those* last.

Greased and new spring washer on the hub in question (driver's front). Torqued that mother down as much as I could. 500 mile round-trip to PA and back, hub is all sloppy and loose again (I did get about 430 miles to a tank though!) =\ Going to call up a couple of dealerships to try and find the "Center Piece Axle" and if that doesn't work, will be contacting Retroroo to send me out a couple. Also have a lead on a steering knuckle out of a 93 Loyale for around $50. These are all interchangable, correct? 2wd 4wd Loyale GL The only thing I know for certain is that a turbo model's knuckle won't work.. Can't wait to get this fixed

It's become just as notoriously apparent that the gl and loyale cars have a bit of a spongy brake pedal feel. It's just a characteristic. You get used to it. (So long as it's safe. If you're hitting the brakes and your car is not stopping safely, that's another issue). I tried for a good month to get the brake pedal to feel firm in a 93 loyale and then just gave up. Brakes work fine.

I am sorry for your loss; it's real tough, sometimes, life. Condolences and thoughts are with you and yours.

That's what I did lol. If there's nothing around you, you can actually hear it click on, as well as see the electrical draw if you're idling as when the fan clicks on the idle will drop a little. Chances are if your cooling system is working well you're not going to get the engine hot enough to click that fan on unless you're in a warmer climate. 70 degree ambient temperature probably isn't going to let your engine get warm enough for the fan..

Okay, I've had enough popcorn now. Time to let the cat out of the bag.. It's not a Legacy lol

(Can't believe nobody did that yet...)

Got it. Thanks for the advice. For reference the explanation and part number of the center piece axle, or conical spacer as it also seems to be referred to, can be found here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99165&highlight=center+Piece+axle Going to see if any local dealerships have them in stock tomorrow. Thanks djellum! I'd have never known to question that ridge, really glad you pointed that out! Makes perfect sense now, hopefully maybe....JUST maybe.....it's that simple (Knock on wood)

Looks like your 5mph shock bumper needed to man-up a little. =P

Ben finally hit 100 MPH!!!!!!! It took 2 years (to achieve, not accelerate to) but he did it! At 6,000 RPMS too! haha :headbang:

Latest pictures after a bath Cleans up real well, she does. I *need* to get a grill. That missing piece is just way too distracting.. After the car wash I happened upon a bottle of Meguiars color restoration compound stuff, kinda similar to this type of stuff: The car is ..incredibly reflective. Will add pictures of that tomorrow. Maintenance wise, Margaret has had her first oil change under my ownership. It's 12,000 miles over-due and finally done. Mobil 1 oil + filter Also actively trying to resolve her front driver's bearing/hub issue.. New KYBs in the back too. Rides very nice now..

Oh! I should have mentioned, the pictures were taken while I was dis-assembling the hub. The washer you're talking about, you mean the beveled one, right? If that is the case, the replacement (new) washer I installed was clearly marked OUT on one side, and I installed it with the word facing outward (obviously). If that's what you're referring to, then that has been fixed. I would be ecstatic if that's what was causing all the problems, but I kinda doubt it = \

Since I've had the 87 GL, the driver's side front wheel bearings have been an issue. - -Wheel slop (tire off the ground, I have play in the hub. Tie rod = tight. Ball joint = tight. Grab wheel at top and bottom and the whole hub moves..) - -Grinding/squealing noises that alternate between occurring sometimes when there is load on the drivetrain (while accel/decel) and sometimes only while free wheeling/coasting in neutral (down a slight hill; between gear changes) - -intermittent clunks - -And this: Apologies for the large resolution, I wanted the deformation of the wheel bearing hub (top) to be clearly visible. I do not have much experience with wheel bearings..or the steering knuckle this one is fit in to. Just by the look of that, is it reason enough to judge the steering knuckle is warped/deformed in some way that would require me to replace it? That's one of my main concerns.. The other is that the whole assembly comes loose in time; I tighten down the axle nut and everything seems okay After some miles the axle nut is loose again and the whole assembly has play and the bearings make noise. Today I took the whole hub off (not the steering knuckle though. Ball joint was not being co-operative) I did a quick visual and noticed that 1.) The grease packed in the bearings looked pretty cooked and dirty. It was new 10,000 miles ago. 2.) There was a lot of red powdery dust everywhere. Kinda like rust, but I'm not sure if it is rust. 3.) The damage to the hub noted in the picture above When I re-assembled everything, I put on a new beveled washer and I cranked the axle nut down as tight as I could (standing/jumping on the wrench. I'm 140. Should be pretty tight) I also packed some fresh grease into the bearing as well as I could without removing the whole knuckle. I am contemplating trying out ordering a new washer, the one with the slit in it. GD has named that part many times but I forget what it is actually called at the moment, though I do know from his and others' explanations on here that the tolerance and importance of that piece being within spec is very important and could also lead to some of the issues I have if it is not. Here's a picture of the dust and that slit-ed-ed-ed washer Sorry for the lengthy read, just trying to be thorough in my explanation.. Trying to finally get one of these last few quirks taken care of and thanks for everyone's time!

My mistake, it was awhile ago. As a matter of fact, this car is the pedestal of mistake for me, as in that previously mentioned post (where I thought it was for sale) I also mistakenly called it a hatch. Your car is schooling me my friend lol I would love to hear it, I mean I watched the quick dyno vid, but it's gotta be so much different IRL. Going through the gears, no clutch slip....that's going to be wild. Amazing build you have here, and what an awesomely unique approach you've taken with it too!