l75eya

Ah, that was my first car. Burgundy 5 speed 93 altima SE. Factory spoiler, fog lights, stiffer suspension, SE specific bucket seats, rear disc brakes, moonroof. I liked that car quite a bit.

Jalopnik link (Don't get excited, it's just a picture and an article. No video =\ ) http://jalopnik.com/5915955/this-subaru-started-after-sitting-on-the-bottom-of-a-lake-for-three-months?tag=carcrashes

Checked through my old threads and found that I never did put the write up for the waterpump together. I've got the one from when I replaced my oil pump, though, and the pictures from it can be helpful so I'll provide a link here. Most of the disassembly for the oil pump is what you'd have to do for the waterpump anyway. The only difference is you have to dig a little deeper to do the oil pump. here's the pics and all that jazz http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128964 There might be some people on here that shun breaking away piece of the timing belt cover to get to one of the bolts for the waterpump, but it's either you do that, or you have to pull the crank pulley off to get the timing belt cover off and that's just more work. I carefully perforated the timing belt cover with a small drill bit around where I needed it to come off and the sliced through with a blade. It worked just fine and I've had no issues regarding it.

What kind of vehicle? EA82, 81? I've got a write up on here (possibly the one you found) and it seems pretty intense, but it's all fairly straightforward. I had to remove the alternator, get the A/C out of the way, pull the radiator and the electric fan with it, and the clutch fan, and you have to either break away a piece of the timing belt covers, or remove it completely. Because I didn't care about my A/C charge, I unhooked the lines to the condensor and pulled it out as well. Doing that makes the water pump much more accesible, but I'm pretty sure you can leave it in. Leaving it in is going to make the job a bit more challenging though. Got the power steering pump out of the way too. If you're going to dig in to the car that far, and your timing belts/tensioners haven't been replaced, it'd be a good time to do that as well. Might wanna do some investigating and try to see if it is indeed the waterpump or maybe just a hose leaking. All of these things were what had to be done to replace the waterpump on an EA82.

http://jalopnik.com/5905052/massive-rally-jumps-arent-just-for-euro-trash?tag=hoonoftheday That's fast...and far...all in one. Love the way that thing sounds as it blurbles off into the distance...quickly.

about why the gauge read the way it did #1 - I'm fairly certain that when there is an incredibly low amount of coolant in your system, your temp guage isn't going to read properly and #2 - (and this one I'm positive about through my own experience) EA82's do not run very hot. I had to run my Loyale without any cooling fans and with a massive coolant leak temporarily (about 2 weeks) and he just never would overheat. Only time he'd even come close to the 75 percent mark on the temp gauge was either sitting at a long traffic light, or parking, but as soon as I got moving again and air started passing, he'd cool right off again. My 2 pennies.

Wow, that would drive me crazy. Hope it's something simple!

Basically anything you try to put through the hole is going to be flimsy enough that it's going to bed while you work on torquing that bolt down. Box wrench on a bolt should work just fine. What's worse with putting something in one of the holes is that it could break and then fall in to the bellhousing. That's not good. Good luck

This is what happens when you take your compact SUV to the Nurburgring...and push it just a little too far... http://jalopnik.com/5900071/violent-suv-crash-video-shows-latest-victim-of-the-nurburgring

I spun the flywheel till I saw a bolt, and then I put a box wrench on the bolt, turned it till it hit the housing, and then wailed on the crank pulley bolt. Worked like a charm.

Yeah, if you could, let us know what the problem was for reference. Glad you got it sorted out (Or unshorted out rather =P ) Cheers!

You looked under the mat in the trunk? When you lift that mat up, what is directly behind your driver's side wheel well? The passanger side? Got a camera?

Thanks Jeszek for the detective work! Ha, I don't think I'll be going for MOOG ball-joints in the future. Even on their own web-site they don't list ball joints for our cars, so who knows what I got. They are much better than what is on the car, so they're going in, but they're not what I paid for, so that's the end of that. B&A's in the future.

How are you torquing it down? If you're just doing it by hand you really need a breaker bar and then I suggest you throw a foot long piece of PVC pipe over it or something to get some more leverage and just pull If it's an automatic make sure you take the little rubber cover off the bellhousing and put something on the flywheel to lock it, keep it from turning when you torque the crank pulley bolt.

That's the plan. It's much higher quality altogether and I'm having another identical sent. Rockauto told me to use the other one as a paper-weight.

in the trunk behind the driver's side wheel-well. Under the cardboard cover.

Just got off the phone with them. They sent out the wrong ball joint. They're shipping me a new one overnight, and don't even want the wrong one back. First time dealing with them concerning a semi-major order (struts, tie rods, balljoints) and they helped take care of that one mistake very quickly. I've heard of people on this board that have been dealing with them for years now and haven't had so much as one mishap, so I guess I just had a bit of bad luck, but I too am now sold on them. Great place.

Called up MOOG, the good for almost nothing I hate my job sounding guy on the other end confirmed that no version of the MOOG K9081 ball joint (later gl's loyales) came without a castellated nut... So that means my first experience with RockAuto is a fail. They sent me the wrong ball-joint. On the bright-side their customer service is proving to be very helpful and intuitive. They may have messed up on my struts too, but I've gotten the answer I needed about the balljoints. Thanks for the replies.

Speaking of linkedin, I just saw on MSN they had a massive password leak. May want to check out the article if you have an account Link: http://www.technolog.msnbc.msn.com/technology/technolog/linkedin-confirms-password-leak-eharmony-has-one-too-816238

I was throwing that idea around in my head. They do even have similar castings on their underside the entirely rubber booted on having "3F" on it and the exposed metal one having "Three (555) Five" on the bottom of it. The exposed metal one appears to be higher quality than the other one, having an actual castellated nut and cotter pin + hole opposed to the full rubber covered one that only has a plastic filled lock-nut. I'll see what some other people think and I'm definitely leaning towards calling up rockauto. Thanks Nipper!

PM sent. Thanks!

As I posted in the what have you done to your subaru thread, I'm preparing to do the front end on the Loyale. Was gonna go cheap, but read some things and decided to go for quality, thus, all the suspension and steering components I ordered are MOOG, and the struts are KYB's. Now about the ball-joints, I'm going to attach a couple photos but backstory: Ordered a quantity of 2 ball joints. Both having the same part number (Viewable in photos), which is all I could find listed, which makes me think the ball joints are identical on both left and right sides of the vehicle. When I checked them out, first thing throwing me off is the boxes are noticeably different. Second thing throwing me off is that the ball joints themselves are noticeably different from each-other. For these reasons, I've taken detailed pictures of them side by side and seek the board's advice. What's up with these and do I need to send them back? Still don't have all my parts so I'm not being held up but I would like to take care of this asap if I do indeed need to make some phone calls. Thanks in advance for the help fellas Hoping everything is OK as this is my first major experience with RockAuto Pictures: Even the hardware for each ball joint is different...? Thanks again for whoever takes a look.

There any chance you can snap a photo of the order of assembly for everything that goes on the axle stub before the castellated nut? Need to know in what order things go back on there now that I have the cone washer my car has been missing..

Haha, see mine get a little bit of both.

Ran out in the rain to take a look for you. Now I'm soaked. Didn't think it was raining that bad... haha no biggie The connector on round thing is for an oil pressure gauge. The other connector is for the dummy light.